Changing oil tip

Wig

When I change my oil I always flush afterwards, you can re-use flushing oil 5 times or more but I only reuse it once. And if you were to pass it through a filter you would have no problem re using 5 - 10 times, infact I think I might start doing that.

Anyway, on a Corsa the sump plug is on the underside of the sump but it's at the back of the sump, but if you look at the shape of the sump you will see the sump plug is not at the bottom-most-part of the sump, so what I do is, when the oil has reduced to a drip, drip, drip...... I jack up the front of the car about 10 - 12 inches and this then gets a lot more oil out as it flows backwards to the sump outlet. Or you could do it on a steep hill to begin with. The point is look at your cars sump and if the plug is not at the bottom then figure out how to maximise the drainage. And removing the oil filter on most cars will get a bit more oil out, you should be changing the filter anyway but I thought I'd mention it.

But this is not the end of it, if you have time, replace the sump plug and leave it over night. Then remove it and get another load of black oil out. I got a further 1/4 litre out the following day. After jacking the front & the flow had been reduced to a drip the previous day. A further 1/4 litre of black oil !

Now the dipstick is golden.

paddedjohn

I agree with what you're saying but leaving a 1/4 litre of old oil in the engine won't cause any probs guaranteed

Obukit

You would be better off just changing the oil slightly earlier than messing around trying to get every last drop out IMO. The service interval on my car is 10k but I change it every 6k, oil and filters are cheap.

Rolandtheroadie

Recently I couldnt find the tool for slackening the filter (theres about 3 in my garage somewhere) so used an old timing belt. Worked a treat.

Although if I got rid of things like old timing belts etc, I'd probably find the right tools.

GolfBravo

Another tip:
Car manufacturers state recommended oil change intervals, and usually give you two change intervals: light duty and heavy duty use.

Heavy duty is city/short distance driving, and not high speed motorway driving. Long distance driving allows for oil contamination (water vapour and fuel) to boil off in high temperature. Engines which are used mostly for short distance trips require more frequent changes due to build-up of these contaminants - this is especially important for modern diesel engines fitted with DPF, so the new standard 2yr/20K miles oil change interval probably does not apply to most cars.

forgotmyname

Problem is, Flushing oil is a poor lubricant.

Modern production tolerances require decent lubricant and flushing oil will do more harm than good.

Regular oil changes with the correct grade will keep it running sweetly.

Mine gets changed every 4000 or 6000 miles. Never longer than 6000 miles.

160,000 miles and still going strong.

And NEVER EVER EVER use flushing oil in a turbo engine. Unless you want buy a new turbo unit sooner rather than later.

You cannot get all that flushing oil out when draining it.

Even after 3 or 4 flushes with proper engine oil, Some will still remain.

Diesel oil gets dirty very quickly and after a change it may still look black.

Tip buy some cheap brand BUT THE CORRECT GRADE oil. Drain and refill with clean oil.
Drain and change the oil filter, Refil.

Run the engine to warm the oil again and drain again and then refill with a good quality oil.

I did that and the oil stayed clean for a while. Its a diesel it still gets dirty quickly. On my last car a petrol. The oil looked exactly the same colour after 6000 miles.

Wig

I disagree, the flushing oil is only in there for 5 - 10 mins on cycle of idle, fast idle. And I don't know the exact grade rating but flushing oil is just a very low viscosity oil i.e. 20W/12. The engine doesn't get a chance to get hot. You don't drive on it, you only idle it, so there is no heavy loads on the engine components. It does no harm at all IMHO and I've used it on all my cars since the year dot.

And as already shown if you leave your car to drip overnight you get another 1/8 - 1/4 litre out it's pretty much empty. but as paddedjohn says even if there is abit of old stiff or flushing stuff in there, it is as nothing when you top it up with 3 litres of proper spec oil.

You are correct not to use it in a diesel turbo, although the proper oil you put in a diesel turbo is likely to have more "flushing" properties than the flushing oil itself...... but I still wouldn't recommend it, there is no need anyway. Using it in any old car that has not been regularly flushed before is a bit risky.

forgotmyname

You do the equivalent of many hours worth of damage in those 5 or 10 minutes.

And the cam carrier wont drain all the flushing oil out and if you have hydraulic tappets they will have flushing oil in them.
As will any hydraulic tensioners.

Your car your money wasted.

Glad i only buy dealer serviced cars.

mikey72

forgotmyname wrote: »

You do the equivalent of many hours worth of damage in those 5 or 10 minutes.

And the cam carrier wont drain all the flushing oil out and if you have hydraulic tappets they will have flushing oil in them.
As will any hydraulic tensioners.

Your car your money wasted.

Glad i only buy dealer serviced cars.

The ones that pump half the oil out though the dipstick hole, and leave the sludge in the bottom?

cyclonebri1

forgotmyname wrote: »

Problem is, Flushing oil is a poor lubricant.

Modern production tolerances require decent lubricant and flushing oil will do more harm than good.

Regular oil changes with the correct grade will keep it running sweetly.

Mine gets changed every 4000 or 6000 miles. Never longer than 6000 miles.

160,000 miles and still going strong.

And NEVER EVER EVER use flushing oil in a turbo engine. Unless you want buy a new turbo unit sooner rather than later.

You cannot get all that flushing oil out when draining it.

Even after 3 or 4 flushes with proper engine oil, Some will still remain.

Diesel oil gets dirty very quickly and after a change it may still look black.

Tip buy some cheap brand BUT THE CORRECT GRADE oil. Drain and refill with clean oil.
Drain and change the oil filter, Refil.

Run the engine to warm the oil again and drain again and then refill with a good quality oil.

I did that and the oil stayed clean for a while. Its a diesel it still gets dirty quickly. On my last car a petrol. The oil looked exactly the same colour after 6000 miles.

Totally agree for the above reasons but also because even if the stuff does ruin the engine through lack of correct lubrication, it is also designed to remove carbonisation and you can guarantee that only a percentage of the stuff it loosens will drain from the engine.
I for one would prefer that to remain attached rather than form an abrasive soup in the nice new clean oil.

And another tip or a rant if you like whilst we are on oil changes.

Why Oh why do car manufacturers cover the sump plug with solid undertrays with no access to the drain:mad::mad::mad:

The 1st time I do an oil change on a new car I put a couple of white paint marks on the chassis at apropriate point to cross ref the position of the drain plug.
I then drill the undertray at the appropriate point with a holesaw and fit a 2" blind rubber grommet, (you can get one of these or similar from the boot floor of almost any car in a scrap yard).

Next time it's simply a case of pulling out the grommet and no need to remove the complete undertray unless you are in the unfortunate position of not being able to access the oil filter from above, not an issue I've had recently,

oldagetraveller

"Why Oh why do car manufacturers cover the sump plug with solid undertrays with no access to the drain:mad::mad::mad:"
I agree completely.
However, Toyota have used a bit of common sense with the Mk 2 Yaris Diesel. Whether it's the same for other models in their range, I don't know?
There is a square hole in the undertray directly below the drain plug, big enough for access and to allow the oil to drain into a container and not onto the undertray!
There's also a latch secured square "flap" which hinges down to allow full access to the oil filter.
For once, a bit of using the brain in the design stage!