Joinery Question. How do I take up chipboard floor in a straight line against Joist?

Frank_Sebem

Hi Joinery experts

I am building a wetroom in my Bathroom. To do this properly it is required that the Walls are stripped of Plasterboard and replaced with Aquapanel. I must also rip up the 19" Chipboard floor and replace with a suitable wetroom floor (Wediboard).!

So, I have stripped the Walls of plasterboard so I am back to the studding. Everything is fine. My problem is getting the floor up in the Bathroom! !Here's the problem I have:

The Chipboard floor was obviously laid BEFORE the stud Walls in the Bathroom because the Board goes under the Studding. I have never seen this setup before and simply expected to come across floorboards that I could rip up. Anyway, I have started on the floor by running a handheld Circular saw all around the perimeter of the Walls. I then ripped up the floor to expose the Joists. All is fine up to now. But...my problem is that I now have a 3" piece of flooring left all around the room because the circular Saw cannot get right up to the joint where the studding meets the floor. To simplify what I mean imagine drawing a square 10cm square. Then inside that square draw another square that is 8cm square. If I now cut out that 8cm square I still have 2cm left all around. Because the circular saw has a guard on 1 side of the blade and the motor & handle sticking out of the other side I have no way of getting in to cut the chipboard right at the joint where the wall meets the floor. Now in a kids world if that piece left around the perimeter was plastic or card I would simply use a Stanley Knife to score and cut it. But it's not. It's 19mm Chipboard!!

Anybody got any ideas of how I can get in close to the Joint of the floor and wall to remove this remaining 3" piece that I have left all around the room? Is there a tool that I could use?

Thanks all.!

anotherbaldrick

Yes , THIS:- http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bosch-PMF-180-Multifunctional-Allrounder/dp/B000WQOXV4

you can get a battery or mains version, has multitude of other uses.

phill99

anotherbaldricks suggestion is good, although if you are doing a lot, the corded versions are better.

Alternatively, use a reciprocating saw

http://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-erb800rl-800w-reciprocating-saw-230v/40058

27col

You could just buy a new hard-point saw and do it by hand at a slight angle to the wall. It's not difficult with a sharp new saw. By the way, it is quite normal to put up stud walls on top of an existing floor.

ormus

http://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-tct-circular-saw-blades-16t-180x16mm/92404

use a cheap saw blade in your battery drill. you will have to make an arbor to fit it.
simple enough. with nuts and a bolt.
ps,
use with care.
it could be a tad dangerous!

anotherbaldrick

ormus wrote: »

http://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-tct-circular-saw-blades-16t-180x16mm/92404

use a cheap saw blade in your battery drill. you will have to make an arbor to fit it.
simple enough. with nuts and a bolt.
ps,
use with care.
it could be a tad dangerous!

Tad as in WHOOPS THERE GO MY FINGERS ?

vax2002

how will you secure the boards at the other side of the wall ? are they screwed or floating

keystone

vax2002 wrote: »

how will you secure the boards at the other side of the wall ? are they screwed or floating

Unless there is a joist right under the stud then you already know the answer to that question.

Cheers

tony6403

Perhaps a "drill saw" as above might do it run against a batten ?
Supplied by Screwfix.
I have never used these bits but they are advertised as "used as a drill, saw, rotary file, reamer and router".