Blank DVD's (8X v's 16X)

Mr_Frugal

Dumb question.....but I'm gonna ask it anyway !

I can buy 100 Datawrite Titanium R+ 16X cheaper than I can buy 100 Datawrite Titanium R+ 8X.
My DVD burner is 8X (to the best of my knowledge) but whenever I burn to DVD I usually burn at 2.4X anyway. Can I use 16X in my burner (obviously wont get 16X but just want to know if they are OK to use at a slower speed than they were designed for) ????

Said it was a dumb question......but just want to check (don't want to fork out the cash for unusable DVD's)...!!!

TIA,

Mr_F.

Donnie

Had a LOT of problems with Datawrite Titanium 8X DVD-R. Their Datawrite Blue are good. Their Silver Premiums CDs are good.

woo

I haven't had any issues with my lot of titanium dvd or cd.
Burn all my dvds at 6x for consistant results

Mr_Frugal

Cheers for responses.

However my concern isn't over the make of disc (I have used the Datawrite titanium's before) but is over whether I can burn on to a 16X disc with my 8X burner.
(I would imagine it will be fine just not use the capacity of the 16X that is available and burn at a slower speed but would like confirmation as I dont want to buy 16X discs to find that they are incompatable due to me having a 8X burner).

Any confirmation gratefully received.

movieman

Disk speed is generally irrelevant so long as you don't try to record faster than the disk can handle. Usually the disks will list a range of valid recording rates, which is normally 1-8x or 1-16x, I don't think I've seen any which won't run as low as 1x and I'd be amazed if any didn't work at 8x.

However, the recorder BIOS does often try to detect the type of disk and optimise the laser settings, so it's possible it might not be as reliable with disks released after the BIOS was burnt into the recorder.

Either way, I use 16x disks in my 8x burner because 8x are becoming hard to find, and I keep forgetting to reset the speed to 8x after burning a DVD-RW, so I usually end up burning them at 4x!

browolf

it usually depends on the disk manufacturer rather than the speed of the disk. most disks are outsourced

Dye imperfections. Bad foils and dyes, as well as bad dye spread are the most common issue that causes bad media. If the dye is uneven or does not reach to the edge of the disc, it is often bad. CMC is known for bad inner-disc spread (dye thinning) and Princo is known for not reaching the edge (short spread).

the follow brands are known to use the following manufacturer's discs
Accu = LEADDATA
Americal = RITEKG01, PRINCO, LEADDATA
Apple = MXL, MCC
Arita = RITEKG03, RICOHJPN
Bulkpaq = PRINCO, PRODISC
CompUSA = PRINCO, OPTODISC, LD
Datawrite = PRINCO, PRODISC, AN31, RITEKG03
DupEZ = PIODATA, LEADDATA
Esbuy = RITEK, LEADDATA, other budget IDs
Fuji = TAIYOYUDEN, MCC, RICOHJPN, PRODISC, FUJIFILM
GQ = PIODATA, PRINCO, RITEKG03, RITEKG02, LEADDATA, LD
HP = CMC, RICOHJPN, MCC
Imation = RITEKG03, CMC
KHypermedia = CMC, TTG01
LiquidVideo = OPTODISC
Matrix = MATRIX, LONGTEN, YIJHAN, MUST
Maxell = MXL, RITEK, RICOHJPN, TYG01
Memorex = CMC, RICOHJPN, PRODISC, INFODISC
Meritline = Various budget IDs
Mirror = AN31, ONIDTECH, PRINCO
Optodisc = OPTODISC
Philips = CMC
Pioneer = PVC
Princo = PRINCO, Fake TDK
Prodisc = PRODISCS03, MCC
Ritek = RITEKG01-04, RICOHJPN
Samsung = TYG01, BEALL, RITEK
Sonic, Shop4tech = LONGTEN, MATRIX, MUST, YIJHAN, various budget IDs
Sony = SONYD04, RICOHJPN, MCC
Supermedia, Linkyo = Various budget IDs
TDK = TDK, RITEKG04, RICOHJPN, MXL, CMC, MCC
Verbatim = MCC, CMC, YUDEN, RICOHJPN, RITEKG03

i use verbatim which use MCC, although for a period they used CMC

1ST CLASS MEDIA
Almost flawless burns with 95-100% reliable results:
TAIYOYUDEN, YUDEN, TYG01, TYG02 = Taiyo Yuden = (-R)(+R) ... be aware of fakes
MXLRG01, MXLRG02 = Maxell = (-R)(-RW) ... be aware of fakes
MCC = Mitsubishi Chemicals = (-R)(-RW)(+R)(+RW)
TDKG02, TTG01 = TDK Corp = (-R)(-RW) ... be aware of fakes

2ND CLASS MEDIA
Decent discs, though not perfect, about 80-95% success rate:
PRODISC = Prodisc Media = (-R)(+R)
INFODISC = Infodisc Media = (+RW)
SONYD04 = Sony = (-R) ... be aware of fakes
RICOHJPN = Ritek or Ricoh = (+R)(+RW)
RITEK = Ritek = (+R)(-R)(-RW)(+RW)
OPTODISC = Optodisc = (-R)
FUJIFILM = Fuji = (-R)(+R)

3RD CLASS MEDIA
Quality can be very questionable, about 50-80% success rate:
LEADDATA, LD01, LD, LEDA = Lead Data = (-R)(-RW)
BEALL = Samsung BeAll = (-R)(+R)
MBI = Moser Beaur (India) = (-R)(+R)(+RW)
PRINCO, fake TDK = Princo = (-R)(-RW)
ONIDTECH = Unknown OEM = (-R)
MUST = Unknown OEM = (-R)
GSC001, GSC002 = Unknown OEM = (-R)(+R)

4TH CLASS MEDIA
Pathetic garbage media, landfill material, about 0-50% success rate:
RITEKG01, RITEKG02 = Ritek = (-R)
CMC, CMCMAG = CMC Magnetics = (+R)(-R)
PIODATA, PIO = LeadData, Ritek = (-R) ... once sold as "Pioneer" but that's false
Fake SONY, MXL = Fake Sony/Maxell from Hong Kong OEM (Infosmart?) = (-R)
OPTODISC = Optodisc = (+R)(+RW)
AN31, AN32, ANWELL, AN30 = Hong Kong OEM (Infosmart?) = (-R)
INFOSMART = Hong Kong OEM = (-R)(+R)
VANGUARD = Unknown OEM = (-R)
YIJHAN = Hong Kong OEM = (-R)
MATRIX = Hong Kong OEM = (-R)
VDSPMS = Unknown OEM = (-R)(+R)
LONGTEN = Hong Kong OEM = (-R)

theres a program you can get to see who manufacturered the media
http://www.dvdinfopro.com/

referenced from:
http://www.best-dvd-burning-software-reviews.com/best-blank-dvd-media.asp