What size torque wrench?

vaio

mikey72 wrote: »

Do you have a link for that, mines not a merc, but nowhere near that figure though.

http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2233

post #9 but that is the web so I'd still check the owners book

seemed high to me too but suppose it depends on the thread size, think our sprinter sized Iveco is 160nm

Gloomendoom

pendulum wrote: »

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-633567-Torque-Wrench/dp/B000LFTSG6/ref=sr_1_2?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1335007270&sr=1-2But you use them for doing things up, never undoing something, it damages them

And remember to wind off the torque setting after you have finished using it. Otherwise the spring gets a set in it which büggers up the calibration.

SteveJW

I think it is for wheel nuts, does that sound feasible? We have a mini coach and husband wants it because it is part of the walk round check you need to do.

He isn't here at the moment - I just thought I would surprise him by getting it sorted!!!

Walk round check does not require that the torque of the wheel nuts are checked, a visible examination is all that is required. You need to look for signs of rust / fretting around the nuts. Even VOSA do not check the torque when carrying out a HGV / PSV test, they carry out a visual examination and tap the nuts with a small hammer

See
http://www.dft.gov.uk/vosa/repository/2012%20Consolidated%20PSV%20Inspection%20Manual.pdf

Section 6 Road Wheels and Hubs

The poster at the following link may be useful of http://www.transportsfriend.org/pdf_files/pcv/psv-poster.pdf

alastairq

may be worth buying/acquiring a box full of plastic pointers, that slip firmly over each individual wheelnut.

Point them together in pairs......thus a weekly [or daily] visual check will confirm if a wheel nut is coming loose, as the pointer will have moved.


Regarding regular checks on the torque of wheelnuts?

Whilst such regular checks are admirable, if conducted without thought, the wheel nuts could end up gradually being over-tightened....the results of which could be that the threads on the studs get stretched, and the stud or nut eventually fails.

A good practice when conducting such checks is to slacken off each wheelnut, then re-torque to the specified setting.

Which is all rather a pain in the end?

Premier_2

alastairq wrote: »

may be worth buying/acquiring a box full of plastic pointers, that slip firmly over each individual wheelnut.

Point them together in pairs......thus a weekly [or daily] visual check will confirm if a wheel nut is coming loose, as the pointer will have moved.


Regarding regular checks on the torque of wheelnuts?

Whilst such regular checks are admirable, if conducted without thought, the wheel nuts could end up gradually being over-tightened....the results of which could be that the threads on the studs get stretched, and the stud or nut eventually fails.

A good practice when conducting such checks is to slacken off each wheelnut, then re-torque to the specified setting.

Which is all rather a pain in the end?

No don't loosen them! If you do that, you'll have to check them again soon after (e.g. after 100-200 miles - check the user manual for when a re-tightened wheel nut should be rechecked)

Torques should be specified as 3 figures

e.g. 230-250-195Nm or 240+/-10, 195Nm (this is just an example!)

The third figure is the audit torque, i.e. the minimal torque value that should still be in place after the joint has been allowed to relax. Ask the dealer/manufacturer for this audit torque figure if not specified in the handbook.

By checking to the audit torque figure only, you will not overtighten a relaxed joint

Scorpio_girlie

Thanks for the advice folks.

I am sure that hubby already knows that you don't have to use a torque wrench every time you do your walk round check (been in the industry many years) - I think that was just my bad wording, in order to try and get it sorted out before his return!!!! lol xx

This is a new venture for us, and he wants to dot the I's and cross all the T's - although with me around, it looks like he may just end up crossing the I's and dotting the T's!!!!!

s_b

well for what its worth i wouldnt use a torque wrench on these wheel nuts
i would make sure the threads and bolts were clean and i would tighten them up with a proper cracking bar until i felt that they were right this comes with experience of course relying on a torque wrench could be a bad thing in my opinion depending on state of nuts bolts and hub to wheel relationship
i then recheck them in 50 miles and put a dab of paint on them to confirm nothing moves in my visual checks thereafter
theres some good pointers on here mind all good

mikey72

vaio wrote: »

http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2233

post #9 but that is the web so I'd still check the owners book

seemed high to me too but suppose it depends on the thread size, think our sprinter sized Iveco is 160nm

That's about the same as my Fiat, even the bigger one are only 180nm.

red_eye

harveybobbles wrote: »

Hi.

Depends what it is you're wanting to undo?

Something simple like a door hinge would need a small one. Undoing an engine mount would need a more heavy duty one...

an expensive tool to use for undoing when a simple beaker bar does the same for less
torque wrenches are for torqueing up bolts etc

SailorSam

Just as an aside, remember when you're buying new tyres not to let the garage tighten them up with a power tool, make sure they only do it by hand. You can check them when you get home with a torque wrench.
The last thing you need is a puncture in the pouring rain only to find you can't move the nuts.