Solid Wood Floor that can be re-laid?

michaels

WE have a kitchen/family room which is partly an extension. Some time when we have funds we would plan to completely remove the original rear wall and have a big steel but currently we are leaving in a supporting pillar,

I want to have real wood flooring put down but want something that could be taken up and relaid once the column is removed rather than having an ugly infill.

Most of the wood flooring I have done has been secret nailed T&G but I can't imagine this could be taken up without destroying the boards as the nails hold so firmly. Otherwise I know the floor could be glued but obviously with the same problem. It will be laid on the original boards in the existing house part and 15mm ply over screed in the new part (obviously with appropriate membrane and underlay).

Could I use the 'clip' style flooring like the stuff they do at Wickes? I am concerned as this needs to be end glued. Other wise is it possible to get real wood 'clic-clac' type flooring? Would either be suitable for a kitchen without gluing all the joins?

Thanks for any suggestions.

Jonesya

You can get screws for secret fixing through the tongue as you would with nails:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/tongue-tite-screws-3-5-x-45mm-pack-of-200/85991

I laid a solid oak floor for a landing area using these and they worked well, I pilot drilled the boards and didn't have a single one split. You can remove them easily enough.

jcb208

You can get engineered wood flooring that uses the click lock system.Its made from a ply base with a solid hard wood top layer of between 2 -4 mm depending on make and price that can be resanded if damaged.I used Kahrs on my floor 10 years ago and still looks good apart from the odd dent, have a look HERE

michaels

Thanks - only problem seems to be I have put down 8mm ply and with 18mm boards (12mm from top of toungue and a 30 degree angle the 45mm screws need to go down 22.5mm rather than the 20mm I have available. Maybe I will have to put down some harboard, might help with leveling over the old and new bits anyway.

Jonesya wrote: »

You can get screws for secret fixing through the tongue as you would with nails:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/tongue-tite-screws-3-5-x-45mm-pack-of-200/85991

I laid a solid oak floor for a landing area using these and they worked well, I pilot drilled the boards and didn't have a single one split. You can remove them easily enough.