Ceiling dilema

Hello all - I'm hoping that you knowledgeable folks will be able to help me again.

(Its a 1950's semi) I've started stripped the paper from the ceiling in a bedroom, now the paper is off I can see cracks running along the edge of the boards (I assume) its about 1mm wide. The board also has a little bit of flex if I give it a push up.

As I can now see the whole of the upstairs has been boarded in one go - so it doesnt stop at the dividing walls. If I take the ceiling down it will mean that the adjacent rooms (1 of which I've decorated) ceilings will also come down.

Could I try and rescrew the boards to the joists - I've seen in a book using a screw and washers to hold the board? Then tape the cracks and skim the ceiling?

Or would it better to leave the existing ceiling up, but reboard underneath it?

thanks!

Comments

  • phill99
    phill99 Posts: 9,093 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts
    It's far simpler to overboard the ceiling. It's less dirty and is quicker. Then just skim over the new plasterboard.
    Eat vegetables and fear no creditors, rather than eat duck and hide.
  • evilgoose
    evilgoose Posts: 532 Forumite
    Thanks, Whats the best way to reboard? use 9mm boards and longer screws and just screw the board up onto the ceiling through existing board and into the joists?
  • tony6403
    tony6403 Posts: 1,257 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    evilgoose wrote: »
    Thanks, Whats the best way to reboard? use 9mm boards and longer screws and just screw the board up onto the ceiling through existing board and into the joists?

    Suggest 12mm boards - less likely to be any sagging. Not much difference in price. Yes use longer screws 3.5 x 60 should do it.
    Forgotten but not gone.
  • Furts
    Furts Posts: 4,474 Forumite
    tony6403 wrote: »
    Suggest 12mm boards - less likely to be any sagging. Not much difference in price. Yes use longer screws 3.5 x 60 should do it.

    Use bugle head plasterboard screws and the rule is they must bite into the timber by 25mm.

    12mm boards can be purchased cheaper than 9mm. Probably due to supply and demand, I guess, as there is not a great demand for 9mm these days. Of course, they are heavier to lift and fix.
  • keystone
    keystone Posts: 10,916 Forumite
    If its already boarded (albeit badly) rather than L&P why not just put a load more screws to fix the existing plasterboard tightly to the underside of the joists?

    Cheers
    The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has it's limits. - Einstein
  • evilgoose
    evilgoose Posts: 532 Forumite
    keystone wrote: »
    If its already boarded (albeit badly) rather than L&P why not just put a load more screws to fix the existing plasterboard tightly to the underside of the joists?

    Cheers

    Yes it's boarded (I'm guessing they're 30+ years old) and skimmed.

    Would you just use normal plasterboard screws?

    thanks,
  • keystone
    keystone Posts: 10,916 Forumite
    Yes like furts described. More screws the better and then reskim.

    Cheers
    The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has it's limits. - Einstein
  • vaio
    vaio Posts: 12,287 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    keystone wrote: »
    Yes like furts described. More screws the better and then reskim.

    Cheers

    or hopefully just fill the new screw holes & cracks
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