Knocking through rooms

moonpenny

I am wanting to knock through from the kitchen to an outhouse (which is the same width as the kitchen) to make an eating area.

Because it is a small area (7ft 6 x 6 ft), I have been advised it would be quite costly for the added space I would get.

The concrete floor would have to be dug up to comply with building regs on insulation etc, plus work on the ceiling and of course the walls as well.

Apparently, the same rules don't apply if you have a door instead of it knocked through so, that is what I am thinking of doing.

Double doors as wide as I can get away with - my question - what is the minimum width of wall I could get away with each side of doors?

Thanks! for any advice!

Doozergirl

Off the top of my head, about 600mm. The side nearest to the kitchen you can take back into the kitchen almost as far as you'd want to as the existing kitchen wall provides much more than that. On the other side, the 600mm would include the width of the wall running at the right angle - so 600mm (or thereabouts, I'm not a million miles off) from the actual outside corner of the building.

You'd probably be better rebuilding the outhouse and going as far as you can than digging up floors etc as it's very probable it's also a single skin wall which wouldn't pass building regs. It means your room will be about a foot narrower as you'll have to build inside the existing wall. The cost difference would be pretty negligable.

moonpenny

Thanks! Doozergirl, but am a bit confused!

Here is a plan of my kitchen and outhouse. Sorry it is so small.

The L shape on the right is the kitchen and the square to the left is the outhouse.
The small walls either side of this is where the adjoining wall is and this is the bit I want to knock through and put double glass doors. (I just put this in the plan to explain better)

It's these walls that would be either side of the double doors that are in question.

What is the least width I could get away with as obviously, I want as much space as possible when the doors are open. In effect, much the same as open plan.

The wall on the far left joins the semi next door and the top and right walls overlook the garden

Owain_Moneysaver

moonpenny wrote: »

Apparently, the same rules don't apply if you have a door instead of it knocked through so, that is what I am thinking of doing.

That exemption is for a conservatory with transparent walls and ceiling.

You're creating new habitable space within a building so current building regulations will have to be complied with.

moonpenny

I seem to be knocking my head against a brick wall here! (no pun intended!):rotfl:

Would the same building regs apply if I used the outhouse as a Porch? This was my other plan.

Put the Back door in there instead of in kitchen and a door leading into kitchen from there. I would then have a few cupboards for storage, coats and shoes etc. Surely that wouldn't be classed as "habitable" space" in that sense would it?

Doozergirl

Totally misunderstood where you wanted doors! Same advice, different place. The maximum span of a concrete lintel is about 1500mm. You will need a structural engineer to decide on the size of the supports because you will need a steel - already one thing subject to building control!
It Is likely to be about 600mm each side, running to the outside edge, so it might be more like 350mm inside, depending on the current wall structure.

If it's a building, clearly attached to the rest of your house with doors opening in, then no building inspector or future buyer's solicitor is ever going to view it as anything but an extension. Building Regs are there to keep you safe and comfortable. A single skin outbuilding converted without the things you've alrwady been told are needed, will, without doubt, be cold and damp. Hang coats, fit storage and there's a pretty high likelihood of condensation and/or black mould in the Reas where air isn't circulating.

You will add value to the house doing it right. The opposite doing it badly.

Leif

Doozergirl wrote: »

You will add value to the house doing it right. The opposite doing it badly.

I can vouch for that having seen a couple of houses with bad conversions. In one case there was a nasty loft conversion, very poor, and in another case there was a poor loft conversion and a bathroom divided into separate shower room and bathroom, both suitable for very thin people due to lack of space. The selling prices reflected the conversion quality.

moonpenny

Thank You! everyone for your replies.

It seems that it's a "no go" for either of my plans.

I knew I would have to have a steel etc, the only difference was not having to take the floor up and deal with the ceiling but I would have wanted the walls insulated and a radiator in there.

I don't think the size of the outhouse justifies the costs involved to convert but, was desparate to make use of "a building already there". Incidently, I have no idea of what it would cost to convert (properly) - could someone give me a rough idea of how much?

The house is just a very small 2 bed semi and in need of extra space but can't really justify the cost of an extension.