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Rooms doesnt get warm even heating is on and radiators are hot

manan.shah.82
Posts: 80 Forumite
Hello,
We recently moved in to a 1905 semi detached house and I have set the central thermostat to 22 (also the temp control in my combi boiler is set to full).
I have also set the thermostat valves to full and adjusted thelockshield valves so radiators get pretty hot but rooms are not getting warmer and feels like temp is below 10. :mad:
Radiators in hall are big so I don't think radiator capacity shouldn't be an issue. One reason I can think of is when I had damp treatment couple of month ago, I uplifted the carpet and when I placed it back I didn't put any underlay because I'm planning to replace the carpet with laminated floor...so at the moment carpet is directly above the concrete floor (when I'll lay laminate floor I'll put damp proof membrane and underlay as well) but can that reduce the warmness of the room?? I have also put the draught excluder on my front door.
Even my master bedroom on first floor doesn't feel warm (where we didn't have any damp treatment). My loft looks okish insulated so can't understand where all the heat is going on..
Just to let you know all the windows are double glazed.
Any suggestion or help will be much appreciated.
Thanks.
We recently moved in to a 1905 semi detached house and I have set the central thermostat to 22 (also the temp control in my combi boiler is set to full).
I have also set the thermostat valves to full and adjusted thelockshield valves so radiators get pretty hot but rooms are not getting warmer and feels like temp is below 10. :mad:
Radiators in hall are big so I don't think radiator capacity shouldn't be an issue. One reason I can think of is when I had damp treatment couple of month ago, I uplifted the carpet and when I placed it back I didn't put any underlay because I'm planning to replace the carpet with laminated floor...so at the moment carpet is directly above the concrete floor (when I'll lay laminate floor I'll put damp proof membrane and underlay as well) but can that reduce the warmness of the room?? I have also put the draught excluder on my front door.
Even my master bedroom on first floor doesn't feel warm (where we didn't have any damp treatment). My loft looks okish insulated so can't understand where all the heat is going on..
Just to let you know all the windows are double glazed.
Any suggestion or help will be much appreciated.
Thanks.
0
Comments
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Presumably your house has solid walls, so 45% of your heat is going straight through them... With no insulation on the floor, you're probably losing more than the average 13% that way, too but I'd say the walls are the main culprit0
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Hello littlesnuggy,
Thank you for your reply.
Yes I think you are right, house has solid wall (I had a look at the pattern of brick) and it's semi-detached house so apart from one side house is exposed from everywhere...(Energy Efficiency Rating is 57)..
Any Idea on how to insulate the cavity wall to reduce the heat loss? I was going through the Wicks site and come across "Polystyrene Insulation Board" which can be fitted on wall or ceiling...will that help?
Thanks once again.0 -
We live in a house like yours. It has a staircase on a gable wall that leaks heat through the gable like no ones business. We could board over the external wall but that is about it.
Maybe, it poss put a rad in & keep it on after that.Not Again0 -
manan.shah.82 wrote: »Energy Efficiency Rating is 57)...
I am no expert but a rating 57 is above the national average in terms of efficiency - doesn't help warm you up knowing that of course.
The key question, with a current rating 57, is what is the 'potential' rating? If it's 60 (say) you are probably better off buying a jumper than insulating.0 -
Hey Chuks,
I agree with you current rating is 57 and potential is 58 so not much room to improve.
I was reading about the solid wall insulation and they are really costly (5k to 8k for 3 bed semi-detached house) and as u mentioned potential energy effeciency is just 58 what's the point of insulating the solid wall at this cost..
Thanks for pointing this out.0 -
Hi,
do you have modern radiators, i say that because of the age of your house, as older radiators are very inneficient.
If they are the older type they may not be able to output enough energy to heat your home.
As a simple test, hold your hand above the radiator (not touching) if you can feel a good amount of heat then the radiators are ok. this is because older radiators do not have enough of an air gap between them to convect heat efficiently, also modern ones also have extra fins to increase their surface area.0 -
You are pretty much at max efficiency then so as stated any spend will have a (very, very) marginal effect. The price of living in an older house, I guess. Bet your has loads more character that my 1980s build.
What are your humidity levels like? A humid environment is supposed to 'feel' colder in winter and takes more energy to heat up. Might want to look at that. Frankly, I would go the jumper route - it is Christmas after all so an ideal item for the Xmas list!0
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