Wooden sash windows single/double glaze

donut_breasts

Hi, My partner and I are buying a 1900s Victorian house and the survey has pulled up some issues with the wooden single pane sash windows.

I need help with a guide price for replacing (worst scenario) the following wooden sash windows:
1 x (1.25m x 0.75m)
3 x (1.25m x 1m)
2 x (1.25m x 0.3m)
2 x (1.25m x 0.5m)

Can anyone tell me how the price will vary for single and double glazed?
I don't really want to go UPVC as the windows will lose their character.

Also if anyone can recommend someone in the Lewisham (south east london) area that would be a great help.

Thanks everyone!

System

can you even buy single glazed windows anymore?

Idonex

Our new double glazed wooden opening sashes; 2 over 2 around 0.95 x 1.65 cost us roughly £900 each (per window not per sliding sash). That was primed hardwood with new beads, ropes, weights, locks, horns to match existing windows etc and draft proofed. I reckon you're looking at 6-8k for all yours, although there are experts here who could probably offer a more accurate estimate.

The cost of having double glazing over 4mm safety glass was negligble. The cost is in making the windows. A word about double glazing sash windows - it doesn't work anywhere near as well as double glazing in uPVC windows, either for warmth or noise reduction. The only reason we went with double glazing was because it added so little to the actual overall cost. We were told on the opening windows we would only save around £100 a window in glass going for single glazing, and it was a few companies who said pretty much the same thing.

leveller2911

Idonex wrote: »

Our new double glazed wooden opening sashes; 2 over 2 around 0.95 x 1.65 cost us roughly £900 each (per window not per sliding sash). That was primed hardwood with new beads, ropes, weights, locks, horns to match existing windows etc and draft proofed. I reckon you're looking at 6-8k for all yours, although there are experts here who could probably offer a more accurate estimate.

The cost of having double glazing over 4mm safety glass was negligble. The cost is in making the windows. A word about double glazing sash windows - it doesn't work anywhere near as well as double glazing in uPVC windows, either for warmth or noise reduction". The only reason we went with double glazing was because it added so little to the actual overall cost. We were told on the opening windows we would only save around £100 a window in glass going for single glazing, and it was a few companies who said pretty much the same thing.

I would say that if your windows came in at £900-00 each you had a good deal.Could you post some pix ?as I'm always interested to see other peoples work.I have seen some lovelly work in my time but also so real Mickey Mouse Joinery.

Why do you say "A word about double glazing sash windows - it doesn't work anywhere near as well as double glazing in uPVC windows, either for warmth or noise reduction" sorry but thats wrong as all windows have to comply to regulations with a U value of 1.5 or below.It all depends on the spec of the windows.You are right in saying double glazing doesn't cost much more than single however unless you live in a Listed Building you don't have any choice as you need to comply with Building regulations.

If I were to make one Boxframe say 1.65 high x 1.0 wide double glazed, etc etc etc I would charge about £1700, but the more you can make at the same time brings the cost of each window down rapidly.For instance Ive just made 2 bay windows(6 boxframes),1 double boxframe,1 curved top boxframe and 3 single boxframes including all new architraves(bespoke victorian profile) and window boards for £14k......So making volume saves money...

Idonex

leveller2911 wrote: »

I would say that if your windows came in at £900-00 each you had a good deal.Could you post some pix ?as I'm always interested to see other peoples work.I have seen some lovelly work in my time but also so real Mickey Mouse Joinery.

Why do you say "A word about double glazing sash windows - it doesn't work anywhere near as well as double glazing in uPVC windows, either for warmth or noise reduction" sorry but thats wrong as all windows have to comply to regulations with a U value of 1.5 or below.It all depends on the spec of the windows.You are right in saying double glazing doesn't cost much more than single however unless you live in a Listed Building you don't have any choice as you need to comply with Building regulations.

If I were to make one Boxframe say 1.65 high x 1.0 wide double glazed, etc etc etc I would charge about £1700, but the more you can make at the same time brings the cost of each window down rapidly.For instance Ive just made 2 bay windows(6 boxframes),1 double boxframe,1 curved top boxframe and 3 single boxframes including all new architraves(bespoke victorian profile) and window boards for £14k......So making volume saves money...

Hi,

I'll try and post some pics in a bit. We didn't have the actual frames changed though. Only the sliding bits with the glass in, all beading and the inside linings the ropes behind. I have no idea the quality to another professional but they look good to me!

I guess what i mean is not to say that the physical glass in wooden sash windows is inferior to uPVC, but that with a uPVC window when you close the window it's totally sealed. With a wooden sash no matter how well made, the seal is not as good, hence air and noise gets in. I had sliding uPVC sash windows in an old place i rented ages ago and open you heard loads of noise, closed it dissapeared. With our wooden ones it doesn't make anywhere near as much difference. It's better than the pre-war plate glass in the old windows but nowhere near the difference i noticed with uPVC sashs.

Saying that i love the new wooden ones and if i had the choice again i'd choose wooden again.

System

Idonex wrote: »

Hi,

I guess what i mean is not to say that the physical glass in wooden sash windows is inferior to uPVC, but that with a uPVC window when you close the window it's totally sealed. With a wooden sash no matter how well made, the seal is not as good, hence air and noise gets in.

only if you are buying badly made timber windows!

leveller2911

Idonex wrote: »

Hi,

I'll try and post some pics in a bit. We didn't have the actual frames changed though. Only the sliding bits with the glass in, all beading and the inside linings the ropes behind. I have no idea the quality to another professional but they look good to me!

I guess what i mean is not to say that the physical glass in wooden sash windows is inferior to uPVC, but that with a uPVC window when you close the window it's totally sealed. With a wooden sash no matter how well made, the seal is not as good, hence air and noise gets in. I had sliding uPVC sash windows in an old place i rented ages ago and open you heard loads of noise, closed it dissapeared. With our wooden ones it doesn't make anywhere near as much difference. It's better than the pre-war plate glass in the old windows but nowhere near the difference i noticed with uPVC sashs.

Saying that i love the new wooden ones and if i had the choice again i'd choose wooden again.

Oh I thought you had complete replacements including Boxes ,if it had included the boxes to be honest although it would have cost a fair bit more you would have got a much better job.For instance we fit draught excluders on the pulley wheels too so no draughts at all.
When you renovate existing boxframes it is difficult to get a real draught proof. Glass wise timber window manufacturers will use the same spec as Upvc and filling the units with Xenon or Krypton gas will make a difference over Argon gas filled units.

I think you would probably have a diffent opinion if you had replaced the complete windows......Would like to see them if you can post pix......:D


I know very little about Upvc windows but sound reduction wise I would have thought that sound would travel through a hollow Upvc moulding more than solid Hardwood timber framing.I'm interested to know which is better or if they are similar.

Idonex

leveller2911 wrote: »

I think you would probably have a diffent opinion if you had replaced the complete windows......Would like to see them if you can post pix......:D

Here's a few pics, i think they should work. Can't get any better ones at the mo.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/600/bottomsash.jpg/


http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/7/topsash.jpg/

leveller2911

Idonex wrote: »

Here's a few pics, i think they should work. Can't get any better ones at the mo.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/600/bottomsash.jpg/


http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/7/topsash.jpg/

They look fine, I don't think the Ovolo moulding on the sashes looks very traditional theyve used a modern moulding but apart from that they look ok.Good to see theyve kept the narrow glazing bars , the sash has one single double glazed unit rather than two.If they had used 2 then the glazing bar would be about 36mm wide rather than about 20mm ......Bit techy I know but it makes all the difference.

pleasedelete

I am having 8 new wooden made and fitted for 15k. This is 3rd house in a row! I curse the idiots who removed the originals.

3 are big (1.8 high), 1 wide and about 1.2 high and 4 are smallish.

The upvc in this house is only 10 years old. 5 windows leak really badly- 1 causing damp (3 different companies fitted )

It will be over 75k to do the whole house- eeek.

DadDee

Hi

I have a similar query. We have a 1900s Victorian house with an assortment of wooden sash and casement windows.

a) a couple of sashes are rotten - we have been quoted £1200 to replace these with similar wooden double glazed units. This is a no brainer decision, though one of the companies prefers fixing the existing frame rather than replacing the original frames.
b) The rest of the sashes and the casement windows just need an overhaul and have been quoted the following

-> £250 to draught proof and full service (rebalancing, etc.) each sash
-> £250 + £450 to draught proof, full service and double glaze each sash

The prices for casement windows is slightly lower than the slashes.


Just wanted people's opinions about the merits of draught proofing only vs draught proofing + double glazing. Also is it straight forward to fit double glazing to existing wooden sashes? What questions should I be asking the suppliers?

DD