thermostat problem?

shaun40400

thanks norman castle
so working from your post the rear bleed screw if their is one should be housed in or near the heater (which is buried under a bulk head and seat)but is accessible
engine end bleed screw should be near the radiator

engine is cold as its not been ran today
so take top off coolent top up bottle then bleed from tap top again

then do a warm engine test which will either show the air lock ,
let cool and top up,
or i have a broken stat,which will need replacing

Foxy-Stoat_3

You can bleed the system with the engine running, just not upto proper operating temperature.

Removing the rad/coolant cap is a no no with a fully warmed up engine tho.

Sounds like whatever has been fitted after it rolled out the factory should be ripped out and put back to standard.

s_b

putting the coolant system under pressure raises the boiling point so depending on where your coolant cap is it might be easier to run up to temperature with the cap off so the thermostat opens but you have no worries about boiling water under pressure when you bleed

i would agree too that if you do not need this extra plumbing i would be inclined to remove it because you might only be able to get rid of a possible airlock by filling the system under pressure albeit cold pressure and this basically would be easier for a garage to do with something like a mitivac

shaun40400

Foxy-Stoat wrote: »

You can bleed the system with the engine running, just not upto proper operating temperature .ok

Removing the rad/coolant cap is a no no with a fully warmed up engine tho.obviously but thanks

Sounds like whatever has been fitted after it rolled out the factory should be ripped out and put back to standard.

trying to upload a photo when i can find it,,,

it could be looped back on its self by joining the rear pipes so cutting of the heater

i cant find a bleed screw as such,,, but their is a pipe with a metal stopper in it ,coming of one the hoses from the block

shaun40400

top photo -shows the adapted double hose housing from above
middle-the broken joiner
last-you can see the spare metal ended hose just above the red battery terminal two ring clips and a end stud/

s_b

you can i cant even when blown right up on opera:D
the one thats capped i wouldnt touch that one
consider joining those pipes you mentioned and run the engine up with the cap off and see if that helps a self bleed if there arent any bleed points
i should have added change the thermostat for peace of mind and more heat in the cab too

mikey72

I usually fill things like the heater matrix with the pipes disconnected, with a hose if I need to, then reconnect and fill the rest of the system, adding antifreeze halfway.
If there is some air left in, I let it warm up gently, build up a bit of pressure, then crack off the pipes or bleed valves. Don't let it get so hot you scald yourself though.

Last one I had I actually had to fill with a 2 litre bottle and a tube into the bleed valve, nothing else would fill it enough to even risk starting the engine.

shaun40400

too dark to it now as its on the street
i will follow up tomorrow and post my success or defeat ;-)

shaun40400

just a quick update and thankyou

sprang another leak old pipes new fluid?

anyway ran the engine from cold with the bottle top off and topped up twice
we now have heat in the wagon and it seams to be behaving itself
having said that ive only done 3 local runs
thanks again