Painting a radiator

rich_jtg

I've had no problems using satinwood paint in the past. You just need to make sure that the paint fully dries before using the radiator again otherwise it will yellow.

enya_3

Thanks everyone! I will try the Dulux Satinwood Brilliant White that I have used for the doors. I hope not to put the heating on for a while yet, so that might help with the yellowing risk. It saves me going out to buy eggshell or radiator paint - at even more cost!

Ms_Chocaholic

enya posts saying they want to use the satinwood paint they have; people offer their advice that it may yellow and several posters suggest it would be better to use eggshell, less likelihood of it yellow-ing, 12 posts later, enya says they are going to use the satinwood anyway.

I'm struggling to understand why advice was asked for.

dori2o

Chris-Home24 wrote: »

I always found when painting my own that it depends on what kind of paint is being used. Different kinds may need two coats where as others require only one. Also as spendaholic66 said, best to use a decent brush as rubbish ones will lose bits and your be picking them out for weeks after! You can actually get spiecally made radiator paint brushes which could always be an option.

Nah.... A good quality/tradesman 2" brush is more than adequate.

enya_3

In answer to Ms Chocaholic, who is upset that I didn't do what she said, here are extracts from the advice that was given:

• We used ordinary paint and it yellowed. We used radiator paint and were disappointed with the finish.
• I did mine with radiator paint okay it was cheap paint not well known make and that went yellow with a few months
• Mine was ok with Dulux once, I used a mini roller to get a smooth finish, no yellowing.
• We used a good quality rad paint, and it has stayed white.
• I used hammersmith (I think it was called that) radiator paint. It was expensive but worth it.
• Hammerite? TBH expensive radiator paint isn't necessary. Standard gloss is fine for the job but since VOC 2010 rules came in from the envirostasi in Brussels and manufacturers had to alter their recipes as a result spirit based white gloss yellows far too quickly
• I used Ronseal white one-coat radiator paint and was happy with the finish. 18 months on it's still bright white.
• I've had no problems using satinwood paint in the past.

I don't think that is a conclusive vote against using the satinwood - it means that different people have different experiences. I chose to take the cheap option (I already have satinwood and it saves me spending more money).
Thank you to everyone who shared their experience with me - it helped me choose, which was the purpose of the exercise.

Ben84

I've found it's important to sand very well and prime them first, or it will crack and blister. I've used normal gloss on them and if you use white it does seem to yellow after a few years, but it does stay put if you prepare well first. I mostly painted mine with colours however which don't show any yellowing, for example the hall radiators are red to match the paper.

Biggles

Over the years, we've always painted our radiators with the same paint (gloss, emulsion, eggshell, whatever) we were using elsewhere in the room and wanted them to blend in with.

The only time we had a problem was when we used very cheap 'own-brand' paint and didn't let it dry completely before putting hot water through the system again.

gibson123

enya perhaps if you asked how people prepared their radiators first you would get more consensus. I give mine a light sand, wash well with sugar-soap and dry thooroughly with kithch towels.

Leif

enya wrote: »

In answer to Ms Chocaholic, who is upset that I didn't do what she said, here are extracts from the advice that was given:

• We used ordinary paint and it yellowed. We used radiator paint and were disappointed with the finish.
• I did mine with radiator paint okay it was cheap paint not well known make and that went yellow with a few months
• Mine was ok with Dulux once, I used a mini roller to get a smooth finish, no yellowing.
• We used a good quality rad paint, and it has stayed white.
• I used hammersmith (I think it was called that) radiator paint. It was expensive but worth it.
• Hammerite? TBH expensive radiator paint isn't necessary. Standard gloss is fine for the job but since VOC 2010 rules came in from the envirostasi in Brussels and manufacturers had to alter their recipes as a result spirit based white gloss yellows far too quickly
• I used Ronseal white one-coat radiator paint and was happy with the finish. 18 months on it's still bright white.
• I've had no problems using satinwood paint in the past.

I don't think that is a conclusive vote against using the satinwood - it means that different people have different experiences. I chose to take the cheap option (I already have satinwood and it saves me spending more money).
Thank you to everyone who shared their experience with me - it helped me choose, which was the purpose of the exercise.

I'm surprised by some of the answers. For example, I wondered what eggshell paint was, and found both oil-based and acrylic (water based) versions. So which was it? And what is satinwood? I found oil and water based variants. Eh? The two forms will be completely different, although both will be liquid in the tin, and dry when painted in a thin layer onto a substrate.

Well the Dulux oil based satinwood yellows:

http://www.bbc.co.uk/blogs/watchdog/2012/03/dulux.html

I know that Dulux have been reformulating their paints, so the current version might be okay. Or maybe not.

There are at least 3 basic kinds of paint that are relevant: oil based, acrylic (water based) and polyurethane (water based). There are variants of oil based. Oil based usually (always?) yellow, but supposedly some such as International Cupboard Paint and Sikkens Satura either do not yellow, or yellow very slowly. In the case of the Sikkens, they do not use linseed oil, which causes or accelerates yellowing. I can confirm that a tin of Dulux oil based gloss I bought and applied went yellow in 4 weeks, but Sikkens Satura applied 1 year ago is still brilliant white. Not a scientific test.

Water based paints do not yellow, but they are harder to apply as they dry quicker and do not flow so well. You can add Floetrol to water based paint to delay the drying and help the flow, so you get a better finish. There is also wide variation between brands. I tried the Dulux one and hated it. I tried Ronseal Diamond white (polyurethane based), thought it was really good, but hard to apply. I suspect a pro could apply it and do a good job, and perhaps I could were I to try now as I am more experienced.

I suppose there is also the issue of which paints can withstand the thermal stresses of a radiator. At work we had some radiators repainted and within a short time the paint cracked.

One solution is to create a shortlist and buy a tins of each. Then paint some on a test surface, a bit of scrap metal say, and see what you think.

When people say "We were disappointed with the finish" that could be due to using a poor brush, or poor technique. Or poor paint. My first attempt at painting wood was a loft door. My kitchen fitter saw the result, and rightly indicated that it was not good. There is a way to paint to get a good finish. Google and YouTube will help, and also see 'laying off'. It worked for me.

Water based paints are easier when it comes to cleaning brushes. But Google brushmate! I prefer oil based paints, and I really like the Sikkens satin paint, a nice flat brilliant white, which is easy to apply. But tastes do differ.