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Are we allowed to install out own electric oven?
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Model number and/or rating (sticker with number of Watts) might be useful.0
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It's a Neff BP15P42
3.55 watts
Thanks everyone, bit worried about him doing it!0 -
if he does this job himself, and he needs to wire the oven in, then when he makes the connections. make sure they are tight, and then check again that they are tight.
when you've done that, just give them a little nip, to make sure they are tight.0 -
marypalmer wrote: »It's a Neff BP15P42
3.55 watts
Thanks everyone, bit worried about him doing it!
I think you mean 3.55kw (3,550 watts)! It will draw in excess of 15A at full load, so it requires wiring into a proper cooker connection point.No free lunch, and no free laptop0 -
I think you mean 3.55kw (3,550 watts)! It will draw in excess of 15A at full load, so it requires wiring into a proper cooker connection point.
Right, does that need an electrician or is it easy to do? If I have to get an electrician, will it be expensive?
Never had a new oven before!0 -
it depends, how is you old oven connected? is it wired in, or just on a normal 3 pin plug?0
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I fitted a new oven in my kitchen and I am colour blind :eek:
I made sure that I left the old one in place until I got the new one home and then checked the wiring to be sure they were both the same, I disconnected the old one then connected the new one with the wires going to the same place and then screwed it into place.
It was on an individual circuit so I knew that with all the controls off, when I switched it on either the clock would work or the fuse would trip.
Job done0 -
Yep, the old was was a normal 3 pin plug, so we'll probably get someone in.
Thanks all0 -
I fitted a new oven in my kitchen and I am colour blind :eek:
I made sure that I left the old one in place until I got the new one home and then checked the wiring to be sure they were both the same, I disconnected the old one then connected the new one with the wires going to the same place and then screwed it into place.
It was on an individual circuit so I knew that with all the controls off, when I switched it on either the clock would work or the fuse would trip.
Job done
If you are colour blind, it may be as well to get someone to check that you have got the live and neutral connected correctly.
If you transpose the brown and blue, everything will still work, including the clock.
However if they are transposed it will leave components that should be ' dead ' when switched off ' live '. :eek:0
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