can i lift up the whole car with axle stands?

colino

It's really not for the novice and despite doing it in level concrete I've seen more than one mishap with a pro.
If you do go ahead, think too what job you are doing and if you are removing a heavy unit from one corner or one end of the car, how that is going to affect the stability of the car.

TrickyWicky

I've done it and the only thing I would say is this:

Axle stands need to go under something solid so you need to be careful that you jack the car up using something solid and leave enough space to fit an axle stand.

Also once you're done at the front or rear, lifting up the other end of the car will cause the end you've just done to move slightly. This means those axle stands will become unstable. As soon as you've placed your second set, you need to go back to the first set, lift the car very slightly and reposition them again.

Also those little 2T jacks that you get from argos / halfords / rac / aa for £20 aren't going to be great for this as they are not only weaker than workshop trolley jacks they also don't reach as high. You'll need to consider using some wooden blocks between the jack and the car to ensure you have plenty of lifting range.

If you do decide to do this, be really careful. 1 mishap / lack of concentration / c**k up and you could have a disaster on your hands.

SailorSam

paddedjohn wrote: »

I would have to disagree here, I'd say the 3 legged stands where more stable.

I agree a 3 leg stand is much more stable, imagine the way a 4 leg chair sometimes wobbles but a 3 leg milking stool will always find it's own level.
Although i'm sure the car would be safe on 4 stands i never do it myself. If i want the whole car that high i'll use 2 ramps and 2 stands. But 'cos i'm nervous driving up the ramps i usually jack the car up then push them under the wheels, then lower the car onto them. Of course you'll need a decent trolley jack.

arcon5

I wouldn't recommend jacking it at the seals either. Find a secure part of the chassis

Gloomendoom

londonTiger wrote: »

Doesn't the car get a bit unstable when you have the front on two axle stands and you're trying to get the 3rd on? Is it possible to do it with one jack or do you really need 2 jacks to get the last 2 axle stands on?

I have done this procedure many times and currently have a car sitting on four axle stands.

You need to make sure that the ground is level and capable off taking the weight. Tarmac may be a problem. You also need axle stands that are up to the job. Ideally all four should match but a matching pair at the front and another matching pair at the rear is will usually do just as well. You also need a jack. A big trolley jack is the easiest and safest as it can move towards the car as you jack it up rather than the car pulling the jack over or vice versa. You then jack the car up and place an axle stand underneath on its lowest setting. Move to the opposite side of the car and repeat. Then move to the other end of the car and do the same. Repeat lifting the front and then the rear as often as necessary adusting the stands up every time but in gentle stages otherwise you risk the whole lot tipping over.

You may need to use wooden blocks on top of the axle stands to spread the load and prevent damage to the car. Use your common sense when judging where to place the stands. e.g. not in the centre of the floor, in the middle of steering arms, driveshafts or the engine sump.

It can't be stressed too highly that this is only safe on hard, level ground using suitably (over) rated axle stands and jack. I went so far as to make my own matching set of four axle stands when I raised a Range Rover up like this because I couldn't find anything man enough and within my budget elsewhere.

Also remember, the higher you go, the more likely it is to fall over. Don't let your mates lean on the car while you are underneath!

forgotmyname

Jack on the seals? You mean sills? If thats where the jacking point is then no issue with that.

If the jack inserts into the sill though dont try jacking below it. Its only a skin and you will damage it. MOT testers dont like cars with damaged sills.

Blocks of wood on the stands is a big no. They are shaped to grip. A piece of wood can slip out. And the car can slide on it.

You need a decent sized 2 ton jack, Not the small 1ton ones or small ones rated at 2 tons. You want the bigger one. 3ft long & 10 inches..ish

I have confidence in mine to work under the car supported only by that. I always put a wheel under the car or tyre though just in case.
Thats only in an emergency though where i dont have the stands close by.

Joe_Horner

[QUOTE=forgotmyname;56276963
I have confidence in mine to work under the car supported only by that. I always put a wheel under the car or tyre though just in case.
Thats only in an emergency though where i dont have the stands close by.[/QUOTE]

That really is a big no-no even with industrial kit.

Even hydraulic ramps have a mechanical back-up because when a hydraulic seal fails it often does so with no warning, and will let the car down effectively in free-fall - you will NOT have time to get clear!

Daz2009

What car is it ?

rxbren

when your jacking the car up be carefull as the car will move a small amount away from you due to the way the trolley jack moves, there is a small possibility that the vehicle can move off/or tilt the axle stand opposite

CKhalvashi

spiro wrote: »

One way around this is to jack the car up about 5"s and put concrete blocks under the wheels, then put the jack on a concrete block and jack it up to axle stand height.

Concrete blocks can crumble, potentially leading to further damage and danger.

We've got some solid metal blocks that go under the cars for minor work; £62 for 2 from Halfords.

I don't know the official regulations, but they have been happy to accept a 3.5t Transit loaded to the limit.

CK