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Pipes/Pump - Quiet with CH, Noisy with HW

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  • steve99
    steve99 Posts: 80 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10 Posts Combo Breaker
    What rad bleed valve will fit so snugly into a compression fitting as above ?
  • karl-123
    karl-123 Posts: 360 Forumite
    edited 29 November 2011 at 5:34PM
    remove the autoairvent :mad:

    if the existing fitting is already half inch female,
    simply screw a radiator bleed vent into it,
    its already got a rubber washer on it for the seal,

    screwed fittings are either,
    male or female,

    R RC RL RP

    R AND RC ARE TAPERED AND GO TOGETHER
    RL AND RP ARE PARALELL AND GO TOGETHER ( except on gas )

    however if they are mixed..this can cause splitting of
    the fitting, .........if ..........you overtighten.........

    http://www.screwfix.com/p/radiator-vent-blanking-plug-chrome-bsp/40972?_requestid=122599
  • [QUOTE
    There is an automatic air vent that is newly fitted and I have also taken the centre screw from the pump temporarily to remove any air I could. [/QUOTE]

    What is the make of this vent?

    Have you heard any air coming out of it?

    I don't think taking out a new auto air vent is going to help.

    GSR
    Ask to see CIPHE (Chartered Institute of Plumbing & Heating Engineering)
  • steve99
    steve99 Posts: 80 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10 Posts Combo Breaker
    It's from Toolstation. Some air has come out of it but not much. Any excess seems to go to the rads instead.
  • Hi,

    Any chance of a photo? (Of the cylinder pipework)


    One of the few things Karl has said that is useful is that it will clear in time.

    GSR
    Ask to see CIPHE (Chartered Institute of Plumbing & Heating Engineering)
  • I am not sure how to include the pictures directly in this post so I have put them here: http://s1084.photobucket.com/albums/j411/steve99uk/
  • keystone
    keystone Posts: 10,916 Forumite
    There should be no need to fit an auto air vent of any description to an open vented system. I can't see how changing it will affect your problem.

    You clearly have air in the primary circuit including the heating coil in the cylinder. As the AAV is on the CH circuit it won't help you with air in the primary.

    Adjusting the gate valve at the bottom of the cylinder will do nothing for you. (Assuming that you mean the valve I have labeled B in the pic below)

    aav.jpg

    That valve controls the supply of cold water from the cold water storage tank (the big one) into the bottom of the cylinder to be heated by the coil. This water doesn't mix with the water in the primary circuit under normal circumstances.

    Is the pipe I have labelled A your vent or your feed or is it a combined feed and vent? If its not combined where is the other one? Both should be on the inlet side of the pump. It may be possible that you are drawing air down the vent pipe. If that is the case then you will need to have a close look at the way it is piped as an adjustment may be necessary.

    However, since the problem has surfaced after you drained down the system I think it is more likely that you do have air trapped in the primary because you drained it. In due time the air will dissipate as has been suggested already.

    Cheers
    The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has it's limits. - Einstein
  • remove autoairvent,

    replace with half inch radiator vent plug,

    screwfix sell them..........

    turn off power and switch 3 way mid position valve to manual when filling,

    bye............
  • steve99
    steve99 Posts: 80 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10 Posts Combo Breaker
    edited 1 December 2011 at 8:24PM
    The gate valve that keystone marked as B in the picture is definitely on the return from the coil. I am not sure if pipe A is the vent but that pipe is connected to the one that is the inlet to the pump.

    aav.jpg



    I have decided to replace the AAV with a manual one and did purchase it from Screwfix today. I know that the vent is on the CH circuit but I plan to turn off all of the rads and then switch on the CH and HW in the hope that this will force any air in the HW circuit into the CH circuit and then out through my manual valve.

    I appreciate that there is no simple answer but as it's getting cold I don't want to drain down and flush the system just in case of any problems. I will probably do that next summer and I wish that I had done all of my lockshield replacement in June rather than November !

    Thanks to everyone who has taken the time to advise me.
  • bump!

    did you get it fixed??
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