Trouble switching electric shower on - help??

weekendwarrior

24_hour_sparks wrote:

i can confirm being a registered installer, a replacement fisture or fitting does not fall under the scope of part p, yet anouther common misconception to confuse the public me thinks.

If you look at who is doing the confusing it is the people responsible for part p, firstly the Odpm was responsible and they kept changing the damn rules and then you have the NICEIC website that has plenty of misleading and incorrect information on it.

Here is a perfect example of the NICEIC website-

In kitchens and areas of increased risk, such as a bathroom or shower room, a garden or a swimming pool or sauna, all work, minor or not, will need either to be self-certified or notified.

Taken from here- http://www.niceic.org.uk/partp/partpqs.html


Under the new law, homeowners are still able to replace accessories such as light switches and sockets to an existing circuit, although there are exceptions for locations such as kitchens and bathrooms.

Taken from here- http://www.niceic.org.uk/partp/newsitemjan052.html

Is it any wonder that people are confused as to what they can or cannot legaly do?

Cypher

I haven't used an electric shower in decades, but would the electric being off stop water coming out of the shower I know when I lived at home with my parents the shower did still work when the isolation switch was off you just got very cold. In fact as the switch was outside the bathroom we would always mess about and switch it off on people having a shower So maybe the shower makers have fitted an additional valve these days.

A water flow problem would also cause the shower not to work although the light on the isolation switch does suggest an electrical problem but as I mentioned above I would expect water to come out when you open the valve or am I wrong.

baldelectrician

sounds like the switch. You may find the connections burnt on the cables at the switch.

Make sure you use a decent make of switch, I prefer GET switches as they are rated at 45A, and take the regular use in their stride. MK are also OK but have went downhill recently.

I'm not going to tell you to get someone in as you probably realise that.

As a ballpark figure you should pay less than £45-£50 to get someone in and replace the switch - including supplying a new switch.

Lychee

baldelectrician wrote:

sounds like the switch. You may find the connections burnt on the cables at the switch.

Make sure you use a decent make of switch, I prefer GET switches as they are rated at 45A, and take the regular use in their stride. MK are also OK but have went downhill recently.

I'm not going to tell you to get someone in as you probably realise that.

As a ballpark figure you should pay less than £45-£50 to get someone in and replace the switch - including supplying a new switch.

wow, thanks everyone. Never heard of 'Part P' but it'll probably confuse me anyhow.

Thanks for the ballpark figure, that's always very useful to know! If something is burnt, will I smell anything?

We unscrewed the little white box but screwed it right back :P Pity my dad isn't in the country, he's an electrician!


Many thanks everyone.