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Fitting window fire escape hinges

lagi
Posts: 590 Forumite
Just had the building inspector round and he would like me to change one of my window hinges to the means of escape/fire hinges. I have these on other windows so know what they are, how they work.
But just wondered, do i measure the length of the old ones (which are 15") and order a replacement of the same size (at a quick glance online they all seem 14" or 16") and just do a straight swap?
My other windows are much smaller so have different size hinges.
Will holes all line up the same, etc? is it easy to do hanging out of the window, or is it a bit of a pig job?
But just wondered, do i measure the length of the old ones (which are 15") and order a replacement of the same size (at a quick glance online they all seem 14" or 16") and just do a straight swap?
My other windows are much smaller so have different size hinges.
Will holes all line up the same, etc? is it easy to do hanging out of the window, or is it a bit of a pig job?
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Comments
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I've replaced worn hinges on small side opening windows and it was a two man job, one person up the ladder holding on to the window whilst one hinge was replaced at a time. There were lots of holes available on the hinge so most matched up, where they didn't we just ran in a new hole - the screws are self tapping. Be warned, windows are surprisingly heavy.0
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I would get a quote for someone (Joiner/Window Man) to come and replace the hinges in accordance with the guidance from the building inspector.
If the hinges fail inspection, you have someone to go back to.
I would really not want to be working at height, trying to carry out a DIY job with the wife/son struggling to hold an item whilst fine adjustments are made, using a guide from youtube or so.0 -
Thanks, looks like i am going to need another strong pair of hands and a ladder, am collecting the hinge tomorrow so hopefully a weekend job.
Didn't realize we needed a man outside, would you suggest changing the top or bottom one first?0 -
If you are lucky your window may be internally glazed. If so remove the beading, then the glass. This will make the sash part so much lighter and safer as well. Change the hinges and reglaze etc.0
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It is internally glazed, but don't have one of them glazing tools to remove the beading.
But even if i can remove the glazing, what is the procedure, do you remove the window and fit the hinges to it then put back, fitting it to the frame.
Or do you fit hinges to the frame first then fit the window. Also if this way, do you do top or bottom first?0 -
How big is the opening part? As I said above, these things are heavy - especially when at the top of a ladder. Removing the glass first will make the job a lot easier. I'm sure any necessary tools will be cheaper than replacing the whole window after its been dropped.0
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Just picked up the hinge from the window place and asked what way they would do it.
Was advised to remove the beading, then glass. Then undo the sash (must be the technical term) from the frame. Then i can do a straight swap and line up the holes. Then fix it back into the frame as this only sits one place. Check all ok, fit glass and beading back.
So going to have to take the glass out.
With the glass out, does this now become a one man internal job or still needing two and a ladder?0 -
Yes it should be a one man job. Getting the beading out is a straightforward task using a wood chisel ( a hard plastic ice scraper is also an option). Pray that the glass hasn't been siliconed in place. Take care when replacing the beading that you don't break the glass.0
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Getting the beading out is a straightforward task using a wood chisel ( a hard plastic ice scraper is also an option). Pray that the glass hasn't been siliconed in place. Take care when replacing the beading that you don't break the glass.
OP : This is true, but you could try using a wallpaper scraper inserted into seam between beading and surround, and then tapping, (quite hard) with a rubber mallet, in the direction you want the beading to move. (i.e. if beading is on the right, tap it to the left. Best to start in the middle of beading)
Replace beading using wooden block tapped with mallet. (Best to insert the end of beading first, then other end, and tap the rest in gradually)0 -
Update: Beading came out pretty easy with small (more rigid) wallpaper scraper. Sides first then top and bottom. Removed glazing. Unscrewed window from frame, lifted inside. Swapped hinges in a like for like position on the window. Then had to get second pair of hands to help hold in position to fit screws in top hinge. Once all screwed in, checked window for opening/closing. Then refitted glazing. Bottom beading, top beading, then left and right, with the side ones fitting the 2 end pieces in first creating a slight bend and then pushing in the middle to seat. Never needed a mallet, could do it all with fingers and pushing.
Anyone thinking of changing the hinges for a safety point of view, worth doing and would say for a first timer approx 2 hours maximum.
Thanks for all the advice, another job completed.0
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