Shower leak - Insurance Will Not Cover

mildred1978

cyclonebri1 wrote: »

I posted about this recently, it's probably not the sealants fault, more like the installers.
A decent seant should last 10 years and that's if its flexing, if it's not it's life span is in decades.
All this is provided a decent silicone is used, some come with a rated 10 year lifespan.

But in answer to the above quote, if the bath is installed on a structurally sound frame it should not move. It needs a 3 x 2 to sit on on all sides that meet the walls.
Plus the edge of the bath is at least 2" deep. You can get about 4 runs of sealer or adhesive on the edge with just the flexy white top 1 visible.

And lastly, the tiling must go below the bath lip, not sit on it.;)

Might just help the op with the repairs.

As fascinating as that is, I was talking about a shower tray, not a bath??????? As was the OP.

southcoastrgi

cyclonebri1 wrote: »

And lastly, the tiling must go below the bath lip, not sit on it.;)

Got to say I disagree there, you fit the bath then tile onto it, with the bath fitted tight to the wall there is no way a tile will go down the side, but as someone else said it's not a bath in this tread

keystone

cyclonebri1 wrote: »

But in answer to the above quote, if the bath is installed on a structurally sound frame it should not move. It needs a 3 x 2 to sit on on all sides that meet the walls.

Well firstly it's a shower tray not a bath and secondly whilst such a large piece of timber is your prefered method (and theres nothing wrong it that per se) it is a really seriously overengineered ssolution. A bath can be made perfectly secure with a cheaper construction using smaller dimensioned timbers. The word I have issue with is "needs" which implies its almost mandatory which it isn't and not very MSE either. "I prefer to" would, I think be much better. But I am being a tad pendantic probably unecessarily. Our readers can make of it what they will. We are noit going to agree so lets agree to disagree and leave it at that.

Plus the edge of the bath is at least 2" deep. You can get about 4 runs of sealer or adhesive on the edge with just the flexy white top 1 visible.

Sorry but now I am going to tell you thats quite wrong IMO. You certainly don't want to create a reservoir between bath and tiles that you attempt to fill with sealant and silicone doesn't stick to itself.

And lastly, the tiling must go below the bath lip, not sit on it.;)

Sorry but there is absolutely no "must" about it. No tiler works like that. As already stated you tile down to the edge of the bath once the bath is in place. With the bath firmly attached to the wall and the tiles also firmly attached to the wall you only need a single bead of sealant.

Cheers

cyclonebri1

keystone wrote: »

Well firstly it's a shower tray not a bath and secondly whilst such a large piece of timber is your prefered method (and theres nothing wrong it that per se) it is a really seriously overengineered ssolution. A bath can be made perfectly secure with a cheaper construction using smaller dimensioned timbers. The word I have issue with is "needs" which implies its almost mandatory which it isn't and not very MSE either. "I prefer to" would, I think be much better. But I am being a tad pendantic probably unecessarily. Our readers can make of it what they will. We are noit going to agree so lets agree to disagree and leave it at that.

Sorry but now I am going to tell you thats quite wrong IMO. You certainly don't want to create a reservoir between bath and tiles that you attempt to fill with sealant and silicone doesn't stick to itself.

Sorry but there is absolutely no "must" about it. No tiler works like that. As already stated you tile down to the edge of the bath once the bath is in place. With the bath firmly attached to the wall and the tiles also firmly attached to the wall you only need a single bead of sealant.

Cheers

Ok, missed that bit, but the principle still applies, if the tray moves the sealant will "give", the restraining method changes

The sealant isn't intended to stick to itself, it sticks to wall and bath or wall and try
If you can accept that if you seal it 4 times as I said, it has to fail 4 times for it to become an issue.

I'm sorry but we disagree about the tiling, only a !!!!!! would tile down to the bath if he had an opportunity to tile before.

The reason the trade do it that way is simple, it's more cost effective and simpler to have the tiler in last, when everyone else is out of the way.
If you want the best job then tile before fitting the bath/shower as it's difficult to seal against bare plaster and you only get 1 seal unlike the way I do it, or just maybe the trade wants to save money and isn't bothered after the warranty is gorn?.

southcoastrgi

cyclonebri1 wrote: »

Ok, missed that bit, but the principle still applies, if the tray moves the sealant will "give", the restraining method changes

The sealant isn't intended to stick to itself, it sticks to wall and bath or wall and try
If you can accept that if you seal it 4 times as I said, it has to fail 4 times for it to become an issue.

I'm sorry but we disagree about the tiling, only a !!!!!! would tile down to the bath if he had an opportunity to tile before.

The reason the trade do it that way is simple, it's more cost effective and simpler to have the tiler in last, when everyone else is out of the way.
If you want the best job then tile before fitting the bath/shower as it's difficult to seal against bare plaster and you only get 1 seal unlike the way I do it, or just maybe the trade wants to save money and isn't bothered after the warranty is gorn?.

I don't normally disagree with you & not twice on one thread but you are wrong, with a modern "plastic" bath it will come with two L shaped brackets these screw onto the timber under the bath lip & then screw to the wall, how are you suppost to fix these to the wall if you have already tiled ? The only time you tile first is if you have a free standing bath EVERY other time the bath is installed & it is tiled onto.

And due to most baths having sloping edges if it was installed your way the final silicon sealant seal would be anywhere upto an inch wide now i wouldn't call that the best job.

cyclonebri1

southcoastrgi wrote: »

I don't normally disagree with you & not twice on one thread but you are wrong, with a modern "plastic" bath it will come with two L shaped brackets these screw onto the timber under the bath lip & then screw to the wall, how are you suppost to fix these to the wall if you have already tiled ? The only time you tile first is if you have a free standing bath EVERY other time the bath is installed & it is tiled onto.

And due to most baths having sloping edges if it was installed your way the final silicon sealant seal would be anywhere upto an inch wide now i wouldn't call that the best job.

No problem, we aren't having sex or anything.;);)

I simply screw the brackets to the 3 x 2 I've installed to support the bath, with the amount of sealant, and the 1st layer is CT1, I don't thing any brackets are needed anyway.
Yes, as KS would say, it's over engineering, (I am an ex professional engineer, maybe that's why), but then I've never had the problem the op has, and have used my method many times to fix issues for others when I was more active.

Yes you do get a wider joint, but provided the walls are true and square, the joint ends up no more than 1/2 wide.

We each have different opinions but I far prefer to see the tiles disappear behind the bath, I think it looks better, the bath panels are less likely to need cutting and if the bath is ever damaged or changed then its less damaging than if the tiles are cut around the bath.

Each to his own, and more than 1 way to skin a cat.;);)