Rain Water Drainage

mikey72

Milk crates may not be strong enough, if there is weight bearing on the centre of them, as most of the support is designed into the corners.
Also check the plastic isn't a modern biodegrable type.
You don't want the garden sinking in a couple of years.

ed110220

Am i right in thinking that if you can dispose of rain water on your property you can get a reduction in your water bill as the water company then does not have to deal with it?

stef73

ed110220 wrote: »

Am i right in thinking that if you can dispose of rain water on your property you can get a reduction in your water bill as the water company then does not have to deal with it?

I cant as mine only serves the rear of the house united utilities only reduce on the whole house. I asked when we had to have a soakaway dug.

27col

ed110220 wrote: »

Am i right in thinking that if you can dispose of rain water on your property you can get a reduction in your water bill as the water company then does not have to deal with it?

Yes, that is correct. I recently had my sewage part of the water bill reduced when I remembered that all the rain water from the gutters went into soakaways.

blackshirtuk

You could use the breeze blocks to build "honeycombe" walls inside your hole, then cover the top with concrete reinforced with a mesh.

rxbren

cant use milk crates totally unsuitable there not designed to be used that way if you do dont expect it to last storm crates come in different strengths for where they are to be used and for what depths eg under a road, path or in a grassed areas

size of soakaway depends on how much water will be flowing to it youd need to work out how much water will be coming off all roofs from your guttering

needs to BE AT LEAST 5 METERS from any building

if you dig the soakaway you can always pour a couple of buckets of water into the hole and see if it filters away if the water dont go it wont work

dont fill around soakaway with sand you can always line bottom and the sides of the hole a PROPER geotextile not that woven weed fabric backfill with either proper drainage stone or rubble nothing with dust/small debris if anything when backfilled cover with geotextile and cover with 50-100mm concrete mesh optional but personally not really needed then top up with topsoil

dont lay slabs over mud it wont last

on joining the sewer main if your house is 1908 it may be a combined storm and foul water but new building work shouldnt connect to these im sure youd have to seek permission from waterboard

to be fair your probably better getting someone who knows what they are doing to have a look

southernsun

Thanks again for all the advice.

Got a builder coming out tomorrow to look at it and price up. Get the feeling it will be cheaper in the long run as I would be a bit out of my depth and probably end up doing an ineffective job.