Hot water cylinder clicking -? Dangerous?

checkincherry

Thanks cajef, will definitely have a go at some diagnosing first. Will try and get DD out of the house on the weekend and have a go then without a little person underfoot.

Really appreciate you taking the time to extend a hand to help (and put up with my ignorance! OK , so now I know a bit more about heating system bits -not only do I know the silver box is the valve/motor, also worked out that the "burgundy" bit is a "pump" not a "motor" - so it's been a top morning )

Thank you cajef :T:T:T

Cherry

cajef

checkincherry wrote: »

Really appreciate you taking the time to extend a hand to help (and put up with my ignorance!

No problem we have all got to learn sometime.

If it turns out to be the motor sticking it is easy to replace, it will come with a new cable attached and just change the wire in the junction box where it is connected colour for colour.

BaldPlumber

cajef wrote: »

No problem we have all got to learn sometime.

If it turns out to be the motor sticking it is easy to replace, it will come with a new cable attached and just change the wire in the junction box where it is connected colour for colour.

The synchron motor is wired internally - 2 wires & does not connect to wiring centre.

If you need a powerhead for the valve then it is best to buy a 'chocolate box' and 3/5 amp wiring connector to avoid disturbing the wiring centre - wires can become dislodged and these things are sometimes tricky to trace back without a multimeter.

I would not advise DIY on this unless you are fully competent, no offence to OP if they are a DIY whizz.

grizzly1911

BaldPlumber wrote: »

The synchron motor is wired internally - 2 wires & does not connect to wiring centre.

If you need a powerhead for the valve then it is best to buy a 'chocolate box' and 3/5 amp wiring connector to avoid disturbing the wiring centre - wires can become dislodged and these things are sometimes tricky to trace back without a multimeter.

I would not advise DIY on this unless you are fully competent, no offence to OP if they are a DIY whizz.

I have done this myself it is not that bad and watched a "professional" change the valve as well (without draining down:eek:).

Usually the silver box will be retained by a screw. Lift it off. As the PP says there will be two wires, mine already went to a connector so could just switch them over.

But from watching the professional - as the PP said definitely do not touch the main wiring circuit box.

Get said "choclatebox", basically a plastic box, with lid with screw and cable grips, like a 3 pin plug to keep the wires in place. Stops fingers getting at the connector block. Available form DIY stores and a connector block, those plastic strips that you can cut, into small blocks to join wire up.

Turn off the electricity or at least turn off the central heating at the isolation switch, usually, next to the programmer.

Cut the two wires remove old motor as a PP said, making sure you locate the new one back in place properly, connect the new wires back to their respective colour mates using the connector block. Put the block in the box.

Put power back on.

Check it works, replace the silver lid.

I saw Drayton ones in B&Q for £20 today but mine was a honeywell and a lot less off web.

By the way when he replaced the whole valve "just" put a bung in the header tank and prayed. It worked £200 quid for the privilege.

checkincherry

Thanks to all for your help. I'm going to take a deep breath over the weekend and see if I can do some diagnosis around the valve. The noise isn't so bad now, and I made it stop by a sharp tap on the "silver box" earlier. Sounds like something sticking either valve or motor.

And baldplumber - no offence taken. I'm not a DIY whizz just a gal who's prepared to have a go ( in a thoughtful sensible way). I know my limitations, but also like to try and do stuff that doesn't need a professional. It's just been a lot of stuff all happening at once lately. I managed replacing a sheered off tubular latch in an internal door; managed changing the uPvC window handles and replaced the flush button (identifying the right one was the hardest thing in pretty much all cases).

I do know this is a lot more complicated than that. Things to do with electricity; gas and hot water have lots more scope to go badly wrong.

I've said it before, but I really do appreciate you more-capable folk being so helpful. I used to subscribe to a car forum, but the rude aggressive, patronising bullying from some when all I needed was some help was too much and drove me away. You folks really set the gold standard.:A

1984ReturnsForReal_2

Sometimes on port valves the "powerhead" is a fixed part of the valve. IE you take it off & your house floods.

Google the part number of the valve just in case.