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Has anyone used Bal Rapidbase self levelling compound?
TomsMom
Posts: 4,251 Forumite
We need the sun room floor levelling ready for carpet tiles. At present it has ceramic tiles, a couple have chips or cracks in them and one or two have blown.
We had a builder round who said we could carpet tile directly over these ceramic tiles but we're not too keen on that. He's busy and couldn't do the job for a couple of months but said it's not too hard to DIY.
We thought about Bal Rapidbase as we would ideally like to put the furniture back the same day if possible, the carpet tiles can wait (not ordered yet), just want to get the floor levelled ready.
We've been told the ceramic tiles do not need to be removed, we're hoping that is the case as we'd like a quick and easy job but also want to make sure that it wouldn't be a mistake leaving them down.
Any thoughts, recommendations for a better product, etc.
We had a builder round who said we could carpet tile directly over these ceramic tiles but we're not too keen on that. He's busy and couldn't do the job for a couple of months but said it's not too hard to DIY.
We thought about Bal Rapidbase as we would ideally like to put the furniture back the same day if possible, the carpet tiles can wait (not ordered yet), just want to get the floor levelled ready.
We've been told the ceramic tiles do not need to be removed, we're hoping that is the case as we'd like a quick and easy job but also want to make sure that it wouldn't be a mistake leaving them down.
Any thoughts, recommendations for a better product, etc.
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Comments
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i would use a bit of sand/cement to repair any blown tiles. or maybe id cover the floor in hardboard or chipboard and then lay the carpet tiles.
8x4 hardboard sheet is dirt cheap.Get some gorm.0 -
i would use a bit of sand/cement to repair any blown tiles. or maybe id cover the floor in hardboard or chipboard and then lay the carpet tiles.
8x4 hardboard sheet is dirt cheap.
We did think about hardboard but because the floor is uneven and the skirting board was glued on by builders during recent renovation, we don't have enough depth to lay hardboard or chipboard (we would lose too much of the skirting board) plus the carpet tiles. Was thinking self levelling compound would give us the least depth possible to level the floor.0 -
then take the skirting off and replace it higher up.Get some gorm.0
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Not used it but bal products are usually excellent. Their adhesive are by far the best, so it's likely to be a good product.
Not sure I would be in a rush to put furniture back though. It normally needs time to go off as it is runny.
Personally I would take the tiles up in case the compound doesn't key to it as I would guess they are glazed?
It's also best to see what minimum depth they recommend on the product.0 -
then take the skirting off and replace it higher up.
No can do. Builders used Sticks Like Sh*t and assured us it was on for good. OH is fighting cancer and not well enough to do what could turn out to be a big job, ripping it all off, possibly some of the plasterboard with it, cleaning it up, buying and cutting some more skirting and then painting. Plus as it's part dwarf wall (former conservatory, now sun room) about 15" including skirting board, putting the skirting higher means losing more of the wall. We have to take what must be the easier option which we think will be the levelling. Thanks for the suggestion though, it would work for someone in a position to do it, just not us.0 -
Not used it but bal products are usually excellent. Their adhesive are by far the best, so it's likely to be a good product.
Not sure I would be in a rush to put furniture back though. It normally needs time to go off as it is runny.
Personally I would take the tiles up in case the compound doesn't key to it as I would guess they are glazed?
It's also best to see what minimum depth they recommend on the product.
Thanks. We've checked Bal's website and it seems to be OK depthwise. It says OK to walk on after 90 mins and to tile after 2 to 3 hours but we would probably level in the morning and put furniture back before we go to bed so probably 12 hours.0 -
In that case, go for it.0
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For vinyl and carpet most SLC manufactors state 1-2 days when bonding to the substrate. If you are laying loose then you will be fine but if using a acrylic adhesive then you must wait until all moisture is out of the SLC
I know that Weber floor flex is suitable for going over glazed tiles and it less than £14 a bag at CTDHi, we’ve had to remove your signature. If you’re not sure why please read the forum rules or email the forum team if you’re still unsure0 -
For vinyl and carpet most SLC manufactors state 1-2 days when bonding to the substrate. If you are laying loose then you will be fine but if using a acrylic adhesive then you must wait until all moisture is out of the SLC
I know that Weber floor flex is suitable for going over glazed tiles and it less than £14 a bag at CTD
Thanks, it's useful to know there's another make. Will see what the local shop can get us.
Do you know if it is essential that either this or Bal is mixed with one of those HD electrical mixers that tradesmen have? As this is a DIY job we don't have that equipment.0 -
Thanks, it's useful to know there's another make. Will see what the local shop can get us.
Do you know if it is essential that either this or Bal is mixed with one of those HD electrical mixers that tradesmen have? As this is a DIY job we don't have that equipment.
I use an electric drill with one of these. Does the same job.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-power-paint-mixer/61617?_requestid=210489Eat vegetables and fear no creditors, rather than eat duck and hide.0
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