Air and noises in central heating

oldskoo1

Recently posted here to say my boiler only seems to run for about 5 mins before wanting a break. It gets to a point where it cycles every 2 mins to add heat. Still don't know if this is normal? Ideal classic ff380

Takes around 40-50mins to heat 210L tank from cold to 60c

Takes about an hour to raise house temp by 1c - so I don't think it's too far off, although doesn't seem right. Worried what will happen when it's -10c outside.

House is a 5 bed 3 storey with 20rads. Tank and pump on the middle floor, boiler downstairs. Boiler cycling aside, I seem to have air in the system. Boiler is making a trickling sound and I get a build up of air in the furthest rad every 2 weeks.

I'm pretty sure the air is caused by the pump being on max (3). With the pump being on the middle floor and having an unvented system with good mains pressure do I need it at 3? Considering the number of rads?

I'm hoping pump speed 2 will cure the air and stop the trvs whistling?

However, if its too slow on 2 for my set up wil this encourage the boiler the cycle even more? It's chicken and egg because the air could be the cause of the cycling.

Is pump speed 3 really needed? Also if I put it to 2 do I need to try and bleed the pump again and add more pressure back in via the loop?

Thanks

oldskoo1

To clarify my boiler cycling I.e. my boiler switching off after 2-5mins for a 1 min break is defiantly not due to overheat stat trip. Therefore I think the pump is pumping quick enough.

The boiler stops for some other reason. Wether this is normal.....

Afaik this ideal classic doesn't modulate gas flame so maybe that's why it cuts off. The first cut off from cold and the water is only luke warm which is why I think it's odd.

After about 15mins it does trip off when it reaches 77c - I know this because I can turn it up to 6 which is 82c and the boiler comes back on. But only for another minute or 2.

I'm really hoping its air locked and pump 2 and bleed will work. Haven't got 2k for a new boiler

macman

Why not turn the pump down to 1 and see? Bleed rads and pump, repressurise as required.

oldskoo1

I figured out that the people who installed the boiler connected the flow and return to the wrong ports on the top of the boiler!

Once that is sorted I hope all will be ok

Thanks

southcoastrgi

i wouldn't put any pump on no 1 let alone one with 20 rads, the pump won't be causing air to enter the system unless it's piped wrong & that's not the fault of the pump

oldskoo1

I ran the pump on 2 all day today for the first time. Furthest rad got plenty of heat and no noise so I reckon 2 is ok

It's just the flow and return are reversed I think