Installing a Catnic Lintel

Hi,

I have a Catnic CN6XB lintel that I need to install in a load bearing wall between the lounge and dining room in my 1930's semi. I have struct calcs as this was drawn up along with the rear extension that we are having in the new year and have spoken to Building control who are happy as long as we don't cover it over before they come out.
Now my questions are:
  • Does the lintel need to rest on a complete brick either side prior to mortar and any packing?
  • I have read that you should use slate to pack out between the final complete brick and the lintel but the gap to pack is about 40mm so is the slate just piled together then mortar top and bottom?
  • It's a box type lintel so does the flat side with no holes go at the top or bottom? I assume the to so bricks/mortar can be added!
Any help greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Comments

  • ormus
    ormus Posts: 42,714 Forumite
    1. nominal overlap of 150mm at each end.
    2. the use of slate combined with mortar is ok. you can use other non compressible materials too. ie steel. concrete.
    3. the holes go at the top.
    Get some gorm.
  • cyclonebri1
    cyclonebri1 Posts: 12,827 Forumite
    ormus wrote: »
    1. nominal overlap of 150mm at each end.
    2. the use of slate combined with mortar is ok. you can use other non compressible materials too. ie steel. concrete.
    3. the holes go at the top.


    As above :T, but when faced with an issue such as yours I have found that cutting a padstone, as they are called, from a solid concrete block or slab to the correct "height" is the most suitable option
    I like the thanks button, but ,please, an I agree button.

    Will the grammar and spelling police respect I do make grammatical errors, and have carp spelling, no need to remind me.;)

    Always expect the unexpected:eek:and then you won't be dissapointed
  • ormus wrote: »
    3. the holes go at the top.

    The top is the solid section to build off, the holes go at the bottom to give a key for plaster
  • Ideally you would build up the bearings (ie the bit of wall the lintel sits on) so that once in place the lintel has a 10mm mortar joint above and sits on a 10mm mortar joint at the bearing

    Packing up the bearing with 40mm of slate is not ideal
  • Thank you for all your replies. With my 1st question I was wondering if the minimum 150mm bearing needs to be on a full section of brick. i.e. not a part of a brick then mortar then the brick that carries on past the end of the lintel? I hope that makes sense....
    I have some garden slabs that would be ideal to pack out with but when I have read up online it said to pack out with slate but is that straight under the lintel or does mortar need to be between them and is this the same with slabs?
  • tony6403
    tony6403 Posts: 1,257 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    No the bearing doesn't need to be on full bricks .
    A cut off from a concrete slab would be very good for packing. Bed in with 3:1 mortar mix as described by iamcorn above. 10 mm is not crucial but get as near as poss.
    Forgotten but not gone.
  • cyclonebri1
    cyclonebri1 Posts: 12,827 Forumite
    tony6403 wrote: »
    No the bearing doesn't need to be on full bricks .
    A cut off from a concrete slab would be very good for packing. Bed in with 3:1 mortar mix as described by iamcorn above. 10 mm is not crucial but get as near as poss.

    As said, and as I said, cut a section from a concrete block/slab, the course underneath asuming standard construction is irrelevent
    I like the thanks button, but ,please, an I agree button.

    Will the grammar and spelling police respect I do make grammatical errors, and have carp spelling, no need to remind me.;)

    Always expect the unexpected:eek:and then you won't be dissapointed
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