Close coupled toilet repair.

Wig

I have to repair a leak on a close coupled toilet - an old one - a very old one...

The leak is in the large doughnut washer/seal between the 2 parts -where the water falls through.

I have a number of concerns, never having done this before

The float mechanism is old design (the mechanism which closes the seal when the water level has dropped). I notice the new designs in the shops are made of 100 different bits of plastic all moulded and intricately designed, designed it would appear to be as complicated as possible. Whereas the old one is a very simple 3 piece design there is
a float bottle clipped onto
a float arm
which is connected to the seal washer
when the water drops the float falls and somehow this drops the seal down to close the gap.

Are these old designs still available for sale complete?

Will I be able to get a new seal/washer or whatever for this old design?

If not, will the new designs definately fit an old cistern?

Finally, the cistern is bolted to the pan by 2 screws. I can see these as weak points for water to leak from when I re-assemble. How are these bolts designed so that they do not leak? I actually am amazed that they do not leak. Can you provide links to a picture of replace ment bolts? And will new replacements definately fit the old toilet?

Thanks

manda1205

We've jsut replaced the whole cistern on our close coupled toilet. the push flush button broke and the fill was taking ages, we looked at getting replacement parts but it worked out cheaper to buy the whole cistern from wickes (where we originally got the toilet anyway). From what my hubby could see they're all pretty similar from different DIY stores anyway, but the whole cistern was only £22 and that included all the inards that we needed, and would include that seal you need too. Also if you're like all the other people in wickes they just go in and pinch the seals/parts they need out of the ones on the shelf anyway, so when we went to get ours we had to sift through to find one that had eveything in it!
Oh forgot to say ours was fitted with the 2 screws you mention and it fitted fine, only difference was we now have a slight gap from wall where it sits, which wasnt there before, so they must be slightly slimmer tanks, but is only slight and hubby has wedged something down there to stop any movement. Hubby says there are rubber cones/washers to stop the leask on these screws too.

keystone

Wig wrote: »

Are these old designs still available for sale complete?

Yes.

Will I be able to get a new seal/washer or whatever for this old design?

Not worth it if you mean the washer in the valve - just replace. If you mean the doughnut yes.

If not, will the new designs definately fit an old cistern?

Yes - buy a Fluidmaster though. Most reliable and quiet.

Finally, the cistern is bolted to the pan by 2 screws. I can see these as weak points for water to leak from when I re-assemble

They aren't at all.

Go and see your local plumbers merchant for all you need. 90% of DIY shed [STRIKE]muppets[/STRIKE] staff won't have a clue nd will fob you off with anything just to get rid of you.

Cheers

Wig

Found this, http://ehowdiy.com/how_to_replace_a_flush_valve_1.htm
which is the wrong flush valve, ours is a pull up knob from the top, (still looking for an internet page showing the flush valve I have) but it was informative for the torque for the
spud nut, half a turn past hand tight
Intermediate nuts 1/4 turn past hand tight.

drakejohnson

You can buy a cc pan connector set with donut, bolts, flange etc.

southcoastrgi

post some pics of the bit you want to change but as above just get a close coupled kit

link

southcoastrgi

Duh, still not awake & only just realised this thread is two yrs old (thanx alot newbi :EasterBun)
but i leave my post here incase someone else is looking for the same

Mr_Ted

southcoastrgi wrote: »

Duh, still not awake & only just realised this thread is two yrs old (thanx alot newbi :EasterBun)
but i leave my post here incase someone else is looking for the same

:rotfl::rotfl::rotfl::rotfl::rotfl::rotfl::rotfl:

Wig

I fixed the toilet...

I took off the cistern in full, this meant I needed a new rectangular seal and new screws. the screws came with rubber cone shaped washers, (this set cost £16) the washer squishes down into the hole in the bottom of the cistern the pressure from the tightened bolt stops the water escaping, like I said earlier I find this amazing that they don't leak, this one didn't leak even though the hole for the bolt was not circular... it was a mishapped hole due to it being a very old cistern...like 50 years old so the manufacturing wasn't all that great back then.

I also needed a big flat rubber washer, thickness 5mm, ouside diameter was about 60mm, inside diamer (hole) was about 5mm.
This washer lifts up to let the water flush out and then drops down to seal again this cost me £2

The water was constantly leaking into the pan due the deterioration of the big flat washer. Only after dismantling the toilet did I realise that I could have left the cistern coupling intact and I would only have needed to buy and replace the £2 washer. That's life.

cyclonebri1

Ok, old post accepted but just a word of warning to anyone with the same issue.
I may actually get more involved.
I did 1 for a friend only a few weeks ago, he almost became an ex friend.

The doughnut was leaking to the extent that water was leaking through the ceiling below, the flush wasn't effective either so complete valve and doughnut kit.

I have never seen 1 in such a state, there was nothing left to speak of of the steel bolt retainer, it was almost rusted away.
This then meant the bolted which were also solid couldn't be easily removed. Without a couple of pairs of mole grips I wouldn't have shifted them.

Then once I'd released the bolts I found the corner of the pan had broken off through the bolt hole :eek::eek:
The only saving grace was that when I inspected it closely, the break was rust stained, at least I hadn't done it.
So it was either down to the expansion of the rusty plate or years of rasting on the flush lever trying to get it to flush.

But it got worse, there were no real fixing into the stud wall behind, just 2 holes about 2" dia each:eek:.

Anyway I did fix it, about 3 hrs after I'd stated the 10 minute job
There is now a strip of ply were the plasterboard was to enable the cistern to be fixed back, this is all that is holding the cistern in close contact down onto the pan.

So, lots to be learnt, jobs for mates and all that, this chappies now saving for a new bathroom suite as a result of not fixing the problem earlier.:A