Using professional hair colour at home

Flipjango

No, wasn't bring sarcastic. It was good advice and I hadn't looked at YouTube yet! Thanks :-)

Jojo_the_Tightfisted

Flipjango wrote: »

God Jojo, you're really a pain aren't you! What on earth has this got to do with danger? You can buy home hair colour kits that contain the exact same ingredients as the pro colours, just have different shades. Using pro colours doesn't exempt you from doing patch tests and following other safety instructions. If you can't be helpful, maybe go somewhere else!?

Go on then, just do what you already seem to know is the procedure then.

Didn't realise we had so many polymaths around - textiles, organic chemistry, building, tarting up and flogging converted houses AND hairdressing.



Best safety instructions I ever heard was the one that says 'if you don't know exactly what you are doing, get someone who does to do it instead.'

Flipjango

“Only those who risk going too far can possibly find out how far they can go.” — T.S Eliot

Bennifred (and anyone else who's interested), I did get a brilliant reply on another forum I posted my original question on. Hope this helps you as well. Just followed this advice, popped out to Sally and used L'oreal Diacolour, my hair is now a perfect, dark ashy blonde - just exactly what I wanted, and all for £20, so very happy!

"First of all, I would do a protein treatment if you haven't already and use that to fill your hair prior to coloring it. If you have access to something like Joico Liquid reconstructor and spray it on (and leave it on) directly before you apply your color, that can act as a porosity equalizer to help the color take evenly. If not, I would do a protein treatment immediately before you color, to even the porosity, even if your hair feels pretty healthy.

Because you have grey hair which tend to be resistant, you may have to use a higher volume of developer, but if you use the proper level of color, you shouldn't get the lift that causes brassiness. However, if your grey isn't resistant and since you have a small percentage of it grey, you may even be able to get away with a demi which has no ability to lift at all. That's what you're going to want to try the first time, knowing that it MAY not cover the grey and you may have to re color with permanent...

So, IF your hair has more of a coppery tone to it, you're going to want to get a color with a BLUE-violet base, but if it's more golden/yellow just get a violet base AND a neutral color to help cover the grey better and to keep you from going too ashy (which if your hair is over lightened/porous may happen, but is fixable so no freaking out if it does, k? lol) If your hair is a natural level 7, and demi's tend to run dark I'd get a level 8Neutral, and a level 8(blue violet or just violet, depending) and mix them 50/50 to cancel the brass and cover the grey. Depending on what brand you're using most pro colors have a separate demi activator/developer, or some just use 10vol. it's best to use the matching color and developer from the same brand.

You're going to have to watch your ends while coloring so that they don't go too ashy, but the protein filler will help!

If the demi doesn't cover your grey, I'd switch to permanent with 20vol first, and I'd use a level 7 neutral, with a level 8 cool tone (which one and what ratio depends on how much you need to tone after the first color). Mix the 7N and 8BV together and apply... just like the demi, what ratio depends on how much orange/gold there is to neutralize. The 20 is for coverage not for lift... since your hair is a level naturally a level 7, and you're using a 7 and an 8, there's not really anywhere to lift to. If you'd be more comfortable using both N and BV in a level 7, that's fine too, but colors tend to run a little dark so you may end up a little darker than you like. Make sure you're getting a color that specifically has a BLUEVIOLET base, not just "ash". Ash doesn't mean blue, it could mean blue, green, gray, violet, or ANY mixture of those colors... which may be why you're still coming up copper, the tones in the "ash" color aren't really able to neutralize."

Mrs_Arcanum

Flipjango wrote: »

“Only those who risk going too far can possibly find out how far they can go.” — T.S Eliot

Bennifred (and anyone else who's interested), I did get a brilliant reply on another forum I posted my original question on. Hope this helps you as well. Just followed this advice, popped out to Sally and used L'oreal Diacolour, my hair is now a perfect, dark ashy blonde - just exactly what I wanted, and all for £20, so very happy!

"First of all, I would do a protein treatment if you haven't already and use that to fill your hair prior to coloring it. If you have access to something like Joico Liquid reconstructor and spray it on (and leave it on) directly before you apply your color, that can act as a porosity equalizer to help the color take evenly. If not, I would do a protein treatment immediately before you color, to even the porosity, even if your hair feels pretty healthy.

Because you have grey hair which tend to be resistant, you may have to use a higher volume of developer, but if you use the proper level of color, you shouldn't get the lift that causes brassiness. However, if your grey isn't resistant and since you have a small percentage of it grey, you may even be able to get away with a demi which has no ability to lift at all. That's what you're going to want to try the first time, knowing that it MAY not cover the grey and you may have to re color with permanent...

So, IF your hair has more of a coppery tone to it, you're going to want to get a color with a BLUE-violet base, but if it's more golden/yellow just get a violet base AND a neutral color to help cover the grey better and to keep you from going too ashy (which if your hair is over lightened/porous may happen, but is fixable so no freaking out if it does, k? lol) If your hair is a natural level 7, and demi's tend to run dark I'd get a level 8Neutral, and a level 8(blue violet or just violet, depending) and mix them 50/50 to cancel the brass and cover the grey. Depending on what brand you're using most pro colors have a separate demi activator/developer, or some just use 10vol. it's best to use the matching color and developer from the same brand.

You're going to have to watch your ends while coloring so that they don't go too ashy, but the protein filler will help!

If the demi doesn't cover your grey, I'd switch to permanent with 20vol first, and I'd use a level 7 neutral, with a level 8 cool tone (which one and what ratio depends on how much you need to tone after the first color). Mix the 7N and 8BV together and apply... just like the demi, what ratio depends on how much orange/gold there is to neutralize. The 20 is for coverage not for lift... since your hair is a level naturally a level 7, and you're using a 7 and an 8, there's not really anywhere to lift to. If you'd be more comfortable using both N and BV in a level 7, that's fine too, but colors tend to run a little dark so you may end up a little darker than you like. Make sure you're getting a color that specifically has a BLUEVIOLET base, not just "ash". Ash doesn't mean blue, it could mean blue, green, gray, violet, or ANY mixture of those colors... which may be why you're still coming up copper, the tones in the "ash" color aren't really able to neutralize."

Fantastic information & next time I am out Abingdon way I will get sorted. Meanwhile I do seem to be able to manage with the home kits so will stick with it.

terra_ferma

Flipjango wrote: »

“Only those who risk going too far can possibly find out how far they can go.” — T.S Eliot

Bennifred (and anyone else who's interested), I did get a brilliant reply on another forum I posted my original question on. Hope this helps you as well. Just followed this advice, popped out to Sally and used L'oreal Diacolour, my hair is now a perfect, dark ashy blonde - just exactly what I wanted, and all for £20, so very happy!

"First of all, I would do a protein treatment if you haven't already and use that to fill your hair prior to coloring it. If you have access to something like Joico Liquid reconstructor and spray it on (and leave it on) directly before you apply your color, that can act as a porosity equalizer to help the color take evenly. If not, I would do a protein treatment immediately before you color, to even the porosity, even if your hair feels pretty healthy.

Because you have grey hair which tend to be resistant, you may have to use a higher volume of developer, but if you use the proper level of color, you shouldn't get the lift that causes brassiness. However, if your grey isn't resistant and since you have a small percentage of it grey, you may even be able to get away with a demi which has no ability to lift at all. That's what you're going to want to try the first time, knowing that it MAY not cover the grey and you may have to re color with permanent...

So, IF your hair has more of a coppery tone to it, you're going to want to get a color with a BLUE-violet base, but if it's more golden/yellow just get a violet base AND a neutral color to help cover the grey better and to keep you from going too ashy (which if your hair is over lightened/porous may happen, but is fixable so no freaking out if it does, k? lol) If your hair is a natural level 7, and demi's tend to run dark I'd get a level 8Neutral, and a level 8(blue violet or just violet, depending) and mix them 50/50 to cancel the brass and cover the grey. Depending on what brand you're using most pro colors have a separate demi activator/developer, or some just use 10vol. it's best to use the matching color and developer from the same brand.

You're going to have to watch your ends while coloring so that they don't go too ashy, but the protein filler will help!

If the demi doesn't cover your grey, I'd switch to permanent with 20vol first, and I'd use a level 7 neutral, with a level 8 cool tone (which one and what ratio depends on how much you need to tone after the first color). Mix the 7N and 8BV together and apply... just like the demi, what ratio depends on how much orange/gold there is to neutralize. The 20 is for coverage not for lift... since your hair is a level naturally a level 7, and you're using a 7 and an 8, there's not really anywhere to lift to. If you'd be more comfortable using both N and BV in a level 7, that's fine too, but colors tend to run a little dark so you may end up a little darker than you like. Make sure you're getting a color that specifically has a BLUEVIOLET base, not just "ash". Ash doesn't mean blue, it could mean blue, green, gray, violet, or ANY mixture of those colors... which may be why you're still coming up copper, the tones in the "ash" color aren't really able to neutralize."

great advice and well done for asking in the first place, as I would have never thought of using professional products at home :T

gunsandbanjos

I'm surprised you have any hair left OP, you must have been tearing it out reading this thread!! Glad you finally got the info you needed.

Flipjango

He he, I was rather! Still, got there in the end!

Kazipoo

Sorry haven't been on for a while, but I'd like to reply if I may...

My daughter has very ashy looking blonde/mousy hair. We used a 10.0 on her hair in the hope it would lift to a nice natural looking light blonde. The colour actually went a very brassy yellow/gold. The reason is because even though it doesn't look like it, her hair seems to have a high red content. This may be similar to the problem you are experiencing with your hairdresser and if this is the case, you need to use the opposite colour to rectify it, perhaps one with a greener base rather than the blue/purple of an ash?

If you are determined (and you seem to be) to try to rectify this at home, I urge you to take great care. If at all possible, take a small cutting from an inconspicuous part of the head (occipital bone if poss) and use this to test the colour result before doing the whole head.

With 30% grey I would recommend using a 6% (20 vol) peroxide because a quasi (demi) and 3% (10 vol) peroxide just won't touch it and if this is the primary reason for colouring, why try something that won't work in the hope that it might?

Can I just mention that just because someone works in a high priced salon doesn't mean they are better than a mobile hairdresser, it just means they work for someone else (no I'm not mobile). If cost is a real issue, perhaps you could find your local hairdressing college, they will do what you want to your hair, under the guidance of a qualified tutor (who tend to be salon owners), for a whole lot cheaper than you would expect to pay at a salon. If you are worried about a student colouring your hair, you could request a level 3 student (fully qualified hairdresser) to carry out the service, not only would you get the service for much cheaper, but you would be helping these students gain an advanced qualification.

Flipjango

Thanks for the advice Kazipoo. Unfortunately hairdressing colleges are out - I have a tiny baby so not very convenient for me as I don't have child care. I also actually quite enjoy doing things myself, so its got a lot to do with the creative challenge and the learning process as much as the cost (I can afford to get it done in the expensive places if it came down to it - i'm just fed up paying all that hard earned money to not get the results I want. I've never found a hairdresser I want to be loyal to so far - they never seem to do what you want, always what they want, and it gets tiresome constantly saying "erm, its a bit warm, I'm sure I said to only use cool colours?"). I've been going through the trial and error process with the pros for years, so I feel like, if I can work it out for myself, then the chance of getting it right every time once I've worked out what right is, is much higher, with a much lower cost. Thanks for the advice on developer strengths - useful to know. Cheers :-)

Ameyturtle

Hi I'm a hairdresser and I would recommend that you use Indola Professional I myself have just switched the brand I was using, the mix ratio will be on a leaflet that is inside the color box, I have a Sallys/Salon services where I live, it might be worth phoning your local branch just to check that they accept public customers because some have just switched to trade only.
If you have a 30% grey coverage I would recommend a 6% peroxide, it is creme peroxide that you want, the Sallys own brand peroxide is good.
If you are going to do you're own hair on your own it might be worth investing in a dye bottle also just to make it easier for yourself.
Remember to wear an old t shirt when doing so, that way you won't ruin any nice clothes, also use cheap or old towels that you don't mind getting dye on. Keep these items and wash them together it will get rid of the fresh dye and you can use them again and again.
My top tip for dye would be to register with Sallys (I'm not sure if you can do this as public) and lookout for their VAT free days I went in on my last VAT free day and got quite a few tubes of dye for much cheaper then they would have been they were on 3 for 2.

Hope this helps if you need anymore advice please feel free to message me I'll try to help the best I can