Storage Heater repair possible?

macman

Might just be the fuse in the FCU gone, you can check that yourself first if so, and save a call out charge for a 10p fuse.

keithbw

macman wrote: »

Might just be the fuse in the FCU gone, you can check that yourself first if so, and save a call out charge for a 10p fuse.

I replaced all three cartridge fuses in the fuse box last night without any success.
Is that what you mean by FCU?

macman

No, the FCU (fused connection unit) is the wall socket that each storage heater is connected into, assuming that each heater is hard wired in. It has a pull-out tray which holds the fuse.
If your CU (consumer unit) has a single dedicated circuit for the 3 heaters, I don't understand why you've changed 3 fuses -you are only interested in the one(s) wired to the storage heater circuit(s). And if the other two heaters are still functioning OK (and if on the same circuit) then the fuse covering that circuit cannot have blown.
You've got a fault on one heater, not on the circuit, so it must be a local issue to that heater: fuse, cabling, bi-metallic strip, or element.

keithbw

Only replaced all 3 because I had the fuses to hand and I couldnt identify which fuses belonged to which storage heater. I didnt realise there was another fuse in the wall socket, will have a look at that tonight. Thanks for the info.

macman

There is if it looks like this:
http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?q=fused+connection+unit+for+storage+heater&hl=en&safe=off&tbo=d&biw=1680&bih=876&tbm=isch&tbnid=MhEqfFyHzcaILM:&imgrefurl=http://www.diyfixit.co.uk/electrics/fused-connection-unit.html&docid=zH_5r_cnN4H0dM&imgurl=http://www.diyfixit.co.uk/images/stories/how_to/electrics/fused_connection_unit/securing_the_fused_connection_unit_back_to_the_wall_big.jpg&w=750&h=498&ei=2PHJUNTPK4PT0QWJrYHgBg&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=671&vpy=284&dur=4148&hovh=183&hovw=276&tx=183&ty=56&sig=113253419501583102571&page=1&tbnh=141&tbnw=263&start=0&ndsp=52&ved=1t:429,r:14,s:0,i:122
It is likely that each heater is on a separate radial circuit (so there might be 3 cartridge fuses covering the install), suggest you see what is marked on your CU and post a pic if necessary.
Anyway, you have already eliminated fuse failure at the CU.

keithbw

From memory it doesnt have a fuse tray, just a button and a little red light. Will have to doublecheck to make sure. Again thanks for your help. If I do need to call someone out to have a look at it would you just ring around local electricians? Not sure if storage heaters are there area of expertise.

Richie-from-the-Boro

Quick and Dirty is .. .. if not CU the next to eliminate is the 'fuselink'.

I'm sure keithbw knows already but make sure you isolate properly, these things, cartridge or otherwise are on a 20a ring and should be Yellow for recognition within the CU or FCU, they're not always colour coded in MCB's.

99% of sparky's will unfortunately be clueless unless you can find a 'corporation' local authority employed maintenance sparky. If you do find one for a bit of 'off the record' work keep his phone number and if it it the 'fuselink' :

- watch how he does it, it's easy, if you know how
- scrounge a couple of free spare fuselinks from him, they're expensive

penrhyn

Just found this lot on the interweb, know nothing about them, but I used to work in Bridgnorth years ago!

http://storageheaterrepairs.com/contact.php

keithbw

Update: No fuse in the FCU so opened up the front panel of the heater and it was clear to see the fuselink had blown so have ordered one and will be replacing over the weekend.
I did notice something odd in the FCU, there was no power at all between live and neutral but about 0.2 volts between live and earth. Is that normal?
Thanks for your help everyone.

grahamc2003

keithbw wrote: »

Update: No fuse in the FCU so opened up the front panel of the heater and it was clear to see the fuselink had blown so have ordered one and will be replacing over the weekend.
I did notice something odd in the FCU, there was no power at all between live and neutral but about 0.2 volts between live and earth. Is that normal?
Thanks for your help everyone.

If the thermal link has blown, then that is a symptom of another problem, possibly the thermostat not cutting the power when the temperature reaches its limit. Not really much use in fixing the thermal link without fixing the underlying cause - it'll probably just blow again (as you want it too!) if it overheats again.

I expect the thermal link is also dual protection (overheating and shorting), so you should check for both of those imo.