Re-doing the front door

Yorkie1

Hi All

Thanks for the advice on the heat gun (it's down between the de walt and the bosch ... any final thoughts appreciated); here's the project on which I'd also value comments on my plans ...

My front door is painted in gloss. There are many layers on it, which are starting to peel to the bare wood when knocked:





Q1. I assume I need to strip it back to the bare wood and start again? The joiner 'mended' one bit (with wood filler and then repainted) which was lifting 2 years ago, and it's not lasted:



Q2. So, assuming the answer to Q1 is 'yes', the method? I would like to use the heat gun on the main parts of the wood away from the glass, and then will need an alternative method for the bits next to the glass as I've been advised that it's still risky to use the heat gun - even with the window deflector.



What would you suggest? I do have nitromors and protective gloves in the cupboard, although never used it before.

Q3. Paint. I have a Sandtex trade combined primer and undercoat for exterior wood. It suggests one coat of that, followed by 2 coats of gloss. Does that sound about right?

Thanks for any comments

cyclonebri1

Never done it myself but maybe this is a candidate for stripping, by which I mean the caustic soda solution or whatever the door strippers use.

Around here they would do it cheaper than you would pay for the stuff involved, let alone labour.

Prepare to be floored when you see the door without any protection tho', but that is a great shaped door, I'd want to save it too.

Yorkie1

Thanks for your reply. I'd thought about stripping, but my understanding (may not be right) was that it would take longer than the working day for it to be done - leaving the house insecure overnight at least?

phill99

I would use a heat gun for the main bits and use a chemical strip around the glass such as nitromors.

cyclonebri1

Yorkie1 wrote: »

Thanks for your reply. I'd thought about stripping, but my understanding (may not be right) was that it would take longer than the working day for it to be done - leaving the house insecure overnight at least?

Hmmm, didn;t see it from that aspect but to board it up for a day isn't difficult, :money:

Yorkie1

Thanks both, much appreciated.

Yorkie1

Okay, progress check and I'd appreciate some more comments, if possible please.

I've used a heat gun on most of the door; just a few bits round the edges to do (ran out of energy as the last bits were needing too much elbow grease).



Q1. Do you think I need to go back entirely to the bare wood throughout, or do you think the grey layer will be OK if left and subsequently just painted over? It's going to make the job much bigger if I need to use chemicals on that area as well as the mouldings.

Q2. Next step will be nitromors, I guess. Is there anything specific I need to know / avoid / do?

Q3. After I've done the paint removal, I'll need to fill any gaps. I have ronseal's multipurpose wood filler, which is suitable for interior and exterior use. Is this OK / the best thing to use?

This is the sort of gap, as well as the one at the bottom of the round window in my previous set of piccies:



Edit: Photobucket seems to be playing up; hopefully the piccies will work soon!

cyclonebri1

Don't see many problems there, and I honestly don't see a reason to strip much further on the flat areas, assuming all loose paint has been removed and it has flatted well, depend how much effort you are prepared to put I suppose.

I would remove the weatherboard and either clean that up separately or replace, it will give you a chance to address any issues at the very bottom of the door.

Considering the fact that material content of your little project is very low, I would get the best filler you can, go to a joinery specialist, not 1 of the major outlets and get an epoxy wood filler.

It's going to look fine.:T

Yorkie1

Thanks cyclonebri1

I ache all over and my feet hurt after spending all day removing the paint on the mouldings ... next time you suggest dipping the door, I'll go with that suggestion :eek:

Door is now drying off and I'll look out some wood filler tomorrow.

Yorkie1

Update. Grr. I'd just like to say that 'touch dry in 4-6 hours and recoatable in 16 hours' for the trade primer / undercoat is a LIE. More like 'still tacky in places after 16 hours' (obviously, particularly on the bits where the door is in contact with the frame and wasn't exposed to the open air overnight). :mad:

No top coat glossing for me today. :mad:

Will just have to paint the fence instead :j

Yorkie1

And here is the finished product!



Just noticed a gap in the wood behind the door handle which needs to be filled and then painted, but apart from that the door is done (and just in the nick of time, looking at the grey clouds overhead today) :j

Thanks for all the advice :T