best kitchen carcasses - pine, mdf or mfc?

f11

Does anyone know much about kitchen carcasses? What is the best material - we are choosing between suppliers who offer carcasses in: pine or mdf with veneer on top, or regular rigid mfc?
Worried that pine might warp, bleed resin, knots and don't know much about veneered mdf?
Any knowledge or experience of this?
Also, doors for painting - pine or tulipwood?

So hard to know what's best as for some strange reason people always say what they use is best!!
thanks for reading.

phill99

The term 'best' needs defining. Do you mean best in terms of value for money, cost effectiveness, minimal maintenance, durability etc etc.

The vast majority of carcasses are mfc. However, if you are looking for something you can paint or stain etc, then you need wood.

You need to define what your priorities are for a carcass and take it from there.

Hintza

Pre-made ones i.e Magnet or Howdens?

leveller2911

If the carcases are going to have a solid timber face frame and a paint finish then go for "Tulipwood" (Poplar) face frames as its a very stable timber near heat sources and takes a paint finish well..

Carcase wise I would tend to go for 19mm MFMDF (Melamine faced MDF) as its easy to keep clean.If your looking to have the carcase paint finished the same as the doors etc then 18mm Birch faced Ply as this too takes paint finish well .I would suggest a spray finish as opposed to brush finish to the carcases because you will get a better finish...

Badger74

leveller2911 wrote: »

If the carcases are going to have a solid timber face frame and a paint finish then go for "Tulipwood" (Poplar) face frames as its a very stable timber near heat sources and takes a paint finish well..

Carcase wise I would tend to go for 19mm MFMDF (Melamine faced MDF) as its easy to keep clean.If your looking to have the carcase paint finished the same as the doors etc then 18mm Birch faced Ply as this too takes paint finish well .I would suggest a spray finish as opposed to brush finish to the carcases because you will get a better finish...

I don't suppose you fancy doing our new kitchen for us do you? Sounds like you would be able to do exactly what we're after! We're in West Sussex...........

leveller2911

Badger74 wrote: »

I don't suppose you fancy doing our new kitchen for us do you? Sounds like you would be able to do exactly what we're after! We're in West Sussex...........

Hi Badger, I live as far East in East Sussex as you can get, almost on the Border with Kent and I don't tend to travel far for work.......

Badger74

leveller2911 wrote: »

Hi Badger, I live as far East in East Sussex as you can get, almost on the Border with Kent and I don't tend to travel far for work.......

Oh, no problem Leveller - thanks for replying; i knew it was a long shot!

Can i just ask your opinion though? if we wanted something like you're suggesting for our kitchen (mdf/tulipwood combo) are we better off trying to find a carpenter, rather than a traditional kitchen fitter do you think?

leveller2911

Badger74 wrote: »

Oh, no problem Leveller - thanks for replying; i knew it was a long shot!

Can i just ask your opinion though? if we wanted something like you're suggesting for our kitchen (mdf/tulipwood combo) are we better off trying to find a carpenter, rather than a traditional kitchen fitter do you think?

You really need to find 2-3 small local Joinery workshops.A small Joinery workshop will be able to help you with design and make a bespoke kitchen but it will be at a cost.Bespoke is a fair bit more expensive than using standard units.

Generally speaking a traditional kitchen fitter will fit standard kitchens but should be able to fit a bespoke kitchen.Most Joinery workshops will supply and fit or at least be able to recommend a fitter..I've seen many a customer conned this way.They pay a premium for supposed Hand made bespoke kitchen and end up with an expensive bog standard kitchen.....

A carpenters job can vary so much, many will pitch roofs stud walls etc (1st fix) ,others will hang doors,skirtingboards,architraves etc and others will fit kitchens. Some will be able to do all the above.If you go for a carpenter try and find one with a joinery back ground as they tend to have a bit more finesse......



Be wary of some Kitchen companies who say they are bespoke but in fact use standard sized units and plenty of in-fill fillets.....You can generally tell standard units as they start at 300mm wide and go up in 100mm increments........and they will usually use blum type hinges even on a framed kitchen rather than a traditional butt hinge..

Badger74

Thanks so much Leveller; excellent advice & much appreciated. Have a great weekend

asbokid

We've got solid pine carcasses. I would think they are better in an older house without proper damp proofing since pine boards don't suffer the same swelling problems as chipboard, and don't blot up moisture and become soggy like MDF.

leveller2911

asbokid wrote: »

We've got solid pine carcasses. I would think they are better in an older house without proper damp proofing since pine boards don't suffer the same swelling problems as chipboard, and don't blot up moisture and become soggy like MDF.

Pine is not a stable timber ,it can shrink in the Summer and expand in the Winter, humidity has far more effect on Pine than moisture resistant MDF,MFMDF, Birch faced ply and even MFC (Melamine faced chipboard) when edgebanded and sealed..

You may be confusing MFMDF (MELAMINE faced mdf) and moisture resistant MDF with bog standard MDF they are different products.

If the house has a damp issue then its bad practice to fit any kitchen over damp areas, they should be rectified first..