How to drill a tap hole in a s/s sink?

keystone

googler wrote: »

With a Carron sink and B&Q tap, the solution appeared to be merely a flat plastic plate supplied with the tap, which fitted below the sink plate, and above the securing nut. Still wobbles.

QED.

And the sink assembly PDF clearly shows a tap mounted on the sink itself, not on the worktop.

So what? Bet it doesn't tell you how to do it though does it? Bet it also doesn't show a worktop anywhere near the sink either because this sink isn't designed for a worktop.

Cheers

googler

If the worktop is 38mm deep, say, and the thread on the tap is only 10mm long, there's nowhere for the securing nut to latch on to, unless the OP makes an additional hole in the worktop from below, so one hole from above, the diameter of the tap thread, another from below, diameter sufficient for securing nut and/or box spanner, leaving a 'shoulder' less than 10mm deep at the top for the nut to bite on.

keystone

Googler

Oh I see now. We are at cross purposes. You are talking about a conventional tap with a backnut in which case you'd be right. I'm talking about a monobloc style which most modern kitchen taps are and which have a different fitting mechanism and which are eminently suitable for fitting in the worktop itself..

Cheers

keystone

Kitchen_DesignR wrote: »

LOL, yea I posted another question...and YOU evaded it.

I asked first.

Cheers

newbutold

With our ikea sink we bought a (don't know the proper name!) sink hole cutter thingy(!) in ikea. It was around £10 I think.

abankerbutnotafatcat

snax wrote: »

Was in this situ a couple or 3 years back and iirc most ikea sinks are 'hole-less' as they think you might like to choose where it is sited on the sink ... [left, right, centre, next-to, etc].

Anyways I bought their 'make a hole kit' and it has been perfect .....
http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/products/28512100/

The red bit on the left is for cutting copper pipes [it's a wee bit rubbish tbh] but the black bit on the right does a fine job 'if you take your time and go slowly'

after a few turns to tighten the tool - slacken off and turn it round about 1 cm and re-tighten - repeat and repeat until it cuts through the sink metal with a resounding ' thunk!!'

hope it helps.

Thanks, Snax. Wish i'd seen that when placing the order!!!

To everyone else, you all got a bit techy for me there - but is the solution that the plumber is likely to have a similar hole cutter thingy to the one Snax suggested?:)

mikey72

abankerbutnotafatcat wrote: »

Thanks, Snax. Wish i'd seen that when placing the order!!!

To everyone else, you all got a bit techy for me there - but is the solution that the plumber is likely to have a similar hole cutter thingy to the one Snax suggested?:)

He should have, it's fairly standard to have to punch a hole in sinks like this, there are a lot without a tap hole, and it's common pratice to have to make the hole. It's worth a call first though, just to make sure he's got it with him.

keystone

But we still haven't got around the plain and simple fact that this sink ain't for fitting in a worktop whatever the tap fitting mechanism turns out to be and its quite clear that OP has got a worktop

abankerbutnotafatcat wrote: »

.....but it's the full depth of the work top...................

that they want to fit it to. So whether the plumber has got a suitable tool or not is irrelevant if the sink that he has turned up to plumb in can't be fitted to the worktop in the first instance.

Cheers

mikey72

I read that as meaning the tap won't fit behind, the worksurface is butted up to the side, so the tap must fit on the sink, as per the fitting instructions. The sink will be fitted to the top of the unit.

keystone

mikey72 wrote: »

I read that as meaning the tap won't fit behind, the worksurface is butted up to the side, so the tap must fit on the sink, as per the fitting instructions. The sink will be fitted to the top of the unit.

I'm not sure of that at all. Perhaps OP could clarify the installation requirement. In earlier posts I noted that this sink is designed to sit on a 600 unit and assumed that as the sink is 38mm deep then the worktop would be butted up to it at original installation. I think OP has an existing worktop in an existing kitchen to retrofit to but I could be wrong. Perhaps they would clarify?

Cheers