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Are all car battery chargers pretty much the same?
Comments
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You made sure there was a good thermally conductive path between the board and the inside of the plastic base as well?
Took the board out and washed all the flux residue off?
You'd be better off lacquering the pcb as well.
If the case get's hot, there has to be at least some thermal conductivity to that case, therefore removing that heat allows further thermal conductivity into the case (and out to the plate), thus cooling the device. The heat has to go somewhere..... Yeah I could open it up and heatsink all the transistors, regulators, diodes and power resistors, but it's just not THAT necessary.
I suspect though, that as only the bottom of the case gets hot, it's probably got an aluminium backed PCB to disperse the heat and it's probably designed such that mounting it to a wall would help to keep it cool.“I may not agree with you, but I will defend to the death your right to make an a** of yourself.”
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As your battery is only a year old and appears to be a superior model I don't understand why it needs so much charging from an external source. I have an XJ8 which is used only infrequently and its battery is 9 years old but has never needed external charging. Do you have a current leak somewhere? Disconnect the battery earth lead and place a multimeter set to current measuring mode between battery and battery lead - with everything switched off there should be zero current apart from that drawn by the clock which should be miniscule [probably in the milliamp. range].0
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As your battery is only a year old and appears to be a superior model I don't understand why it needs so much charging from an external source. I have an XJ8 which is used only infrequently and its battery is 9 years old but has never needed external charging. Do you have a current leak somewhere? Disconnect the battery earth lead and place a multimeter set to current measuring mode between battery and battery lead - with everything switched off there should be zero current apart from that drawn by the clock which should be miniscule [probably in the milliamp. range].
Should be less than 200mA, this was (IIRC) the required standard for new cars around 2005/2006. This would drain the average car battery fully within 15 days. Most cars are a LONG way below that limit and should last weeks/months provided the battery is in good health and fully charged.“I may not agree with you, but I will defend to the death your right to make an a** of yourself.”
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Strider590 wrote: »If the case get's hot, there has to be at least some thermal conductivity to that case, therefore removing that heat allows further thermal conductivity into the case (and out to the plate), thus cooling the device. The heat has to go somewhere..... Yeah I could open it up and heatsink all the transistors, regulators, diodes and power resistors, but it's just not THAT necessary.
I suspect though, that as only the bottom of the case gets hot, it's probably got an aluminium backed PCB to disperse the heat and it's probably designed such that mounting it to a wall would help to keep it cool.
I doubt it.
Copper with a bit of tin plate and churned out by the millions in china.
Conidering they sit on the bench, base down, 999 times out of a 1000, it would be a tad foolish to design it to dissipate heat though it's bottom. Then make it out of plastic.
You'd have though big fins on top would have been thermally better really?0 -
You'd have though big fins on top would have been thermally better really?
Not on a commercially available consumer grade product
It definitely dissipates heat through the base, it has to have been designed this way, it can't be an accident. Who know's, it may even have a flat heatsink in the base, with the hottest components bolted to it.....
*yawn*“I may not agree with you, but I will defend to the death your right to make an a** of yourself.”
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Strider590 wrote: »Not on a commercially available consumer grade product
It definitely dissipates heat through the base, it has to have been designed this way, it can't be an accident. Who know's, it may even have a flat heatsink in the base, with the hottest components bolted to it.....
*yawn*
Bit like the way they design a hoptplate?
*yawn*
You should keep away from anything more complicated than a spoon.
*yawn*
but enough, the op has probably given up and bought something he doesn't have to take apart, clean, lacquer, bolt heatsinks to, and gone to halfords and bought something you can take out of the box and just plug in.0 -
britishboy wrote: »So the higher the Amp rating of the charger, the faster it will charge a battery? Seen lots of 6Amp ones online, can you get any higher?
The one at the garage I worked at would do ten times that.0 -
Bit like the way they design a hoptplate?
lol... what? Heating element, thermostat and whopping thick piece of metal?
But useful for de-soldering the aforementioned aluminium backed PCB's!
*yawn*
You should keep away from anything more complicated than a spoon.
.
"There is no spoon" :cool:“I may not agree with you, but I will defend to the death your right to make an a** of yourself.”
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Gents
Right, went out thi afternoon to use the car, hasnt bee nstarted for 8 days, last used in last monday for about 2 hours continual driving, with nothing on unneccessary (no lights, radio, heater, seats etc), so id of thought that would put a decent enough charge back in it after Mr AA jump started me the day before (last Sunday). Earlier the central locking unlocked, but key in ignition and it wouldnt turn (something it does when battery is low).
Surely the 2 hr use I gave it would of put enough life back in it, or not enough to be fully charged? Like I said its a new battery (well, 1 year old) and cost a lot, used it all last winter no probs, all last year, small journeys no probs but had 3 or 4 times the last month where it wouldnt start? Do i need to give it a proper charge, a long one to fully charge the battery?0 -
britishboy wrote: »Surely the 2 hr use I gave it would of put enough life back in it, or not enough to be fully charged? Like I said its a new battery (well, 1 year old) and cost a lot, used it all last winter no probs, all last year, small journeys no probs but had 3 or 4 times the last month where it wouldnt start? Do i need to give it a proper charge, a long one to fully charge the battery?
Depends on the condition of your alternator and also bare in mind that 2 hours with the heater/AC, headlights, wipers, etc on will barely put a starting charge back into it.
This is another reason why jump starting is a bad idea, your battery should be fully charged before starting the vehicle.... When you buy a new battery, the little destruction booklet always states this.
Finally, are you sure the boot light (for example) isn't on constantly?“I may not agree with you, but I will defend to the death your right to make an a** of yourself.”
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