Refinishing an oak table

Doubtful_Guest

We have a solid oak dining table that we bought from Habitat in 2003. It's really lovely but it seems to be sort of unsealed wood. I think it's a very lightly waxed finish on it.
The problem is that it gets marked very easily - any overlooked drop of water leaves a black mark, greasy fingermarks can't be wiped off. It's in pretty good condition with only a few marks but the only way we can use it is to keep it permanently covered with a plastic tablecloth.

It seems such a shame that we never get to see the table itself. I was thinking that maybe I could put a finish on it that would be more robust. But I've never done anything like that before and I'm not sure where to start. I would prefer a matt, colourless finish.

Tung oil ? Danish oil ? Something else entirely ?

Would I have to just put it straight on or give it a light sand or sand right back to remove any trace of the original waxed finish ?

Should I leave it alone and wait until I can afford a professional ?

Any help or advice appreciated as I really don't want to ruin this table.

moonrakerz

I have just done an oak table.

Used a Bosch orbital sander with reducing grades of paper. If it is solid wood you can take off almost as much as you want.
DO NOT use steel wool on oak - it goes black !
Wipe clean with a good tack cloth.
Then 4 coats of Liberon Finishing Oil.

The table looks like new. Nice Matt finish. The more layers of oil, the darker and glossier it gets.

DirectDebacle

Wax is not a very resilient finish, particularly for a dining table. The ultimate finish is french polish which is easily marked. Modern finishes can look as good and are much more robust.

To refinish your table with a high gloss durable finish requires some expertise. The wax needs to be stripped off (meths is usually best) and several clear coats of cellulose/melamine applied by spray. This is best left to a professional.

You can successfully apply a polyurethane finish e.g. Ronseal or similar, by brush. Care needs to be taken in both preparation and application as follows.

1. Remove all traces of wax with meths. Use a green 'scotch' scourer initially and use liberal amounts of meths finally wiping dry with a clean cloth.

2. Wipe with a clean cloth and white spirit.

3. Apply 3 coats of varnish. (Clear gloss)

1st coat 60% white spirit/40% varnish. This will penetrate into the wood and dry quickly. Use a good quality brush and work with and across the grain, finishing with brushing with the grain. Light strokes will help in avoiding brush marks.

Lightly de-nib (rub down) with 300grit wet and dry paper used dry. Remove dust specks with a tack cloth or cloth dampened with white spirit.

2nd coat as above but use 60% varnish/40% white spirit. De-nib.

3rd coat straight from the tin. Apply thinly.

Done correctly this will give you a good durable finish. If it is a disaster it can be removed with Nitromors or similar and start again.

Alternatively leave to a professional.

aboard_epsilon

Highly recomended is DVD called
Jeff Jewitt ...Hand Applied Finishes

what you cant learn from that isnt written down

http://www.bookdepository.co.uk/book/9781561589005/Hand-Applied-Finishes

all the best.markj

moonrakerz

Doubtful_Guest wrote: »

I would prefer a matt, colourless finish.

DirectDebacle wrote: »

To refinish your table with a high gloss durable finish requires some expertise.

...................................?

Jonesya

If you can get back to bare wood, you could use something hard wearing like a polyurethane varnish and then for a completely matt finish, rub the surface with some very fine wire wool.

moonrakerz

Jonesya wrote: »

rub the surface with some very fine wire wool.

DO NOT use wire wool on oak !!!!!!

Jonesya

moonrakerz wrote: »

DO NOT use wire wool on oak !!!!!!

No - I meant, for a completely matt finish, rub the VARNISHED surface with some fine wire wool.

The wire wool isn't going to affect the oak when there's a couple of coats of polyurethane between it.

DirectDebacle

Jonesya wrote: »

No - I meant, for a completely matt finish, rub the VARNISHED surface with some fine wire wool.

The wire wool isn't going to affect the oak when there's a couple of coats of polyurethane between it.

I know what you said and that it was correct.

moonrakerz has comprehension problems.

Used a Bosch orbital sander with reducing grades of paper

You don't sand a waxed surface. You remove the wax first.

You don't reduce the grades of sandpaper, you incresae the grades.
I expect his table looks lovely after he started sanding with 220 grit and reduced it to 80 grit for the final finish.:rotfl:

moonrakerz

DirectDebacle wrote: »

moonrakerz has comprehension problems.

You don't sand a waxed surface. You remove the wax first.

You don't reduce the grades of sandpaper, you incresae the grades.
I expect his table looks lovely after he started sanding with 220 grit and reduced it to 80 grit for the final finish.:rotfl:

No he doesn't (apart from reading people's misspellings!) - but you obviously do............

If you are dealing with solid oak (as I said) it is quite acceptable to remove any wax, varnish or whatever by sanding - especially if there are damage marks in the timber.