can someone check my floor calcs?

hotcookie101

Its REALLY stupid, but can someone just make sure I am calculating the total m2 required for our floor correctly:o

We have kitchen-measures 2.62mx 4.11m, then a 1.5m opening to dining room, which is offset from kitchen-measures 3.2mx 3.02m, then doorway to living room which measures 4mx3.54m (this is at widest points-it has chimney breast and enclosed stairway taking space from this, and a bay window) then door to small hall (about 1m x 2m)

I have worked this out to need 10.76+9.664+14.16+2=36.584m2

Where I want to buy if from I would get 38.16m2 of wood in 12 packs. Is this going to be enough to allow for cuts? Is there a set % I should be adding on? (I will be getting a professional to fit the floor, but I would like to get it bought sooner rather than later so it can acclimatise in the house )
Should I be safe and get 13 packs?

Thanks

(oh by the way, that is allowing for it to go wall to wall in kitchen, no spaces under cupboards-we have free standing appliances and it is a NIGHTMARE to try and move them up a lip if there is one)

WLM21

Figures are OK

Usually add about 10% for wastage, but maybe add more if your floor is a very awkward shape.

See here
http://www.thelaminateflooringguide.com/calculator.php

Ask you supplier if you can return unused packs, but buy near the time you are going to fit, ie not many weeks in advance. That way, there is less chance of single pack not being able to be returned because there are no other packs in the shop witht he same batch number.

Ideally, buy today .. fit the following day/s .. return unused packs the following day.

Like wallpaper, all have the same pattern and each batch run is identical, but different batches sometimes have slight differences because of the printing process. No doubt flooring is a wee bit similar, with shades of stain etc

Alan_M_2

Get the extra pack, and for the small cost just keep it.

You then have a perfect match available if in the future and damage occurs and you require replacement.

Canucklehead

OP: Big fan of solid wood flooring...grew up with maple across the pond and later fitted the same in a previous property...it stands the test of time. Btw...have you decided what to do with your boiler.

Canucklehead

hotcookie101

Andrew-b- I have thought long and hard about the type of flooring we are going to have, and was really against wood because of the potential problem with flooding-we had a laking washing machine soon after moving in, which lead to us getting rid of the laminate (destroyed) and replacing with cushioned vinyl-recommended by the insurance guy. We paid over £900 supply and fit, and within 6 weeks the floor was warped. Carpetwrong denied all liability (and their fitter accused us of lying) and has tears in it everywhere from trying to move appliances (gently) I wouldn't touch it with a bargepole. I was considering karnead/amtico but tbh-its at least £30 m2 plus fitting, and we cant afford it. Tiles we would need underfloor heating, and because there is an open space between kitchen and dining room they would have to be there too-which I think would look a bit odd.

Wood will tie in the whole of the downstairs floor, and because its going to the walls, we would (hopefully) see a leak on the surface BEFORE the floor became squidgy which is what happened with the laminate.

Thanks everyone for confirming the calcs, I will get the extra pack to be on the safe side.

Canucklehead-sorry I missed your post, I have just replied. I am planning on getting the company who fitted it to come out for a service and to see what we have to do. If it did come to shifting boiler up 12inches-any idea of costs?

hotcookie101

andrew-b wrote: »

Tiles plus slippers. Tiles and grout will come to similar sort of thickness to wood...a matching wooden threshold from kitchen to dining room can be used to cover any gap.

If you do put wood down in the kitchen i'd be gluing every join to seal it as well as you can.

Make sure if your laying the wood floor on concrete that you put a damp proof membrane down so moisture doesn't come up through the floor and wreck it that way - also needs to be nice and flat so you might need self-levelling compound down. Whatever is beneath, I'd also remove all the skirtings and replace after the wood is down so it covers the gap left for expansion around the perimeter.

I wear slippers The kitchen is always pretty cold as there is no radiator in there-so with tiled floor would be REALLY cold.
The kitchen and dining room are basically open plan, the wall has been knocked out and there is a 1.5 opening, having 2 different floors would look really pants!

Yeah, damp proof membrane def being used-thinking of getting the poshed underlay which also has acoustic reduction (or some such thing) Dining room needs new skirting, so will have that fitted after the floor.

In an ideal world we'd get underfloor heating & large limestone or slate type tiles, or wood effect karndean or amtico, but its TOO expensive. And real wood is much nicer