Problems with hot water tank and overflow pipe

karlie88

Thanks for all the information.

keystone wrote: »

Break the overflow pipe at the T connector - put a bucket under it first.. Then you can easily see which one is overflowing.

Cheers

Break it? :eek: But how would I be able to fix it?

I assume you can just pull the plastic pipes from the plastic T-piece thingamajig? And then would it be just a matter of pushing them back in place?

keystone

karlie88 wrote: »

I assume you can just pull the plastic pipes from the plastic T-piece thingamajig? And then would it be just a matter of pushing them back in place?

Errm yes thats what I meant.

Cheers

Canucklehead

Hi.

What happens if the overflow is solvent weld?

OP.

All you need to do is look over the top of the cylinder and see if the level is up to the overflow. Not sure how much clearance there is over the top though, might need a torch and mirror.
There could be a lid as well, (there should be) a small nut in the middle will allow it to come off.

Your OP suggests the problem is the cylinder, as it happens when you have used/not used hot water.

A new ballvalve washer should cure the overflow.


I would say the large pipe is on the open vent from the boiler and is an attempt to stop a problem ,not sure what though.
pumping over? I guess you have a very low roof space.

GSR.

keystone

Polypropylene pushfit overflow pipe should not be solvent welded.

Don't know which one is overflowing yet.

You could be right about it being the vent. Thanks.

Cheers

Canucklehead

keystone;56367935]Polypropylene pushfit overflow pipe should not be solvent welded.

I know it won't melt. How do you know it's push fit?

Don't know which one is overflowing yet.

Water leaks from the overflow pipe when we haven't used any hot water in the household; timescale for this to happen is approx. 24 hours.

A clue.



You could be right about it being the vent. Thanks.

Cheers



GSR.

keystone

Canucklehead wrote: »

I know it won't melt. How do you know it's push fit?

'Cos if its standard polyprop overflow pipe its pushfit and you don't weld it. Whats this - some sort of test?

A clue

Clues at face value don't always necessarily yield the expected result. The flushvalve problem wasn't the flushvalve!

Cheers

Canucklehead

keystone wrote: »

Clues at face value don't always necessarily yield the expected result. The flushvalve problem wasn't the flushvalve!

Cheers

My posh looking toilet came from Ebay about 7 years ago and does look great, but now it seems to conitnually flush after you flush it once (the only way of stopping it is to run the shower for a minute after flushing, guess it starves it of water for long enough to not fill completely again)

I was told by my local plumb centre, that as its a non standard model (i dont know what make etc it is, nothnig written on it), that it wont be a standard size syphon, might this be true? I want to try and get a spare part for it, without havingot drain it completley and pull it away from the wall as its wall mounted

Can you get universal fill/syphon kits for toilets to repair them?
Cheers

Yes, you missed the clue there as well.


GSR

southcoastrgi

really heating vent with god knows what in the middle of it connected to hep20 pipe, two overflows connected together so no one knows which tank is leaking, a household that doesn't use any hotwater for at least 24hrs what kind of diy install is this

keystone

Canucklehead wrote: »

Yes, you missed the clue there as well.

Well actually Mr Clever Clogs I didn't. First question of Post Number 4 of that thread.

keystone wrote: »

So is it the inlet valve which is causing the problem by not shutting off and the internal overflow sending water down into the pan or is it the flush valve?

Bye