What would you Old Stylers do with my draughty door??

FatVonD

babyblooz wrote: »

If you just want to keep the draught out once you are in for the evening then just tape a wide piece of masking tape from top to bottom. It works a treat and its cheap. We once stayed in a lovely but draughty period house and this was fab for keeping the draught out on an evening.

This is a bloomin' brilliant idea and we've done it for the last couple of evenings (plus over the mortice key hole)so thank you! It works a treat on stopping the draught and the hallway is noticeably warmer than before.

I'm thinking now that I may put 3 or 4 cup hooks in the door frame at the top and sew some rings into a spare single duvet we have so we can hook it up in the evening but take it off and leave it folded in the utility room during the day. I'll let you all know if it works!

FatVonD

bluebag wrote: »

Getting the kids to pull it over when they come in is a problem of a different hue!

I'm hearing you! The draughty front door would probably go unnoticed if it weren't for my son forgetting to close the sitting room door every time he comes in :mad:

keet83

There was one in lidl's special offers not too long ago, try your local one and see if they still have it.. I think it was £3.99

RebeccaN

I had the same problem with the same constraints in the Autumn. I scoured energy saving web-sites to find companies than specialized in draught-proofing houses. A couple of men came out and nailed insulation around the outside of the door (I don't think that this would affect a sticking door) and would have put a brush on my letterbox but it was not a standard size. I have noticed a huge difference this winter, my hall is now warm!
I think that these companies mostly work for local authority housing but will do private housing. They said they would charge me about £40 but I am not sure I ever received the invoice.

beastly

If it is a wooden door: try a "victorian" curtain pole- it attaches to the door only, and raises the curtain from the floor as you open it.It is therefore only as thick at the bottoma s the door, plus the hem of the curtain. Not very expensive, perhaps £10-£15, & a good thick lined curtain from a charity shop.

Try & find "Atomic Strip", a copper strip that is sold in reels from hardware stores (try an old fashioned one), which is nailed to the inside of the frame, and then you run a pizza cutter or bluntish knife firmly down the marked line, which causes the outer 2/3rds of the copper to stand away from the door. It is thin stuff, but if the door sticks, use a wax crayon down the strip & sand off a bit from the door to remove the wax. if the copper strip starts, after years, to go flat, get the cutter out again.

I_Love_Shoes

Butterfly_Brain wrote: »

I would have one of these just pull back to open


http://www.amazon.co.uk/White-Single-Plastic-Thick-Panels/dp/B002D37XBQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1355331329&sr=8-1

How did you find this? Its no longer available on amazon and I dont know what its called! We could do with one

LittleBrownFrog

I would call it a 'concertina folding door' & google gives me a few options if I search for that.

waltergator

simply buy an 8ft x 4ft sheet of 4mm ply and cut it to fit so that it overlaps the frame on all 3 sides except the hinges, simples!
oh and obvioulsy youll have to fix it to the inside of the door, unless it opens outwards and then you'll have to do the opposite.
problems with the letterbox now? open another forum xx

DIYPRO_2

Hi
Having read the messages already posted to this thread, it seams to me that most 'solutions' being put forward, do not stop the draught from getting passed the door. If you look at the 1st picture solution - it shows a brush type strip applied across of bottom of the door on the inside; this is a very effective solution for the bottom of the door, if the door threshold / door bottom are well positioned. To seal the remaining 3 sides, this should be done on the outside, using a similar sealing strip but this time one that has a neoprene rubber strip (circular or flat blade profile) which is held in a plastic or aluminium fixing support strip. They are readily available from Wickes / B&Q and many other DIY stores as a complete Door Draught Proofing Kit.
To fit it:- Go outside and shut the door. Having cut the 'seal strips' to length, offer each length up against the closed door sides & top. Aattach the support side of each piece to the door frame such that the rubber seal presses against the face of the door. This system will accommodate for any 'bowing or twist' in the door. If you start the fix at one end of each length and pin or screw in position applying a little pressure against the face of the door - working along each length following the face of the door. Make sure that the complete length of the frame is covered and when finished check the door closes successfully with a 'firm' push. It may be necessary to adjust the position of the seal if draught persists - if the door catch is not positive enough, allowing door to 'rattle' in the lock; or on hinge side might be too tight, trapping the seal.