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Air Leakage in brand new sash windows in brand new home

Andycolch
Posts: 16 Forumite
we have recently moved into a newly built house. The house is in a conservation area and is therefore fitted with (new) timber sash windows.
We are under the impression that these new windows are subject to an excessive level of air leakage. However, the window installer argues that this is within the legally required standards.
We are therefore considering resorting to an independent party to have the windows assessed.
I understand that we could have a full Air Permeability and Pressure test done, but I gather that would cost us around 200 quids. So I wonder if anyone else has suggestions as to what we could do without having to pay that kind of money.
Any help appreciated!
We are under the impression that these new windows are subject to an excessive level of air leakage. However, the window installer argues that this is within the legally required standards.
We are therefore considering resorting to an independent party to have the windows assessed.
I understand that we could have a full Air Permeability and Pressure test done, but I gather that would cost us around 200 quids. So I wonder if anyone else has suggestions as to what we could do without having to pay that kind of money.
Any help appreciated!
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Comments
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We had new timber sash windows put in last year and they leak air like a burst balloon. I had to jam foam into the ends of the meeting rail to stop -5 air blowing into the rooms.0
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You will notice the difference if you're used to upvc. Timber windows always tend to leak more than upvc, mainly because timber expands and contracts with weather and moisture. They also tend to warp, which might open up leakage points. You may have to learn to live with this - the benefit is you've got timber windows, not plastic ones. Presumably you chose to live in a house in a conservation area because you like traditional architecture etc. Timber windows are part and parcel of that.
Remember it's important to have some air "leakage" in a house anyway. Without it, you can have all sorts of problems with condensation and air supply to fires, stoves etc. Most new windows have some form of trickle ventilation to provide this.
If some sort of sealer strip isn't incorporated in the windows, you might want to look at retrofitting that.A bank is a place that will lend you money if you can prove you don't need it.0 -
You should not have draughts whatever you material youchoose.
Fact. PVC sections tend to be slightly further apart fromeach other, where timber sections tend to touch each other. However it iseasier to draughtproof PVC sections than timber.
Timber weights and pulleys windows tend to rely upon a snugfit between the sash and frame, which is why they stick in winter (when thetimber is wet) and rattle in summer (when the timber is drier)
Weather stripping (the brush pile) reduces the opportunity for draughts but only is frames are plumb, square and within tolerances. The material its made from wont matter if it isnt fitted right, and sash windows are less forgiving than casement styled windows.
Ask for evidence of the test results for the window, the minimumair should be 300, water 600. As to see the WER the window energy rating, onthat certificate there is the air leakage figure, (often stated as zero!!! butall windows leak some air)
Then see if the company who installed them are GGF members,or accredited to other associations, most have arbitration schemes FOC to the house holder.
Otherwise you must get the independent opinion of an expert.PM for suggestions if you wish.
However just because you live in a conservation area, itdoes not follow that you MUST have timber. Happy to provide info if needed.
sashmanBuying quality goods which last, should be an investment that saves money. :T
Buying cheap products which fail, wastes money and costs twice as much in the long run. :mad:0
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