Fixing an electrical socket

Leif

I have a double socket in one room which protrudes out too far, and there was a plaster bodge around it. I have removed the plaster bodge. I would like to set the socket more deeply into the wall. A quick check shows no obvious means for retaining the metal socket box, no nails or screws. How would I remove the socket box? Please note that I turn off the socket at the fuse box by turning off the riing in question, and test with a plugged in radio that the socket is dead. Let me know if this is unsafe practice. Thanks.

googler

You remove the socket box (the metal rear box) by unscrewing, and disconnecting from the cabling, the top plate (the white plastic section), then removing any screws that secure the metal box and pulling it forward. The cable should run through a hole in the box, with a rubber grommet in the hole to prevent chafing. Pull the box forward off the cables.

Typically the metal box is secured to wood strutwork in the wall space, or masonry fittings if it's that type of wall. You'll need to determine what you use by what kind of wall you have. There's always the possibility it's been cemented or glued in place, in which case you need to break the adhesive bond holding it in place to remove.

When refitting, feed the box over the cables and secure it once you've decided what and where to secure it to.

Plugging appliances into the socket you're working on, or others in the same ring is good enough to test that you've switched it off.

Leif

Thank you very much. It looks as if the box is glued or cemented in place as I saw no screws, which is why I asked here. The room wall is breezeblock, being the inner part of a cavity wall. Any suggestions as to how I break the bond other than a lever of some sort? I can repair damage to plaster (Easi-fill) but I'd like to minimize damage.

paulpud

googler wrote: »

Plugging appliances into the socket you're working on, or others in the same ring is good enough to test that you've switched it off.

Proceed with a little caution.

In 99.9% of cases this will be a good indication that the circuit is dead, and is the method I myself would use, but there can be situations (due to incorrect wiring) where live cables could still be present.

Leif

paulpud wrote: »

Proceed with a little caution.

In 99.9% of cases this will be a good indication that the circuit is dead, and is the method I myself would use, but there can be situations (due to incorrect wiring) where live cables could still be present.

Thank you. And what is the best way to detect a live wire apart from the obvious painful method? Incidentally I am having a new fusebox installed with a RCD which I believe is safer. I will certainly wait until that is in place.

paulpud

Yes, an installation with an RCD is much safer and will stop you receiving a fatal electric shock, but it won't stop you receiving a shock nor the unpleasant sensation of cutting through a live cable!

I would always recommend using a simple mains voltage tester like this

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand+Tools/Electricians+Tools/ACDC+Voltage+Tester+400v/d10/sd170/p83734

You test it on a mains voltage you know is live first to make sure it lights up ok, and then on the circuit that you want to work on. When removing sockets and switches it's always a good idea to test the bare ends of the cables once they are disconnected too.

muckybutt

Being a sparky I would never recommend anyone to test for dead with a radio or other portable appliance.

If you are competant enough to do so then always use a mains tester. Always check the testers before use on a know live source, then check Live - Neutral, Live - Earth, and then Neutral - Earth. Depending on the wiring even though you have isolated the correct circuit there could still be the possibility of mains voltage on the Neutral conductor so always use extreme caution, and if in any doubt at all then get a pro in.

Leif

I will add something I learnt from a colleague. Apparently removing the fuse from the appropriate circuit is not enough, as that does not guarantee no power. The safe approach is turn off the main power switch which cuts power to the entire house.

moonrakerz

Leif wrote: »

I will add something I learnt from a colleague. Apparently removing the fuse from the appropriate circuit is not enough, as that does not guarantee no power.

.............because (as Muckybutt says) this will only open one side of the circuit - if it is wired incorrectly you will remove the fuse from the "dead" side of the circuit - not a good idea !

Leif

Sorted! The original box would only sit ON the mounting box. I bought a new socket front panel, but this one allows the mounting box to sit slightly inside, a few mm inside, and it is just enough to allow the front panel to sit flat on the surrounding plaster. So, I removed the nasty bodged plaster patch round the socket, sanded, a bit of Easifill and all done. If the bodger who did the original job had thought a bit, and examined the box, they could have done a good job with less effort. Sigh!

Thanks again to all.