Cmax Problem

callistris

Back in December I first noted a problem with my Cmax. I drove the car from home for about 12 miles, stopped at a cashpoint and when I went to drive off again, I had no power and the car nearly stalled!
I sat there for a few minutes pressing the accelerator and the engine was quite spluttery, and not revving smoothly. Shortly afterwards this cleared and all was fine so continued my journey with no problem.

A few weeks ago the above problem returned, again after I had driven the car for a while, stop somewhere for a bit and then went to drive off the engine had no power and revving badly. Again after a few minutes the problem cleared and I was able to carry on home no problem.

When it first happened, I put it down to dirty diesel, but now its happening after every time I run the car for a short while, stop then need to drive again.
From cold the car is fine.

Anyone any ideas what the problem could be?

Strider590

DPF?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diesel_particulate_filter

They cause problems if you don't do the mileage needed for them to self clean (regenerate). A lot of people don't realise this because they don't read the manual.

The regeneration process occurs at road speeds higher than can generally be attained on city streets; vehicles driven exclusively at low speeds in urban traffic can require periodic trips at higher speeds to clean out the DPF

I suggest taking it for a good easy run down the nearest motorway (not during rush hour), see if that helps.

callistris

Strider590 wrote: »

DPF?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diesel_particulate_filter

They cause problems if you don't do the mileage needed for them to self clean (regenerate). A lot of people don't realise this because they don't read the manual.



I suggest taking it for a good easy run down the nearest motorway (not during rush hour), see if that helps.

Would you still thinks its this, when I drive 30 miles each way to work and 20 miles of that each way is motorway driving already?

I only ask as the link suggests urban driving, when mine certainly isn't:)

Strider590

callistris wrote: »

Would you still thinks its this, when I drive 30 miles each way to work and 20 miles of that each way is motorway driving already?

I only ask as the link suggests urban driving, when mine certainly isn't:)

Well, that'd be the easy option.... An awful lot of people don't do the mileage. I can't see it being the other common diesel issue of the DMF, so that rules out another huge potential cost.

The 3rd is the diesel/injector pump, hope it's not that, else it may be cheaper to scrap the car.

I suppose you need to go through the motions, check the ECU for any fault codes, make sure it's been serviced properly (and not just had the logbook stamped). If it's a service item that's failed (like glowplug or fuel filter), it should at least be a cheap/simple fix.

GolfBravo

It it was DPF the engine would be very sluggish when both cold and warm, and you would also get a warning light/error message.

Warm engine hesitation problems on a diesel are usually faulty EGR valve or injector(s). Your car would most likely have an electrically operated (not vacuum) EGR valve, so any EGR faults would trigger a warning light.

After EGR and injectors I would then check the solenoid and engine electrical connectors and wiring - sometimes you get a little bit of rust/dirt (especially in winter) inside electrical connectors, and this can cause intermittent problems. So you can just pop the bonnet up and try to move all visible/accessible engine electrical connectors, and make sure they are not loose/cracked.

If there is a warning light on, the fault is then registered and logged by the car's ECU - you can then connect it to a fault reader and find out what part the problem is ralated to. Unfortunately dealers charge plenty for error code checks, try an independent mechanic or a car electrician first.

Strider590

^^^ EGR problems don't normally clear themselves
But it wouldn't hurt to fit a blanking plate......

CKhalvashi

Another thing that I tell my company lot to do is to red-line the car once a week, which clears half the crap out the engine. Ask any cabbie/high-mileage city driver the same, and they will mention this.

I got my PA’s car from 28.6mpg to 38.1, and stopped a lovely noise following the above.

CK

wantonnoodle

My dad had a problem with lack of power in his 2004 Laguna last year. Eventually after having checked/cleaned the EGR, replaced the fuel filters and air filter (which was virtually brand new having only been changed at service a couple of months before), him and his mechanic were baffled why it was still happening.

Turned out that the problem was the small holes in the manifold cover where air was supposed to flow through were blocked with soot and carbon. His mechanic spent an hour with a pin, clearing these holes out. Needless to say, the car has driven like a dream ever since.

May be something to think about?

shortdog

A friends car did that very same thing a while ago, it turned out there was a dodgy connection to the battery. We'd changed the battery, and managed, somehow, to shear one of the bolts putting the new battery in, so we thought we'd be clever and use electrical tape to hold it together. Turns out that electrical tape is not a suitable substitiute for a bolt (who'd have guessed ), the mechanic laughed his head off when he saw it. Anyway, the connection was fixed (ie new bolt popped in) and it was fine after that.

callistris

GolfBravo wrote: »

It it was DPF the engine would be very sluggish when both cold and warm, and you would also get a warning light/error message.

Warm engine hesitation problems on a diesel are usually faulty EGR valve or injector(s). Your car would most likely have an electrically operated (not vacuum) EGR valve, so any EGR faults would trigger a warning light.

After EGR and injectors I would then check the solenoid and engine electrical connectors and wiring - sometimes you get a little bit of rust/dirt (especially in winter) inside electrical connectors, and this can cause intermittent problems. So you can just pop the bonnet up and try to move all visible/accessible engine electrical connectors, and make sure they are not loose/cracked.

If there is a warning light on, the fault is then registered and logged by the car's ECU - you can then connect it to a fault reader and find out what part the problem is ralated to. Unfortunately dealers charge plenty for error code checks, try an independent mechanic or a car electrician first.

Definitely not showing any warning lights:) Have a garage opposite where I work and they've serviced the car for me since owning it. He hooked it up to their fault reader and drew a blank:(
It is due a service, so its having that done tomorrow and is going to check also what you said above about the electrical connections:)