2003 Corsa c heater number 1,2,3 not working but number 4 does

fonzyg50

Hi

I've spent 4 hours trying to figure out the reason
Why my heater only works on number 4. I checked the fuse, resistor and blower

I checked to see if it was the resistor but I checked it
With my test light and seems to be ok. All fuse intact.

I then disconnected the plug from the blower and use the
The test light and there's power from number 4 but no 1,2 or 3.

So I haven't got a clue

tedted

it is your resistor as on speed number 4 it is bypssed

fonzyg50

tedted wrote: »

it is your resistor as on speed number 4 it is bypssed

Hello
I've put my test light to the resistor and the lights came on when
I switch the heater controls from 1-3. It still has the fuse on top intact

hotterdog

+1 for the resistor, encountered this on a rover 25 and an old vauxhall

depending on location of motor might be a faff to replace the resistor

Strider590

Use a multi-meter, test the thermal fuse for conductivity with the resistor pack unplugged from the car. You can't test anything if it's plugged in, as you'll be measuring all sorts of other stuff too (not least the coils on the DC fan motor).

colino

The resistor pack is a very common fail and you'll get a replacement for around £20 on ebay.

paddedjohn

Try a new switch.

fonzyg50

hi everyone,

got this fix and it was the heater resistor

mobnspy

Unfortunately, i'm having almost the same problem, i have replace the resistor pack twice and the problem continues all the time! I have an Opel Corca C 1.2L automatic... After some minutes of working the blower in position 1,2 or 3, the resistor goes very hot and after that, smoke comes out from the ventilation system. Now, i have buy the 3rd resistor from Ebay and i try to place it again, to see if i will have the same issue! Yeap! Something else is my problem probably and i can't realise what! In position 4, the blower is working fine. Anybody knows something better than me? Is there anything else between controls, resistor and blower??? Perhaps the wires goes via the electronic brain of the car??? Regards

facade

sounds like the blower motor is partially seized, or is overloaded.

1) seized/faulty motor
You can remove it lieing upside down in the footwell if you take the glovebox out (RHD model)

On mine, all that air-con deodouriser spray collected in the bottom of the plastic blower case, so the motor bearing went rusty.

I managed to lubricate the bearing, and drilled a couple of holes in the lowest point of the plastic casing to let water out.

2 overloaded

In the Olden days I had an MG montego (lovely car, apart from The RUST)
Anyway the resiistors burnt out because one of the plastic levers on the air direction flaps inside the heater unit came off, and a flap stayed shut that should have opened, so there was not enough air coming out, and the motor overloaded, and there wasn't enough air to cool the resistor and it blew. (to fit a new one, the whole car had to come apart to split the heater casing, so I wired an external one under the bonnet.)

Check the air direction flaps work properly, the pollen filter is clear and there is nothing like dead leaves blocking the intake under the bonnet