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Warm Air Boiler Questions

2

Comments

  • westv
    westv Posts: 6,493 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    Can't even see where a pilot light should be and the inside of the unit looks nothing like the diagrams I've found on the net for exactly the same model number.
  • westv
    westv Posts: 6,493 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    OK its a few years old but it isnt exactly prehistoric..!

    Trust me - it prehistoric! :D
  • westv
    westv Posts: 6,493 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    westv wrote: »
    Can't even see where a pilot light should be and the inside of the unit looks nothing like the diagrams I've found on the net for exactly the same model number.

    Found it. Well I think I've found it. It's behind a flap that slides up.
  • C_Mababejive
    C_Mababejive Posts: 11,668 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    westv wrote: »
    I've looked at all the door vents/loft hatch vent and they all look clear. I assume with that and getting a CM detector I should be safe?
    There should be a vent to supply fresh air from direct to outside by some means.

    I would not leave it 2 or 3 years for servicing. I'd leave it 18 months maximum.

    Make sure you engage someone who is familiar with warm air units and has that endorsement on his GSR card.

    Install a CM alarm.

    See
    http://www.hse.gov.uk/press/2010/coi-ldn-1806.htm
    Feudal Britain needs land reform. 70% of the land is "owned" by 1 % of the population and at least 50% is unregistered (inherited by landed gentry). Thats why your slave box costs so much..
  • westv
    westv Posts: 6,493 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    There should be a vent to supply fresh air from direct to outside by some means.

    I would not leave it 2 or 3 years for servicing. I'd leave it 18 months maximum.

    Make sure you engage someone who is familiar with warm air units and has that endorsement on his GSR card.

    Install a CM alarm.

    See
    http://www.hse.gov.uk/press/2010/coi-ldn-1806.htm

    Would the vent in the loft hatch be the vent to outside?

    Ok about the servicing. I might get someone in before winter rather than waiting until March next year mentioned on the sticker.

    Yes, I meant an alarm not a detector.
  • westv wrote: »
    Would the vent in the loft hatch be the vent to outside?

    Wouldn't have thought so, it should be in the same room. Mine is a circular one about 5" across about 1 ft above floor level.
  • ollski
    ollski Posts: 943 Forumite
    westv wrote: »
    Would the vent in the loft hatch be the vent to outside?

    possibly, we have some around here which are. Most of the ones local to me are vented in the loft via an adjustable intake on the return air duct. I hate them....and have had one!
  • westv
    westv Posts: 6,493 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    moonrakerz wrote: »
    Wouldn't have thought so, it should be in the same room. Mine is a circular one about 5" across about 1 ft above floor level.

    The boiler is in a cupboard in the hallway. The loft hatch is right next to it and underneath the boiler cupboard there's a vent at near ground level.
  • moonrakerz
    moonrakerz Posts: 8,650 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    westv wrote: »
    The boiler is in a cupboard in the hallway. The loft hatch is right next to it and underneath the boiler cupboard there's a vent at near ground level.

    I get a little concerned over how some of these warm air systems may have been installed by the builder. That is why I would suggest you get a man who is J & S "trained" to check the whole thing out if you are not sure of how it should work.

    When you say "boiler", the first thing to say that it isn't a boiler it just heats the air - unless you have a stand alone Janus water heater installed in the same cabinet.

    The warm air unit should have an "adequate" supply of combustion air to it. This air is solely for the main burners, it is not used for house heating. There should be a vent near (same room) to this unit to allow fresh air from outside of the house to reach the unit. This is a VERY important supply, if there isn't enough air for complete combustion there is a risk of CO poisoning.
    The photo of my unit in the kitchen, shows the grilles on the unit AND on the cupboard it is housed in. There is a vent in the opposite kitchen wall to the outside to allow fresh air in. The air that goes in through these grilles is used in the burners and goes out into the flue and up the chimney.

    The air for heating the house is heated inside the unit in a heat exchanger and is then fed through trunking to warm air vents in the rooms. In my case, in the floor on the ground floor and just above the shirting boards upstairs. Every room should have some means to allow the air to exit the room and be fed back to the heating unit to be re-heated. I have grilles above the doors in every room (except the kitchen, so that air in the kitchen is "burnt" and not re-circulated, thus preventing cooking smells being spread round the house - this system works VERY well) and a large grille in the landing ceiling which takes the air back through trunking to the unit to be re-heated.
    (See grilles in second photo)

    1zx845v.jpg

    21lqycy.jpg

    Hope that helps you..............
  • westv
    westv Posts: 6,493 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    As far as I can see all the original venting is still in place so presumably, after all these years, it's all ok. The only rooms without vents above the door are the kitchen (off of the lounge and it doesn't have its own warm air vent anyway) and bathroom.
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