How to alter pipework with Oil central heating?

milliemonster

We are in the middle of having a multi fuel stove and inglenook fitted, previously there was an electric inset fire fitted flush to the wall with no surround, so the chap that is doing the work has started today by knocking all the brickwork out to open up the fireplace.

We live in a 1930's house so the fireplace has opened up quite nicely however, the stumbling block we have found is the central heating copper pipes that run along the back of the fireplace from one side, but instead of straight through the other side, they bend 90 degrees towards the front of the fireplace and then bend 90 degrees again through the wall and into the front of the base of a built in bookcase in the alcove, then through that at 90 degrees again into the radiator under the window.

The pipework is too high up above the base to hide under what will be the new hearth so we have 3 options, one is to leave them on display which would look unsightly so I don't want that, 2 is to bring the sides of the new inglenook in by building around them, there is space to do this within the regulations. Thirdly is to alter the pipework to remove the 90 degree bends and take the pipes straight through along the back of the fireplace into the back of the alcove and then put a new bend into the radiator from there.

But, we have oil fired central heating and hubby is unsure if there is away of doing this without having to drain the whole system down does anyone know? He mentioned something about a kit that allows you to freeze the pipe either side of where you are going to cut it so you can create new joins without having to shut down the system, does anyone have any advice on this?

ormus

the simplest way is to drain the system and alter the pipes into a straight run.
the freezing kits are expensive and not very good either.

the oil fired boiler is neither here nor there.

Canucklehead

Hi.

I have, very occasionally, used this kit very sucessfully.

If the system is large, open vented and perhaps prone to air locking on refilling then you might consider using this to fit isolating valves in the pipework (if they can be hidden) to allow you to work on the affected run. It sounds like just one rad on this run of pipework?


GSR.

keystone

Canucklehead wrote: »

I have, very occasionally, used this kit very sucessfully.

What happened on the other occasions? No its OK I can guess.

Cheers

G_M

The source of power for the boiler (mains gas, oil, LPG etc) is totally irrelevant.

You have pipes with hot water flowing from boiler to rads.

Either you
a) drain those pipes of water
b) freeze the pipes and hope you freezed them properly/ complete the work before they thaw
c) cut them, catch the water as it escapes, and work bl**dy fast!

southcoastrgi

ormus wrote: »

the simplest way is to drain the system and alter the pipes into a straight run.
the freezing kits are expensive and not very good either.

the oil fired boiler is neither here nor there.

i agree the bottle type ones aren't very good, i bought one in a case £150 you attach it to a set of scales to make sure you are using the correct amount of gas, b1oody nitemare,

i now use an electric pipe freezer, brilliant bit of kit cost me £750 but i can leave it on all day & have even used it to do a boiler change without draining the system.

southcoastrgi

keystone wrote: »

What happened on the other occasions? No its OK I can guess.

Cheers

classic, KS you are on form tonight lol