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Bathroom Tiles

Hi all,

We're looking at removing the carpet from the ensuite and the vinyl from the main bathroom.

We want to look at tiling the floor so that it has a more solid feel to it.

Looking here:
http://www.wickes.co.uk/tiles+floors/floor-tiles/icat/tiles/
it seems the 2 types of tiles to choose from are Porcelin and Granite floor tiles. Is this correct or can any of the tiles listed be used?

What do people recommend?

Also, I have been told to consider top of the range vinyl tiling like Kardean:
http://www.karndean.co.uk/en-gb/floors.aspx?link=ghfcta
What's people's view on that or should I just forget that?

Am I likely to encounter difficulties with tiling - e.g. the height might be a problem for the door.

Thanks.
«1

Comments

  • if it is a wooden floor at the moment you will need to fix wbp plywood on top of this first before you tile, you will need flexible adhesive suitable for the types of tiles (bagged not tubbed), ceramic will only need grouting, natural stone needs to be sealed at least twice & most natural stone tiles will need to be wet cut you won't cut them with a score & snap cutter.
    I'm only here while I wait for Corrie to start.

    You get no BS from me & if I think you are wrong I WILL tell you.
  • Sprigs
    Sprigs Posts: 9 Forumite
    edited 13 October 2012 at 1:57PM
    I tiled my floor (floorboards), pleased with the result. No UF Heating.
    After reading TilersForum posts chose Waterproof PlasterBoard - only need 6mm depth not 12+ they recommend for wbp Ply. (chose Hardiebacker due to sheet size fitting my dimensions better). 6mm made things much easier.
    Main issue: Toilets/pedestal basins usually sit on top of tiles - general agreement seems to be looks much better. This means raising fixtures, connections etc - no real worry for me as I was replacing both and retiling the walls. Had to drill new holes for the new fittings anyway. Outlets were no problem (flexible connections), pipework was replaced (plastic) so inputs fine. New bath fitted - tiles went under bath panel easy enough.
    Also had to remove door and plane it at the bottom. Needed a new transition strip between carpet and tiles but easy to find one that fit over minimal height increase. 1950's house so lots of preparation of floorboards - screwing down, filling in etc. Needed diamond tile drill bits (pipework, pedestal fixing) but cheap enough.
    Agree about need for bagged flex adhesive, also powdered grout. I chose Mapei for rep. and good price near me (Slough area) but other similar brands available. They also have good range of grout colours for nice effect. Got my ceramic tiles from Wickes (in a sale) because I really liked the look.
    Never considered Vinyl tiles.
  • cyclonebri1
    cyclonebri1 Posts: 12,827 Forumite
    edited 13 October 2012 at 2:12PM
    Use tiler backer board or similar if you go ceramic/stone/porcelain route. Stronger than 12mm ply and waterproof if sealed correctly.

    Unless you have something very thick on the floor at present you certainly will need to plane the door, but that should be the least of your problems.

    If I was doing this for myself I'd take the suite out and floor and tile the lot, but that's a lot of work and I know others would disagree. ;);)

    You will need some decent tools to do this correctly, tile saw, correct trowel for the adhesive used etc, not an easy project if you are considering diy, and from your original post maybe you are not that adept with tiling??
    I like the thanks button, but ,please, an I agree button.

    Will the grammar and spelling police respect I do make grammatical errors, and have carp spelling, no need to remind me.;)

    Always expect the unexpected:eek:and then you won't be dissapointed
  • Leif
    Leif Posts: 3,727 Forumite
    You should be able to tile if you are careful. I tried tiling for the first time recently, did a small floor with B&Q porcelain tiles (£10 a square meter), and it turned out well, better than my bathroom floor done by a pro (but not as good as my kitchen floor). I agree with cyclonebri1 that it is not an easy job, probably the hardest DIY job I have done. It was rather messy and it took me a long time. Next time I would buy a suction device to lift tiles, as once or twice I had not put down enough adhesive, and lifting a tile is tricky. I found the only way I could cut tiles cleanly was with a diamond saw, the cheapo Homebase one worked very well indeed. Make sure you buy decent adhesives and grout. I used Unibond, which is rubbish. It took a day to set whereas the packet said it is hard after 3 hours, rubbish.

    A bathroom will mean cutting a hole for the soil pipe, and maybe other pipes, and I have no idea if that is hard to do.

    You can trim a door with a power plane (takes cuts from each end), it does not take long, but careful you do not bang the architraves when taking it off, or putting it back. I'd recommend two people unless it is a light door.
    Warning: This forum may contain nuts.
  • cyclonebri1
    cyclonebri1 Posts: 12,827 Forumite
    Leif wrote: »
    You should be able to tile if you are careful. I tried tiling for the first time recently, did a small floor with B&Q porcelain tiles (£10 a square meter), and it turned out well, better than my bathroom floor done by a pro (but not as good as my kitchen floor). I agree with cyclonebri1 that it is not an easy job, probably the hardest DIY job I have done. It was rather messy and it took me a long time. Next time I would buy a suction device to lift tiles, as once or twice I had not put down enough adhesive, and lifting a tile is tricky. I found the only way I could cut tiles cleanly was with a diamond saw, the cheapo Homebase one worked very well indeed. Make sure you buy decent adhesives and grout. I used Unibond, which is rubbish. It took a day to set whereas the packet said it is hard after 3 hours, rubbish.

    A bathroom will mean cutting a hole for the soil pipe, and maybe other pipes, and I have no idea if that is hard to do.

    You can trim a door with a power plane (takes cuts from each end), it does not take long, but careful you do not bang the architraves when taking it off, or putting it back. I'd recommend two people unless it is a light door.

    Hmm Leif, I get your drift but a chisel under the edge of the tile breaks the suction without damaging the tile if you do it slowly

    Double disc suction grabs are available on ebay for under a tenner, but to be honest the money probably could be saved, :money:,;)

    It's another thread where we don't understand the OPs capability in diy matters, this isn't an easy place to start if you want a decent result op.
    I like the thanks button, but ,please, an I agree button.

    Will the grammar and spelling police respect I do make grammatical errors, and have carp spelling, no need to remind me.;)

    Always expect the unexpected:eek:and then you won't be dissapointed
  • Leif
    Leif Posts: 3,727 Forumite
    Hmm Leif, I get your drift but a chisel under the edge of the tile breaks the suction without damaging the tile if you do it slowly

    Double disc suction grabs are available on ebay for under a tenner, but to be honest the money probably could be saved, :money:,;)

    It's another thread where we don't understand the OPs capability in diy matters, this isn't an easy place to start if you want a decent result op.

    Indeed, not recommended as a first DIY job for someone who has never done handicrafts and/or DIY before. Most people I have worked with, software engineers and managers, do their own tiling, kitchens, bathrooms and so on. Being engineers, they are the kind of people who can think through a job beforehand, and work out what to do. It does need a practical mindset. Some people have that, not all do. I am always amazed when clever people tell me they never do DIY. Some even tell me they can't do it. Maybe there is 'clever' and 'can convince other people that they are clever, but reality intrudes when tested'. :D

    A suction device was recommended by a tiler. Is a chisel better?
    Warning: This forum may contain nuts.
  • keystone
    keystone Posts: 10,916 Forumite
    Leif wrote: »
    A suction device was recommended by a tiler. Is a chisel better?
    A suction device requires you to break the suction betwixt the tile and the addy all at the same time which with large format tiles is going to be challenging. A chisel used under the edge of the tile works fine because as you lift the tile you break the suction a little at a time from one edge. Oh and twist the chisel and as Cy suggests, slowly. For heavens sake don't try and use it as a lever 'cos it won't work.

    Having said that if you have an even bed of addy on a flat surface each tile can be laid first time every time with zero lippage.

    Cheers
    The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has it's limits. - Einstein
  • cyclonebri1
    cyclonebri1 Posts: 12,827 Forumite
    edited 14 October 2012 at 3:10PM
    Leif wrote: »
    Indeed, not recommended as a first DIY job for someone who has never done handicrafts and/or DIY before. Most people I have worked with, software engineers and managers, do their own tiling, kitchens, bathrooms and so on. Being engineers, they are the kind of people who can think through a job beforehand, and work out what to do. It does need a practical mindset. Some people have that, not all do. I am always amazed when clever people tell me they never do DIY. Some even tell me they can't do it. Maybe there is 'clever' and 'can convince other people that they are clever, but reality intrudes when tested'. :D

    A suction device was recommended by a tiler. Is a chisel better?

    Yes it is, it focuses the lift at a single point, and as said costs nothing. You simply have to apply a little force and wait for the suction to gradually give. A good 3" scraper is equally as effective.

    And as per your post, yes it is amazing how some brilliant folks have not the slightest practical ability, and that's without offence I hope.

    Me? I can do most everything well, some stuff very well, but stick a computer in front of me and I flip:eek::eek::eek:,

    The opposite side of the coin;);)

    Edited to say just read KS's post, and we seem to be on the same page, ;);)
    I like the thanks button, but ,please, an I agree button.

    Will the grammar and spelling police respect I do make grammatical errors, and have carp spelling, no need to remind me.;)

    Always expect the unexpected:eek:and then you won't be dissapointed
  • Leif
    Leif Posts: 3,727 Forumite
    keystone,cyclonebri1, cheers.
    keystone wrote: »
    For heavens sake don't try and use it as a lever 'cos it won't work.

    What you describe is using it as a lever, perhaps you mean prise it up gently, to allow the adhesive to part from the tile.
    keystone wrote: »
    Having said that if you have an even bed of addy on a flat surface each tile can be laid first time every time with zero lippage.

    That no doubt is the difference between an experienced tiler, and someone doing it first time. :) A tiler did my kitchen in one morning, tiled and grouted, 3.5m by 3m, 60cm by 60cm tiles, and a damned good job too. I won't say how long it took me to do my (small) porch. Ahem.
    Warning: This forum may contain nuts.
  • keystone
    keystone Posts: 10,916 Forumite
    Leif wrote: »
    What you describe is using it as a lever, perhaps you mean prise it up gently, to allow the adhesive to part from the tile.
    Poorly explained then - sorry. What I meant was insert flat edge of chisel under tile. Then twist chisel so that you lift the tile gently via the twisting motion rather than sticking the flat edge under and then just lifting up on the handle. The latter easily ends up with a chipped tile edge or at worst a broken tile. I've seen it done - no OK I confess I did it - many moons ago when I was a lot younger though. :)
    I won't say how long it took me to do my (small) porch. Ahem.
    Don't put yourself down. Everyone has to start off somewhere at sometime.

    Cheers
    The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has it's limits. - Einstein
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