Ford Focus problems

adriandilly

rodenal wrote: »

I can't see why they think the test isn't worthwhile - it will tell you whether the sensor is reading the correct values and the cat is gone or if ithe sensor itself is duff. Sounds to me like they are taking the code as gospel and just looking to change the sensor

Another way to check would be to check the outputs from the sensor itself, if the garage has a decent obd tool it should be able to read this without problem, you can even do it yourself with a decent digital multimeter. If the sensor is working properly you should see the voltage switching quickly when the car is warm - if it stays as a linear line that indicates a problem with the sensor.

*edit - could be an idea to look on some ford forums and see if anyone near you would be willing to run the codes through and check the lambda outputs for you. Another idea could be to ring up some mot only places and ask for the cost of an emissions test only*

Yeah, I'll get a multimeter under there when I get a chance. So I just need to disconnect a wiring plug? Or somehow measure whilst it is still connected? I can even get an oscilloscope on it. How fast should it oscillate?
It probably doesn't have anything to do with the problem, but before the problem started I removed the resonator box off of the side of the airbox, because I wanted it to sound louder :cool: That wouldn't affect the emissions would it? I would assume the engine would constantly adjust due to the airflow sensor anyway?

rodenal

Unlikely to have done anything - Not sure on the values for the focus but on my e36 the lambda fluctuated between 1.45v very quickly - on the mr2 I'm sure it was 1.7v. The key thing seems to be to make sure it switches on and off rather than giving a constant signal.

Just piggy back from one of the connectors, should be easy enough

atrixblue.-MFR-.

jeees if a garage has a decent fault code reader they can monitor the lamda sensors with a live reading, !!!!!!, why have garages have to be so god damn awkward these days, if i asked for a emission test id get one, if i asked for a live reading i'd get one with my local indi, i instruct they follow, not the otherway round.

adriandilly

I've found some new information by doing a few checks on my car today

I disconnected the top sensor (Green connector), turned on engine and got code P0135 within about 2 mins
Oxygen O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1, Sensor 1)

I reconnected the green one, cleared the code and then disconnected the blue connector (accessed from underneath the car) turned on engine and got code P0141 also within a couple of minutes
Oxygen O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1, Sensor 2)

From this I assume that both sensors are at least working to some degree

I plugged in a code reader and got the following information in menu 3 (I/M)
MIL OFF, MISFIRE READY, FUEL READY, CCM READY, CAT NOT RDY, HCM N/A, EVAP N/A, 2AIR N/A, A/C N/A, O2S NOT RDY, HO2S NOT RDY, EGR N/A

Why would CAT, O2S and HO2S not be ready?
Am I homing in on the problem or would they all come up as not ready because I've just disconnected and reconnected them?

Thanks

rodenal

Codes are likely to have been caused by the fuelling lambda that you unplugged, if you want to check clear them all then endure they aren't there and repeat what you've done. The post cat lambda does nothing other than measure so wont have caused them.

if you have a code reader can you not check the live logs to look at sensor voltage? It may well be doing something but still be a problem

adriandilly

rodenal wrote: »

if you have a code reader can you not check the live logs to look at sensor voltage? It may well be doing something but still be a problem

I'm now ebaying to try and find a new bluetooth diagnostic adaptor to go with my android software. I had one of the cheap ones from China (ELM327) and that worked on my Civic, on an Astra and on a VW Lupo but with Fords it wouldn't play ball

I'm wondering if this one will do the job?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Torque-Android-OBD-OBD2-Diagnostic-Code-Reader-Scanner-Bluetooth-Interface-/380375128264?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item58901fd8c8

rodenal

In all honesty the cheap bluetooth adapters are almost all the same thing so can't really help you with what to buy. As mentioned earlier ford may have their own protocols that only a more sophisticated , i.e expensive bit of kit can access. Have you tried ford forums for info?

rodenal

Is it torque you are using btw? There are various settings for the adapter you can try to improve the communications with different vehicles. Might be worth playing around with if you haven't already

adriandilly

rodenal wrote: »

Is it torque you are using btw? There are various settings for the adapter you can try to improve the communications with different vehicles. Might be worth playing around with if you haven't already

Yes it is Torque, I'm 75% sure I played about with all types of settings.. but I may have missed something.. I'll download it again off the Market and have a quick look

adriandilly

I no longer have the adaptor, I sold it when I realised it wasn't working with Fords, so I can't access/try out all the options. I'll keep doing Ford Protocol research!!