Can I drive a minibus

Plushchris

Best advice to the OP comes straight off the DVLA website...

Any queries should be directed to the DVLA on 0300 790 6801. Lines are open during the following times:
Driver and Vehicle General lines - Monday to Friday 8.00 am to 7.00 pm; Saturday 8.00 am to 2.00 pm

Thats the best answer, lots of mixed advice being given here...

Gloomendoom

Plushchris wrote: »

I think its all to do with what they class as a minibus, my LandRover is not classed as a minibus but has 12 seats so you can drive it on a normal (Non D1) license.

Isn't it the sub 3.5T GVW that allows a 12 seat Land Rover to be driven without a D1 licence? Even then, all the other requirements would need to be met.

Happychappy

Kua wrote: »

Thanks. That was going to be my next question (how do I obtain a D1?) How much is that likely to cost me?

The Medical can cost £49.00 if you use firms such as Driversmedicals.co.uk or Doctorsonwheels, there are a few cut price firms, your own GP will be around £100

The computer based Theory and Hazard Perception test fee, paid to the DSA costs £50.00 or £35 and £15
The Practical Driving Test fee, paid to the DSA costs £115.00.

On top of this you need to hire a mini bus for the test and a driver to sit with you to get there, plus if you need the practice which I'm sure you will, you need a longer hire.

The driving test is at an LGV/Pcv test centre and includes show me tell me questions and answers.

The current NATIONAL pass rate is in the region of 40%. And for first time candidates, it's even lower!

These are the top ten reasons why people fail their test:

1. OBSERVATIONS AT JUNCTIONS - observations and judgment,
2. REVERSE PARKING - ineffective observations, lack of accuracy,
3. USE OF MIRRORS - not checking or acting on information,
4. REVERSING AROUND A CORNER - ineffective observations or lack of accuracy,
5. INCORRECT USE OF SIGNALS - not canceling or giving misleading signals,
6. MOVING AWAY SAFELY - ineffective observations,
7. INCORRECT POSITIONING ON THE ROAD - at roundabouts or bends,
8. LACK OF STEERING CONTROL - steering to early or leaving too late,
9. INCORRECT POSITIONING TO TURN RIGHT- at junctions or one way streets,
10. INAPPROPRIATE SPEED - traveling too slowly or being hesitant.

Therefore, take enough driving lessons and get lots of practice if you want to pass first time.

The Practical Driving Test lasts approximately 35 minutes and is conducted from your local driving test centre by a DSA examiner. When you go to take your Practical or Theory Test, you will need to bring your driving licence or some other acceptable proof of identity that bears your name, photograph and signature.

You will be required to sign your test form, after which you will walk outside with the driving examiner and be given an eye sight test (by reading a number plate). You will then walk to the car where you will be asked two of the 'TELL ME SHOW ME' questions. If you are not using your driving instructor's car for the test, you will then need to bring a valid insurance certificate for the car you will be using.

The driving examiner will assess your ability to drive competently and safely, and will test you on most of the topics you should have covered in your driving lessons.

You will be required to drive along one of the test routes which are designed to be as uniform as possible and to include a range of typical road and traffic conditions. You will fail the test if you commit a serious or a dangerous fault during the test drive. You can also fail if you commit more than 15 driving faults altogether.

'SHOW ME TELL ME' Questions
At the start of your practical test, the examiner will ask you one of each of the following:
an explanation of how you would carry out certain safety checks,

a demonstration on how you would carry out certain safety checks. You will need to open the bonnet of the vehicle for some of these checks.

To that end, you will be asked two questions from the following

Q1) Show me how you would check that the direction indicators are working.

A. Apply the indicators or hazard warning switch and check functioning of all indicators. (ou may need to switch ignition on, prompt not to start engine)

TIP Most cars will not need to have the ignition switched on to activate the hazard switch, so it should be simple to lean into the car, switch it on, walk around the car checking all 4 main indicators (there are also indicators on the front wings and/or the door mirrors), and then lean into the car to switch off the hazard switch.

Q2) Show me how you would check that the brake lights are working on this car. (I can assist you, if you need to switch the ignition on, please don't start the engine)

A. Operate brake pedal, make use of reflections in windows, garage doors, etc, or ask someone to help. (you may need to switch ignition on, but do not start engine)

Q3) Show me/explain how you would check that the power assisted steering is working before starting a journey.

A. If the steering becomes heavy the system may not be working properly. Before starting a journey two simple checks can be made. Gentle pressure on the steering wheel, maintained while the engine is started, should result in a slight but noticeable movement as the system begins to operate. Alternatively turning the steering wheel just after moving off will give an immediate indication that the power assistance is functioning.

Q4) Show me how you would check the parking brake (handbrake) for excessive wear, make sure you keep safe control of the vehicle.

A. Apply footbrake firmly. Demonstrate by applying parking brake (handbrake) so that when it is fully applied it secures itself, and is not at the end of the working travel.

TIP Keep the button pressed in when applying the handbrake so that you do not hear the ratchet noise.

Q5) (Show me) Open the bonnet, identify where you would check the engine oil level and tell me how you would check that the engine has sufficient oil.

A. Identify dipstick/oil level indicator, describe check of oil level against the minimum/maximum markers.

TIP You will have to open the bonnet, but then just point to the dipstick, and describe pulling it out to check the level. Different cars have different min/max markers - they could have lines or rings. People usually wait for the engine to be stopped for a while before checking the oil level (on level ground), pull out the dipstick, wipe it on a cloth, re-insert it, and then pull it out once more to check the level.

Q6) (Show me) Open the bonnet, identify where you would check the engine coolant level and tell me how you would check that the engine has the correct level.

A. Identify high/low level markings on header tank where fitted or radiator filler cap, and describe how to top up to correct level.

TIP- You should always wait for the engine to cool down before opening the header tank cap or the radiator cap. This is because the cooling system is pressurised, and although the normal running temperature of an engine is around 80c (very hot), it can rise to above boiling point.

Q7) (Show me) Open the bonnet, identify where the brake fluid reservoir is and tell me how you would check that you have a safe level of hydraulic brake fluid.

A. Identify reservoir, check level against high/low markings.

TIP If and when you do top up with brake fluid, be very careful as brake fluid can cause serious damage to paintwork on the car.

Q9) Show me how you would check that the horn is working (off road only).

A. Check is carried out by using control usually on steering wheel. (turn on ignition if necessary).

Q10) Show me how you would clean the windscreen using the windscreen washer and wipers.

A. Operate control to wash and wipe windscreen (turn ignition on if necessary).

Q11) Show me how you would set the demister controls to clear all the windows effectively, this should include both front and rear screens.

A. Set all relevant controls including; fan, temperature, air direction/source and heated screen to clear windscreen and windows. Engine does not have to be started for this demonstration.

TIP Front air direction should be set to demist - usually this looks like a windscreen with 'wavey' lines on it, temperature to warm or hot - usually red, and fan speed should be set to medium or high - often cars have numbers 0-5. Rear demist will be a button usually in the centre of the dashboard. Air conditioning can be used to good effect for demisting the windscreen in the winter as the air is dryer.

Q12) Show me how you would switch on the rear fog light(s) and explain when you would use it/them. (No need to exit vehicle)

A. Operate switch (turn on dipped headlights and ignition if necessary). Check warning light is on. Explain use.

TIP Rear foglight should be used when visibility is seriously reduced. It must be switched off as soon as visibility is improved to avoid dazzling other drivers, especially at night.

Q13) Show me how you switch your headlight from dipped to main beam and explain how you would know the main beam is on whilst inside the car.

A. Operate switch (with ignition or engine on if necessary), check with main beam warning light.

TIP Main beam warning light will be a blue light usually close to the main instruments.

Q14) Tell me how you would check that the brakes are working before starting a journey.

A. Brakes should not feel spongy or slack. Brakes should be tested as you set off. Vehicle should not pull to one side.

TIP Spongey brakes are caused by air in the hydraulic system, and the brakes should be bled immediately, and the cause of air ingress investigated. Pulling brakes may be caused by one brake being faulty (usually seized) which results in the effect of the 'good' brake pulling the car to one side.

Q15) Tell Me where the windscreen washer reservoir is and tell me how you would check the windscreen washer level.

A. Identify reservoir and explain how to check level.

TIP On some cars you can see the level in the bottle, but on many the bottle is concealed, and all that you can see is the filler neck. In this case you could say that you would open the filler cap and look dow for a level or just try topping up the bottle with screenwash/water.

Q16) Tell me where you would find the information for the recommended tyre pressures for this car and how tyre pressures should be checked.

A. Manufacturer’s guide, use a reliable pressure gauge, check and adjust pressures when tyres are cold, don’t forget spare tyre, remember to refit valve caps.

Q17) Tell me how you make sure your head restraint is correctly adjusted so it provides the best protection in the event of a crash.

A. The head restraint should be adjusted so the rigid part of the head restraint is at least as high as the eye or top of the ears, and as close to the back of the head as is comfortable. N.B. Some restraints might not be adjustable.

Q18) Tell me how you would check the tyres to ensure that they have sufficient tread depth and that their general condition is safe to use on the road.

A. No cuts and bulges, 1.6mm of tread depth across the central ¾ of the breadth of the tyre and around the entire outer circumference.

Q19) Tell me how you would check that the headlights & tail lights are working. (No need to exit vehicle)

A. Operate switch (turn on ignition if necessary), then walk round vehicle. (As this is a "Tell Me" question, there is no need to physically check the lights)

Q20) Tell me how you would know if there was a problem with your anti-lock braking system.

A. A warning light should illuminate if there is a fault with the anti-lock braking system.

After The Test
Straight after the exam, the driving examiner will inform you whether you've passed or not.

If you failed, you will be told why. You will then have the option of reapplying straight away, but you will need to wait at least 10 working days before being able to retake the test.

Best of luck, and yes you need to follow this route for general mini bus driving and to obtain a D1 licence after 1/1/97

bigjl

wba31 wrote: »

plus you'll need a minibus to take the test in? you cant hire one, as you dont have a D1 licence, so maybe need to borrow one?

what a !!!!!!!g joke... I'm in the same boat as you...

You go on a C1/D1 course, simples, they provide the vehicle, which won't be a minibus in most cases anyway.

The Uni students and those that want to join the Ambulance service without the C1/D1 requirement have to ait these courses, probably several hundred every year have to do so as a requirement.

Private Ambulance firms simply use vehicles rated at less than 3.5 tonnes, such as the Renault Master.

There is no specific test for a minibus, all the people that I know sat the test simply did one test that allowed them to drive all vehicles in the C1/D1 catagory.

Having never had to sit it I don't know the ins and outs, but an old crewmate moved to the UK from SA and had to sit his C1/D1, he sat it in a 7.5 tonne curtainside, despite him having a HGV licence in SA, as he was ex SA fire brigade and they have those huge ex American firetrucks.


The average cost for the appropriate course, vehicle hire, tuition and all tests when bought as a package, seems to be around £750 or £1000.

Flyboy152

Happychappy wrote: »

The Medical can cost £49.00 if you use firms such as Driversmedicals.co.uk or Doctorsonwheels, there are a few cut price firms, your own GP will be around £100

The computer based Theory and Hazard Perception test fee, paid to the DSA costs £50.00 or £35 and £15
The Practical Driving Test fee, paid to the DSA costs £115.00.

On top of this you need to hire a mini bus for the test and a driver to sit with you to get there, plus if you need the practice which I'm sure you will, you need a longer hire.

The driving test is at an LGV/Pcv test centre and includes show me tell me questions and answers.

The current NATIONAL pass rate is in the region of 40%. And for first time candidates, it's even lower!

These are the top ten reasons why people fail their test:

1. OBSERVATIONS AT JUNCTIONS - observations and judgment,
2. REVERSE PARKING - ineffective observations, lack of accuracy,
3. USE OF MIRRORS - not checking or acting on information,
4. REVERSING AROUND A CORNER - ineffective observations or lack of accuracy,
5. INCORRECT USE OF SIGNALS - not canceling or giving misleading signals,
6. MOVING AWAY SAFELY - ineffective observations,
7. INCORRECT POSITIONING ON THE ROAD - at roundabouts or bends,
8. LACK OF STEERING CONTROL - steering to early or leaving too late,
9. INCORRECT POSITIONING TO TURN RIGHT- at junctions or one way streets,
10. INAPPROPRIATE SPEED - traveling too slowly or being hesitant.

Therefore, take enough driving lessons and get lots of practice if you want to pass first time.

<snip>

After The Test
Straight after the exam, the driving examiner will inform you whether you've passed or not.

If you failed, you will be told why. You will then have the option of reapplying straight away, but you will need to wait at least 10 working days before being able to retake the test.

Best of luck, and yes you need to follow this route for general mini bus driving and to obtain a D1 licence after 1/1/97

It might have been better to have just posted the link.

Hammyman

mikey72 wrote: »

http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/Motoring/DriverLicensing/WhatCanYouDriveAndYourObligations/DG_4022619

That website is wrong. It states you must be over 21 to drive a vehicle over 7.5 tonnes. That age limit was lowered to 18 over a year ago.

jase1

Flyboy152 wrote: »

It might have been better to have just posted the link.

It might have been better to have snipped the quote somewhat more

Mustard_Dave

Hammyman wrote: »

That website is wrong. It states you must be over 21 to drive a vehicle over 7.5 tonnes. That age limit was lowered to 18 over a year ago.

The site relates to driving on a car licence. You can drive at 18 if you complete the Driver Certificate of Professional Competence. If you do not have the CPC, you must be 21.