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My wife bought concert tickets on eBay sometime last year, but didn't receive them (seller had some sob story, can't remember exactly what).
eBay and PayPal both refused to do anything about it, as the transaction took place more than 3 months ago (great customer services there...)
I then decided to try my credit card company (Capital One), who immediately started the appropriate proceedings. It didn't seem to matter to them the transaciton was via PayPal.
All I had to do was send off some proof I'd tried contacting the seller, which I did. Within a week or so Cap1 had refunded the money to my account!
Funnily enough, I soon received an email from PayPal regarding the chargeback from Cap1. It asked me if I meant to do this, and that I could click a button to reverse the chargeback if I wanted! Serves them right for hiding behind a 3-month policy...
American Express and Capital one have also both refunded me for transactions on Ebay.