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Which tow vehicle for every day use?
Comments
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x3 bmw would be my choice if someone else was paying0
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If someone else was paying I'd have one would prefer an x5 but i doubt you would be able to get 30mpg from one.
so whats your input on the subject then0 -
Is it freshwater? Least you won't have salt rust issues. What loch is it out of interest?
No chance of effective and proper launching and retrieving with anything other than keeping the trailer hitched to the vehicle.
Most guys I know use a mix of modern 4x4's, but I couldn't comment on the most cost effective. I'd try and go for a generally reliable car first and foremost as they will all tow 1200kg plus trailer and accessories.
I used to tow an 800kg boat, 100kg engine plus trailer and bits (around 1400kg tot) with a 1.6 astra, but that was before I knew the error of my ways! Lauched on sea slips in general.
I now drive a transit T350 for work and tow up to 2500kg gross and it's a breeze. Good ground clearance too, worth it if you don't mind a van!0 -
Do it the Aussie way (it actually works really well):
line trailer and vehicle perfectly up on slip road
undo all tie down straps, make sure boat is ready to float off the trailer
reverse at high speed towards water
as soon as the trailer is fully submerged (roughly when the vehicle hits the water), slam the brakes on hard
boat will roll off the trailer and into the water
To retrieve boat the American way:
have someone reverse the trailer into the water so it is partially submerged
line the boat up with the trailer
apply power
you should get enough of the boat onto the trailer for friction to hold it on there while the other person drives the trailer out of the water.
Works a treat every time0 -
Notmyrealname wrote: »It'd need to be on the trailer otherwise it'd be a nightmare to reverse. Length of square box section several inches longer than you want to extend. Weld tow hitch on to one end. Drill big hole horizontally all the way through it 4" in from both ends.
Where the original two hitch was you'd need to weld in a 6" long length of box section big enough to go over the first and at a position where the long bit could slide in and out to its full length. Again drill a hole in the middle.
How you'd use it in normal towing is you'd have it pushed all the way in with a big pin going through the holed to lock it in place. When you want to reverse it down the sliproad and want the extra length then pull the pin out and slide the bar forward until the rear holes line up and then put the pin back in. To make it easier to move you could even put the trailer brake on, take the pin out and then drive forward to pull it out. Weld a stop on the end so you don't pull it all the way out.
I can picture what you mean, the problem is the boat has a winch post and with the elevated position you'd need for the 6" section there would be no room to slide the 4" way back in. The keel is already sitting at the same level as the current hitch. I'll need to have another good look at the boat trailer and see if there is a way to attach something either side of the winch post.0 -
glasgowdan wrote: »Is it freshwater? Least you won't have salt rust issues. What loch is it out of interest?0
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andrew-the-cat wrote: »Do it the Aussie way (it actually works really well):
line trailer and vehicle perfectly up on slip road
undo all tie down straps, make sure boat is ready to float off the trailer
reverse at high speed towards water
as soon as the trailer is fully submerged (roughly when the vehicle hits the water), slam the brakes on hard
boat will roll off the trailer and into the water0
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