Increasing pressure of my shower upstairs

yangptangkipperbang

If you are fitting a pump - don't fit too high a pressure. Your wonderful hot "power shower" will soon turn into a freezing cold deluge when you empty the hot water tank.

keystone

katy123 wrote: »

Keystone, can you help with my other post?

The tap one? - I'll have a boo in a minute.

There should be a separate drawoff from the cylinder for the shower pump. If you tee it off the hot supply as you mention that won't consitute a separate drawoff.

Any HWC has air in it. If you just tee off the vent above the taps supply then you will draw air out of the cylinder and also potentially draw air down the vent pipe. That will challenge your showering enjoyment and the pump manufacturers warranty depatment. The only way you can do it sensibly off the vent/other taps supply pipe is to adjust the vent pipe so that it goes up at a 45 degree angle from the cylinder and then drawoff your pump supply at right angles to the 45 degree bit. A surrey (warix or york for that matter all do same job) flange fits into the top of the cylinder where the current vent/hot tap supply pipe is fitted. It contains TWO drawoff points. The vertical facing one is just like your existing arrangement and you just connect your vent/existing hot supply to that. The horizontal one is where you would connect your pipework leading to the shower pump. Internally it has another pipe which sticks down into the hot water below the small air pocket at the top so you can't draw air in and your pump has its own separate suply.

For completeness I'll mention an essex flange as well which goes into the side of the cylinder either via an existing boss or via a hole made especially.

HTH

Cheers

katy123

Keystone thanks for your reply. I think we have all the parts. The only thing is that we got a 22mm surrey flange but not sure if it will fit! We're starting in 30mins.

We are going to connect the hot pipe to the whole house hot water supply as we have a weak flow in the upstairs basin too. That goes for the cold water pipe too, it will feed all upstairs cold water as the cold water pipe from the loft tank is accessible easily in the airing cupboard & it branches out under the floor which we don't know how to access. Hopefully the cheapest pump we got will be ok...it does have a 20mins run 40min off rating though...hahha....

katy123

oh no, took it off and realised the female connector at the top of the tank does not fit my S flange. my S flange is 1", can anyone please advise which flange I need (preferably with a link) the other 2 holes on the flange for the vent & hot water supply has 22mm connectors which is correct for my pipework.

I did find one at screw-fix :

http://www.screwfix.com/p/warwick-male-flange/88212#product_additional_details_container

which is 3/4" but the two connectors don't have threads on.

southcoastrgi

katy123 wrote: »

oh no, took it off and realised the female connector at the top of the tank does not fit my S flange. my S flange is 1", can anyone please advise which flange I need (preferably with a link) the other 2 holes on the flange for the vent & hot water supply has 22mm connectors which is correct for my pipework.

I did find one at screw-fix :

http://www.screwfix.com/p/warwick-male-flange/88212#product_additional_details_container

which is 3/4" but the two connectors don't have threads on.

if it's a normal type cylinder the outlet at the top will be a 1" tapping the fitting you have taken out sounds like a 3/4" thread therefore the cylinder will still have the reduceing bush screwed into it, take this out & the flange should fit

katy123

Keith, thanks for your reply....but how do i remove the reducing bush?

ListysDad

Katy there is one thing KS forgot to mention which is pretty important. If you are now installing a dual ended pump you'll be taking a feed for teh cold direct from the CWST in the loft. What that means is that you'll be using water from that tank far faster than it can fill up so if you use it for long enough it will run dry.

Make sure also that the outlet for the cold water for the pump is set at the correct level. Really it should be placed LOWER than the outlet for the hot water cylinder so if the water does run out you always have cold water so don't get burnt.

EVERY shower pump manufacturer tells you that you have to double the stored cold water capacity if you are using a pump for a shower.

Now for the real world. One can 'get away with' a single tank if you are on your own and YOU control how long you're in etc. As soon as anyone else is involved do it properly.

katy123

the hot cylinder tank is definately too small to fit a 1" bsp. There is no "reducing bush", it isn't deep enough & wider enough to contain a bush. So I've ordered a 3/4 warick flange now...does anyone know how to connect the 2 outputs to the vent & hot water supply? there isn't a screw cap on the outputs as shown in the picture:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/warwick-ma...ails_container

THanks

ListysDad

Top connection is to std hw and vent pipe and horizontal is the HW supply to the pump. Remember to put in a full bore isolating valve in the HW supply to the pump and bend the tube rather than use elbows etc.

apexblue

keystone wrote: »

Pump it. Separate (from all other drawoffs) cold feed from CSWT in roof to pump. Separate hot feed from cylinder (via top or side mounted flange) to pump. Output from pump to shower. Pump can be in roof or adjacent to cylinder - just make sure its piped properly.

Oh and you won't increase the pressure what you will do is increase the flow rate which is actually what you want.

Cheers

How much should this cost please?