Extension cables

undaunted

espresso wrote: »

Absolute rubbish!

A 13A fuse is rated to carry 13A continuously. A fuse only blows when excessive current flows though it.

What fuse would you suggest is used for 3kW appliances e.g. heaters etc.

Posting incorrect information is not helpful.

Whilst I'd accept that a 13amp fuse may not blow if only the fire was used on the extension lead that's seems a bit harsh to me.

The original post you are slating was reasoned & helpful in the main.

I would suggest the biggest danger of using a 13a fire with an extension lead is that some "bright spark" will start adding to the other sockets & then the fuse will blow if they are lucky (if it doesn't melting the extension could be the least of their worries)

espresso

undaunted wrote: »

Whilst I'd accept that a 13amp fuse may not blow if only the fire was used on the extension lead that's seems a bit harsh to me.

The original post you are slating was reasoned & helpful in the main.

I would suggest the biggest danger of using a 13a fire with an extension lead is that some "bright spark" will start adding to the other sockets & then the fuse will blow if they are lucky (if it doesn't melting the extension could be the least of their worries)

This poster has already demonstrated that they have very little electrical knowledge in this thread here and therefore should not be giving electrical advice.

DocProc wrote: »

If the oven merely "plugs into a 13amp socket on an existing ring main" - then Yes.

At 3000 watts of power and 250 volts, this will require a current of 12 amps (3000/250=12)

As against an electric cooker, which can have four electric rings running at the same time as the oven is on, which might say, be using a total of 5000 watts of power. At 250 volts this will require a current of 20amps. (5000/250 = 20)

Obviously, a ring main doesn't want stuff plugging into it that is going to use say, more than about 10-12 amps because it will trip out or alternatively it will most likely blow the 13 amp fuse in the item's plug.

This is why electric cookers usually have a Cooker Control Unit on the wall nearby, which will also function at a higher than 13 amp current rating.

Does not have a clue!

grahamc2003

DocProc wrote: »

The formula is 3,000 watts/240volts = roughly 12 amps.

12 amps? Wow! This is highly likely to even blow a 13 amp fuse in the plug, isn't it?

)

But 12 amps is the rms current. Any idea what the peak current is, and why the fuse doesn't blow?

The notional UK voltage is 230v btw.

The op could always make 2x2way extentions from the sawn in half 4way, and flog off the spare on ebay, probably at a profit.

Don't they sell these things at the pound shop? (Unsawn ones I mean, not sawn up ones)?

(Please don't try to saw up a 4 way extension.
At least not while it's plugged in).

moonrakerz

DocProc wrote: »

And of course, if you ran a 3 kW electric fire from a "5 amp extension reel" and didn't unwind the cable inside the reel, then it would definitely melt the cable. (and if you don't believe me, then try it and see what happens. )

What a load of ..................

If it is a "5 amp extension reel" the cable wouldn't "melt" - the fuse would blow - that is why we have fuses.

.....and as for "try it and see" .............words fail me !!!!

Cardew

moonrakerz wrote: »

.....and as for "try it and see" .............words fail me !!!!

The expression 'Tune for maximum smoke' comes to mind!

undaunted

I'm not an electrician so wouldn't know anything about or want to advise upon ring mains myself.

However for the none electricians amongst us I looked at my own 4 way reel type extension. It's still labelled as supplied new & says it has a 13amp fuse but it's a 10 amp wire.

I therefore presume that if I plugged say the kettle into it for long enough to boil I might get away with that but if I were to plug a 3kw electric fire into this particular extension the 13 amp fuse could well be fine but the 10 amp wire would be stretched & could potentially soon overheat & catch fire? :eek:

Isn't that basically what docproc was getting at?

JimmyTheWig

No-one (particularly the OP) has suggested the OP gets an extension cord on a reel, so I think that's a slight red herring.
As a general rule I would always fully unwind a reel before using it.

As to the original question, there's no reason not to get a 4-way. As has been said, it will be cheaper because it's more common. It would be like trying to buy a 400ml bottle of Coke. While it might be possible to buy, I bet a 500ml one would be cheaper.

The only thing I'm slightly worried about is if this second freezer is outside or in a damp shed. If so, do you know what you're doing?

moonrakerz

undaunted wrote: »

However for the none electricians amongst us I looked at my own 4 way reel type extension. It's still labelled as supplied new & says it has a 13amp fuse but it's a 10 amp wire.

If it has a 13 amp fuse it will be 13 amp (or more) "wire". The complete unit will be rated at less than that, because (with the cable on the reel) it will overheat. Hence most things of this type should have a thermal cut out fitted to the reel.

See, as an example - note max loads quoted:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Masterplug-MCT1010-4R-MS-4-Socket-Cassette/dp/tech-data/B001D4PSUY/ref=de_a_smtd

I bet you didn't read ALL the notes/warnings that came with it ...............

bungle4by4

this thread could be nominated for ' internet forum "expert" bullshot of the year '

SYNERGY

I bet you didn't read ALL the notes/warnings that came with it ...............

Much like a neighbour didn't with their high powered vac.

Knock at my door " Come quick, my new vac went bang and has started smoking ". :eek:

Well yes it would if you don't completely pull out the cable, as it says in the ' destructions ' and spend half an hour or so de-dusting a load of ornaments. :rotfl:

Correct, it wasn't covered by the guarantee