What to check before buying 2nd hand car?

chrestomanci

I'm thinking of buying a 2003 car (two owners) from a dealer, and was wondering what things I should be checking. The dealer assures me that it has just had a full service and has passed its MOT - but I assume that all dealers would say this!

I've come across websites like mycarcheck.com - are these generally recommended, or should I steer clear?

If there are any other checks you would recommend (both website, and offline), I'd be most appreciative.

(Also - it's 90k miles. Would this put you off buying, or is this not a concern?)

forgotmyname

If you want an HPI check then get a proper one.
HPI, RAC or AA. Avoid cheap text checks etc.

Dont buy one of those on a 2003 plate, Especially with 90k on the clock.

Ejector seats stick, Or fail to open the roof so the passenger gets squished. Blood stains everywhere.
Machine guns were made in China and rust. Revolving numberplate has the same number on each side.

Bulletproof glass also made in China and is not bullet proof. Even Nerf darts penetrate.

chrestomanci

Thanks! Car is in really good condition so the 90k wouldn't bother me... Is that foolish?

mum2one

get a HPI check, - they can be around £25, you need to make sure theres no outstanding finance on it, or its been in any accidents.

Mileage wise - average mileage 10,000 per yr, 2003, - 9 yrs avergae 90,000 miles so thats about right.

I don't know if they still do it, but the AA use to do an independant check on a car - about £150.

xx

SLITHER99

mum2one wrote: »

get a HPI check, - they can be around £25, you need to make sure theres no outstanding finance on it, or its been in any accidents.

Mileage wise - average mileage 10,000 per yr, 2003, - 9 yrs avergae 90,000 miles so thats about right.

I don't know if they still do it, but the AA use to do an independant check on a car - about £150.

xx

£25? I thought you could get a good HPI for £3? Text check or whatever it's called?

chrestomanci

I thought so too, but the first reply said to avoid them? I'm not sure!

colino

I'm always curious about people buying from bona fide traders and then paying someone else a lot of extra cash to cover the things that the buyer presumably went to such a trader to avoid. RAC and AA are notoriously picky (and expensive) as they know to cover their backsides on every detail, but others? You do realise if you have paid an independent, third party to examine and approve your purchase, you very much weaken any subsequent claims you may have with the seller. All notion of you being a naive buyer go out of the window and it becomes more of a fight (if the trader is not on side) between you and your expert inspector.

chrestomanci

Thank you - that puts things into perspective.

I'm going for a second test drive later today to see how it feels and copes with higher speeds - then make my decision.

Daz2009

I always say to people who know nothing about cars to take someone who does with them to give it the once over.
Some faults that are obvious to someone who knows what he's looking for can easily be missed by those who don't.
Because of my background (bodywork) I look at stuff like panel gaps and mismatched colour that may well suggest the car has been in an accident or poorly repaired at some point.
Do all the electrics work ? Check them
Check the basics like oil and water for contamination but again if you don't know what you're looking for you're unlikely to pick up on any issues.
Take a friendly mechanic or get an independent check done

forgotmyname

Without knowing the exact make and model and exact engine. How will anyone know if 90,000 is OK or not?

Buy a 2L petrol or diesel Mondeo and it will easily do another 90,000.

But a cheap crap car and everyone will be amazed its made it that far.

chrestomanci

It was a Terios.

Decided against in the end as it was incredibly uncomfortable when driving at 60mph.

Back to the drawing board!