Coving

von

Hi,

I'm not very experienced with DIY but is it difficult to put up coving? Do I need a special implement for cutting the corners (of the coving that is)? Can anyone give me any guidance on how to do it :think:and what sort should i buy?

Leif

It is not difficult, assuming you have a reasonable degree of common sense, and care.

I put up plaster coving which I bought in 3m lengths, I used a plastic mitre block from B&Q, a wood saw to cut it, and Gyproc coving cement. I also used a couple of trestles placed alongside the wall to stand on. It is not particularly hard as long as you think about what you are doing, measure twice, and take care. I drew pencil line to mark where the coving was to go, to make sure I put it in the right place. Joints do not have to be perfect as you can fill with cement. Once I had put a piece in place, and pressed it firmly against the wall, I went round the edges making sure the gaps were filled with cement, I used a scraper to remove excess cement from the edges, and then wiped the edges with a slightly damp sponge to remove cement on the wall and coving surface. (Careful as it can soften and pull off the paper covering.)

For a wall that was longer than the coving, I found it best to put up the short piece first, and then the long piece, as it is easier to adjust the position of the long piece to get a neat join.

You should make sure the surface is prepared. So if the walls are painted, I'd strip the paint where the coving is to go, and then score the area with a craft knife to ensure good grip. I found that a good layer of adhesive on the edges of the coving was enough for it to stick without using nails, or any other support. It just needed pressing firmly into place. And a thick layer of adhesive will allow for repositioning, if trying to do a tricky join.

There is a good video on You Tube from Gyproc, just ignore the naff 'music'.

I was very pleased with the end result, except a few months later I now have some cracks along the edges, mainly in the coving that was already in place before I moved in. So clearly it is not my fault, must be changes in temperature.

Plasterer

Internal/external corners can be a head scratcher for a novice, ie, cut backwards (upside down) in block stood upright and cut etc etc. Having said this Ive seen a £5 coving mitre block in B&Q and on the back it has all the cuts demonstrated with illustrations - cant go wrong.
All in all coving is a peice of cake so you should be ok. :j

Also get the light weight polystyrene coving (THE ONE THAT IS PAPER LINED) easier to handle, however do not put too much pressure when fixing as you will dent it.

SailorSam

The most awkward thing i found was holding the coving in position until the adhesive held, i sorted this by putting a few small nails halfway in just under the coving into the wall and the same thing just above into the ceiling, once set they can be removed.
As Leif said any cuts don't need to be perfect, they're easy smoothed off with some filler.

bobthedambuilder

Cutting mitre joints has already been well covered above. Just be aware that there is a difference between an internal and external corner, and it's important which way up you put the piece to be cut if using one of the cheap plastic mitre blocks. Get your lefts and rights sorted. I like to give the cut ends a quick rub with sandpaper to take off any scraggy bits of paper surface.

Take off any wallpaper on the receiving surface, and score it (I use a stanley knife) for a good key. Put plenty of adhesive cement on the coving (I use the premixed stuff in tubs) - surplus will squeeze out, and you can remove this / fill any gaps etc using a putty knife or scraper. Clean off with a wet cloth (I also use an old paintbrush dipped in clean water).

The suggestion about holding up long lengths with a couple of small nails or pins under the coving is a good one. I usually take these out after 10-15 minutes, when the cement has taken good hold, and you can fill the little holes as you go.

I've always found it better to trim the square ends of a butt joint as well - the ends of the coving as bought can be damaged or off square. The mitre block usually has a square cut slot.

You can fill up to about 5mm if the joints don't come together exactly - once again the cement can do this, or polyfilla afterwards. Wipe over for a smooth surface, or you can sand off any imperfections with fine grade sandpaper when set (be careful with the paper surface on the coving).

loracan1

I used one of those little blue plastic coving gadgets from wickes, you hold the plastic triangle against the part you cut and slice along with your best kitchen knife - they were all perfect. (this doesn't work with plaster coving)