Rewiring A House

Uncle_Fester_2

What the going rate for Rewiring a 3Bed Semi?

Many Thanks

tightbarsteward

I am looking for a quote to have mine done & so far 2 electricans have been around to look & neither have got back to me.

2 of my friends are electricians & they reckoned it would cost around £2000. Having said that my wife's boss had his done (again 3 bed semi) & it was £4000 but he had a lot done with a lot of outside light's & god know's what else.

I have been told I could save myself alot of money by channelling out the wall's myself as this it what takes the time & it is messy. Aparently sparks dont like getting dirty!

baldelectrician

My going rate is from £1850 upwards.

Depends on what you need.

lots of spots = lots of extra work = more cost.

It depends on where you are in the UK.

My price includes building warrant certification (if required - Scotland)
or part P certification (England & Wales)

Also includes BS 7671 certification (all of UK)

robby-01

Uncle_Fester wrote: »

What the going rate for Rewiring a 3Bed Semi?

Many Thanks

Anything upto 9 grand plus vat

nshackle

I have recently had a full re-wire of my 3 bed room semi, including 6 spot lights inserted into the kitchen ceiling and 4 in the bathroom ceiling. The cost was £2400 and took approx 2.5 weeks (largely due to the considerable chasing out required).

It really can leave the house in a filthy state - I was fortunate not to have to live there whilst the work was undertaken.

Uncle_Fester_2

robby-01 wrote: »

Anything upto 9 grand plus vat

That's a truly ridiculous price!!! :eek:

lilyann1

We are currently having our 4 bed detached done,the quotes we got ranged from £3500 to £7500!!!!!
So shop around.
We have 11 rooms and a garage and are having security lighting around building and lots lighting and sockets put in the loft too, and are paying around £4k if thats any guide to you?

4$£&*(£$&*(!

I've rewired a couple of homes myself. As a general rule, you need one loop for upstairs lighting, one for downstairs, one for downstairs sockets except kitchen, one for upstairs sockets plus kitchen, and optional are seperate circuits for exterior lighting, central heating electrics, shower and a cooker connection.

On the lighting and sockets, you use the right gauge cable from Wickes/budget DIY shop for lights and sockets, then just start at the consumer unit, go to first socket, wire it in, then loop it to the next socket, keep looping and at last socket go back to the consumer unit (this is called a 'ring main').

Then you do similar on your lights, looping round except you need a seperate cable coming off the lights to feed the switch.

Any other connection like for a shower can just go from consumer unit to the ceiling switch then down to the shower. I then wired it all into the consumer unit, using 32 amp trips for sockets and shower, and 16 amp for lighting. What you could technically then do is remove the service fuse from the electricity supply, then wire in the meter tails into the consumer unit and job done, if you went to somewhere like Screwfix.co.uk you'd probably have it all done for under £300 including new basic sockets, light fittings and switches, cable, consumer unit and trip switches.

The word of warning though is messing about with stuff you're not competent with can kill, and although no-one will probably ever find out if you do it right (apart from the seal being removed from the service fuse, which I know of several that have gone ignored even when I've pointed them out to meter readers), it's illegal to tamper with electricity company units, and wiring ring mains should be either professionally installed or if installed by yourself, part p certified by a professional.

Edit - the other thing you could do, which would be legal, is to phone an electrician first, ask if they will let you lay the cable and do the messy bits, and they wire it up - you then save yourself the most time consuming bit an electrician will charge you for and probably get their electrician's mate to do anyway.

vaio

£25 per connection point (light, socket, cooker, cu, switch etc are all a point) is a good starting place.

More if the house is occupied

robby-01

Uncle_Fester wrote: »

That's a truly ridiculous price!!! :eek:

A ridiculous answer to a ridiculous question.
How can anyone give a quote on the information supplied.

baldelectrician

City
On the lighting and sockets, you use the right gauge cable from Wickes/budget DIY shop for lights and sockets, then just start at the consumer unit, go to first socket, wire it in, then loop it to the next socket, keep looping and at last socket go back to the consumer unit (this is called a 'ring main').

Any other connection like for a shower can just go from consumer unit to the ceiling switch then down to the shower. I then wired it all into the consumer unit, using 32 amp trips for sockets and shower, and 16 amp for lighting.

Most showers have a load greater than 32A
8.5 kW = 37 A approx, 9.5 kW = 40A approx, 10.8kW = 45 A approx

Lights have a current capacity of 6 or 10 A, not 16A. Most of the light switches in screwfix are rated less than 16A.

ps You never mentioned main or supplimentary bonding and smoke detectors.
Lights are wired in a radial circuit (not a ring), called 'loop in'.

pps I'm glad I don't stay next door to you. A little knowlege is a dangerous thing.

You should use a competent person for the work, links below

In Scotland:
Individuals regitered;
http://www.sbsa.gov.uk/register/ListAC.asp
Companies
http://www.sbsa.gov.uk/register/SearchCo.asp?T=Construction&ID=2

In England and Wales:
http://www.competentperson.co.uk