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Which kind of gas fire for home without chimney?

I'm currently going through the process of buying a home without a chimney and would like to have a gas fire fitted. It wouldn't be on an outside wall, so I don't think a balanced flue is suitable.

From my internet searches I see that there are 2 other different kinds available; flueless, and catalytic and I am wondering what would be the most suitable to consider. I've heard that some fires that don't need a chimney can be noisy?

I would be looking for the most energy efficient possible, preferably living flame, so something basically decorative wouldn't suit me.

Thanks if you can give any advice.
The bigger the bargain, the better I feel.

I should mention that there's only one of me, don't confuse me with others of the same name.
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Comments

  • warmgas
    warmgas Posts: 35 Forumite
    A flueless fire contains a catalytic converter. If you go down this route then there are some critical things to be aware of:

    1/ The room has to be of a minimum size (m3) depending on the model of fire.

    2/ A Permanent, non-closeable air vent of a certain size needs to be fitted which communicates directly with the outside air.

    3/ There needs to be another source of heating in the room, i.e radiators, as flueless fires are designed for secondary/background heating due to condensation.

    It is also a good idea to have a carbon monoxide alarm fitted at the same time as well.
  • BuntyB
    BuntyB Posts: 228 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture Combo Breaker
    There's also the 'power flue' option. It's an open gas fire with no glass front and the flue goes straight through to outside. Only downside is it has a fan that sucks the bad gas out through the flue and a fair bit of the heat as well so not very efficient but does allow you the option of a glass free frontage
  • cattie
    cattie Posts: 8,844 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    edited 26 May 2012 at 2:54PM
    warmgas wrote: »
    A flueless fire contains a catalytic converter. If you go down this route then there are some critical things to be aware of:

    1/ The room has to be of a minimum size (m3) depending on the model of fire.

    2/ A Permanent, non-closeable air vent of a certain size needs to be fitted which communicates directly with the outside air.

    3/ There needs to be another source of heating in the room, i.e radiators, as flueless fires are designed for secondary/background heating due to condensation.

    It is also a good idea to have a carbon monoxide alarm fitted at the same time as well.


    Good, this sounds very suitable as it's a really a fair sized room. And I will be having a new gas ch system installed as it currently has gas warm air heating system installed.
    The bigger the bargain, the better I feel.

    I should mention that there's only one of me, don't confuse me with others of the same name.
  • muckybutt
    muckybutt Posts: 3,761 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture Combo Breaker
    We had one fitted in our first house, we werent on mains gas so had a lpg one.

    We were well impressed with the way it operated and the heat output we got from it was brilliant.

    As stated you will need a direct air veny normally a 4" one, get one with a baffle inside it as it will cut down the draught, also a very good idea to get a co detector too.
    You may click thanks if you found my advice useful
  • cattie wrote: »
    And I will be having a new gas ch system installed as it currently has gas warm air heating system installed.

    Why are you removing the warm air system ? - they are at least as efficient as a wet system and are much more space efficient. AND cheaper to maintain.
  • cattie
    cattie Posts: 8,844 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    Why are you removing the warm air system ? - they are at least as efficient as a wet system and are much more space efficient. AND cheaper to maintain.

    Are they really? To be honest I just assumed it wasn't a very efficient heating system in this day and age ( think system was installed late 60's) and thought I'd like to be rid of the vents at floor and ceiling level in each room.

    Also there are boilers in both the bathroom and kitchen, which I assume must be for hot water and in a cupboard in the hall is a great big monster of a boiler for the heating system. Gaining full access to this nice big cupboard for storage was my aim in thinking about a combi boiler with new ch system.
    The bigger the bargain, the better I feel.

    I should mention that there's only one of me, don't confuse me with others of the same name.
  • Avoriaz
    Avoriaz Posts: 39,110 Forumite
    BuntyB wrote: »
    There's also the 'power flue' option. It's an open gas fire with no glass front and the flue goes straight through to outside. Only downside is it has a fan that sucks the bad gas out through the flue and a fair bit of the heat as well so not very efficient but does allow you the option of a glass free frontage
    We had one of those fitted in our previous home.

    They can be fitted either through an outside wall or, as in the OP's situation, ducted a certain distance to the outside.

    We were very pleased with it. It's main purpose was decorative but it was still very effective at heating a large 18.5 foot by 18.5 foot room.

    The fan noise was audible but not obtrusive. In fact it wasn't dissimilar in volume and sound to a real fire.

    Cattie, I suggest you check them out at your local fireplace shops.
  • johnrregan
    johnrregan Posts: 9 Forumite
    you have to remember though that catalytic gas fires are decorative, you cant fit one in a room that hasnt got another form of heating, and you need to have the other heating running at the same time as the catalytic fire. this seems pretty pointless in my mind, and though they wont tell you this when you buy them, they have a very finite life before the catalyst needs to be replaced. speak to your installer first, as a lot of gas safe guys (myself included) refuse to touch them as theye have some doubt over their long term safety unless a regular service check is carried out. in my mind, if you are concerned about efficiency and running costs, then why have a gas fire you can only use when the heating is on, youd be better off with bigger radiators!!
  • cattie wrote: »
    Are they really? To be honest I just assumed it wasn't a very efficient heating system in this day and age ( think system was installed late 60's) and thought I'd like to be rid of the vents at floor and ceiling level in each room.

    This is the favourite opening gambit of someone just trying to get you to sign up to a multi-thousand pound new CH system - which in most cases is completely unnecessary.

    Why get rid of the vents in the floor ? you will lose MUCH more wall space for radiators. Get some sheets of cardboard to represent your new radiators and see where your furniture will no longer fit.
    You can get a water heater installed in the same unit as the warm air heater - I have one in mine.
    Don't believe the stories about them spreading dust and germs - again, salesman propaganda !
    The main reason that they seem to have "fallen out of fashion" is that the house had to be designed around the system, which cost a bit more. All houses now are designed to the absolute minimum of cost, the "standard" rectangular box - regardless of what it costs the purchaser to run it !!
    Do some research - don't believe ANYONE who tells you that warm air is not efficient, installed properly it is on a par with a modern wet system .

    They are just after your money ....................
  • wrong! the main reason warm air units in domestic applications fell out of favour is because the heat exchanger plates would crack and become perforated and allow direct products of combustion into the living space. ive lost track of the number of domestic warm air installations ive condemned, not fishing for work, but because they were blowing poc into the ductwork. on the whole, warm air isnt that efficient, its simple enough and its handy to use the ventilation to supply air in hot weather. but if you think a warm air unit aproaches the efficiency of a modern condensing boiler, then youre deluded.
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